Upgrading WMS BB2 to BB3. Powering the CPU

[sakwilla]

Hey all.
Just a quick question - tried searching through the forum but couldnt find anything. I have bought an upgraded CPU and harness to upgrade one of my BB2s to a BB3. Just wanted to know where do I plug the harness to power the CPU? Not sure where on the board to power it up and dont want to short circuit it. Thanks in advance for any help offered.

[rickhunter]

Unplug J9 (the top right molex connector) and then you connect the other power harness and piggyback the cable that was on J9 on top of the power harness (it should have a passthrough connector).

[sakwilla]

Thanks Rick, not having much luck. There are labels for the three plugs

the smaller 1 - CPU i plugged to the right of the new cpu
the other two plugs are exactly the same

1 says P/s which i assume is power source? So i plugged that in J9

I am left with the plug that I originally pulled out of J9 does this supposed to go somewhere?
Plus there is a thurd plug on the harness called B/H?

Not sure what to do - any help is appreciated Photo attached too.

[sakwilla]

I also tried - smaller 1 in cpu, one of the larger ones into J9 and then pulled out the similar plug attached to the power unit and plugged the final plug of the harness directly to the power box. It seemed to work and the screen loaded and then got this message. I assume that the original plug attached to J9 or the original plug I pulled out of the power box has something to do with it?

Sorry in advance I have tried youtube google to sort this out :S Any help appreciated. Added a photo to help too

[sakwilla]

I guess no one wants to help - all good!

I found an old WMS cable that had the connections attached that are needed for the cpu. I plugged the small one onto the side of the cpu, pulled out the cord in j9 and plugged the new harness one in its place. I then reconnected the original plug in j9 into a female outlet on the harness. I powered it on then and all seemed to work fine. Was able to set up the games and then get errors for every game i install.

I have a few Multi games and they come up with the error "Cabinet type not allowed for this game"
I then tried Willy Wonka and set it up and all seemed to work and then before the final load got a call attendant error that stated "Failed to dereference"

Im tearing out what little hair I have left trying to sort this out. Are there any simple solutions to fix these? Even if i can just play WIlly Wonka I am happy with that if i can clear this dereference error?

[T]

I guess no one wants to help - all good!

I found an old WMS cable that had the connections attached that are needed for the cpu. I plugged the small one onto the side of the cpu, pulled out the cord in j9 and plugged the new harness one in its place. I then reconnected the original plug in j9 into a female outlet on the harness. I powered it on then and all seemed to work fine. Was able to set up the games and then get errors for every game i install.

I have a few Multi games and they come up with the error "Cabinet type not allowed for this game"
I then tried Willy Wonka and set it up and all seemed to work and then before the final load got a call attendant error that stated "Failed to dereference"

Im tearing out what little hair I have left trying to sort this out. Are there any simple solutions to fix these? Even if i can just play WIlly Wonka I am happy with that if i can clear this dereference error?

I am sure people on this Forum are happy to help if possible. That is my issue with helping. I have a BB1 to BB2 Conversion but can play quite a few BB3 Games. My machine is different than yours. I don't have a BB2 Power Supply. I have 2 BB1 power supplies in cabinet. One that runs the regular stuff on machine and the other powers the BB3 CPU. So, wish I could help but don't have anything that will help you. Hope you get it sorted.

[sakwilla]

Thanks for replying.

Checked on Facebook too and apparently it needs an Emotive Controller to clear the cabinet issue - is this true as will sort one out?

[iramack]

Yes you need emotive controller to run NXT3 cpu/games.

SM

[T]

Thanks for replying.

Checked on Facebook too and apparently it needs an Emotive Controller to clear the cabinet issue - is this true as will sort one out?

Good find on the Emotive Controller. Iramack is right. I had to do that also. There is a way to bypass it
on the Power Distribution board. I would never do that myself. Way to easy to simply Install the Emotive
Controller. Hope that fixes you

[sccarlso]

The cabinet ID can be changed without too much effort.

I upgraded my BB2E to an NXT3.2 CPU, but as a BB2E already has an emotive light controller, that wasn’t a problem.  Not sure if that will actually be a problem with all games though.  But I still had to do a cabinet ID change for things to work right.

There is also a post on the boards here with a jumper mod to bypass the emotive light controller check on an NXT3.2 upgraded BB2 machine.  I didn’t need to do that part so I didn’t research it further, but it can be done so a game that won't run if it doesn't see that controller will run. 

