1948 Bally Triple Bell, accepted coins, now nothing

[Dirty70Bird]

New to me machine, was working mostly fine and was paying out. I took reels out to fix my positioning issue, then plugged it back in and the coin mechanisms are now disabled. I can manually trip realys, I can also make certain mechanisms work by doing so. It's hard to troubleshoot this without an electrical schematic. Does anyone have any ideas where to start?

[wolftalk]

huh ... looks like I never processed/posted the docs for that game.

I'll do a quick file size reduction and put the results in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/

look for a "triple bell (console)" folder.

the files will likely still be huge, and I have a couple versions of the schem and 3 manual pages.  I'll try and get them all posted by tomorrow.

anyway, often the issue is the jones plugs after you've pull them.  Yank them again and clean the black crud off the pins, the squeeze hard along the lengths of the sockets bending in the outer tabs.   You want it to take some oomph to seat the plugs so it scrapes the sockets clean on insertion.

[Dirty70Bird]

Thank you so much! I'm sure the manuals will really help!  I did recently remove those plugs, but it was working before and after that.

[wolftalk]

btw, if you want the paper schematics/manual pages, I