But here’s what I did.

You can address the cabinet ID error by clipping a wire on J10, and adding a jumper wire on J14 to change the cabinet ID on your machine.  And it’s easily undone if you ever need to or if you need or want to try other cabinet ID’s.  I got this information from other posts here on NLG.  And it worked for me.

To do this on a BB2, there is a connector labeled J10 on the backplane with a jumper wire you should clip on a BB2 if you upgrade to an NXT3.2 CPU.   If you cut the clear tape holding the wires together, you’ll find that the wire on pin 10 and 12 connect them to each other. 

Those two wires are jumpered to each other on a BB2, but not on a Blade cabinet.  The wire colors can vary.  But they are the last two on the top row of J10 on the backplane.  Which are pins 10 and 12.  In the pic have a blue/orange striped wire and the wire is clipped as you can see.  But the wires on your machine may not be the same color.   

Make sure you're totally unplugged.  Cut the clear tape so the wires to that connector are loose, and you can verify the wire between pins 10 and 12 are indeed jumpered to each other.  And just clip the wire in the middle of it.  The jumper is now disconnected, but it is also easy to reconnect them should you ever need to if you put an NXT2 CPU back in.  For a Blade cabinet, there should be nothing jumping or connected to pins 9-12 on J10.

Now to deal with the other jumper.  Which is located on connector J14.  Which should have nothing connected to it currently.  This is where a static button deck connects to, but you have an OLED button deck which is USB, so nothing should be connected to J14. 

From previous posts, the pins that change the cabinet ID when grounded on J14 are as below.

On J14

Pin 3 to ground makes Gamefield
Pin 4 to ground makes GFxDv1
Pin 5 to ground makes Blade .. (not sure if it is Blade1 or Blade2)

When the listed pin is grounded (or jumpered to another pin on J14 that is a ground pin), it changes the cabinet ID to the one listed.  I tested a few times grounding different jumpers, it didn’t hurt anything, and in the end, jumpering the listed pin to ground fixed it up!  In my case I needed the cabinet ID to be Gamefield.  And grounding pin 3 on J14 did just that.

So for Blade (NXT3.2), you want to ground Pin 5 on J14.   You can either ground it, or you can jumper pin 5 to pin 10, which also grounds pin 5.  I needed pin 3 grounded for it to have a cabinet ID for Gamefield, so I grounded pin 3. 

The connector J14 has male pins in it.  So you need a female molex minifit jr pin connector to grab onto the pin inside the connector on the backplane. 

I just found breadboard wire and used that, as it had a center hole that fit snug around the male pin inside the male pin 3 in J14 and grounded the other end.   And that did the trick. 

Any pin connector with a center hole will work, if it’s a little too large to grab onto the pin inside pin 5 on J14, just crimp it a little so it holds onto the pin inside J14.  It just needs to maintain contact.

So for your case.  I would clip the jumper wire on J10 that connects pin 10 and 12.

And I would ground pin 5 on connector J14.  (You can jumper it to pin 10…but only if you happen to have the exact female pin connectors).  If you just ground it, you only need to find one connector (or any kind really) that will grab onto the pin inside pin 5, and ground the other end with a simple alligator clip or directly to a screw on the chassis of the machine.

If this is done and pin 5 on J14 is grounded.  Your machine should now have a cabinet ID indicating it’s a Blade machine (NXT3.2).   

Pic of the wire cut on J10, and a jumper between pin 5 and pin 10 on J14 is in the pic.   (while the jumper wire to pin 5 and 10 on J14 are red and black, they are indeed just connected to each other)

But you can also just ground pin 5 instead of connecting it to pin 10, and you should get the same result of it having a cabinet ID of a Blade machine.  I’d do this on any BB2 that’s upgraded with an NXT3.2 CPU.   But some games just don’t care, like Willy Wonka.  That game loaded/ran with none of these changes.  It also ran fine after the jumper changes.  But games that report the cabinet ID error should no longer display that error if the jumpers are connected like this.

It’s fairly easy to do.  Hardest part was finding a pin connector on hand that would grab onto the pin inside J14!  lol   But once I had something that would grab on, no problems.

Good luck! 

[sakwilla]

Thank you so much for your reply, will give it a go and let you know. Appreciate the replies.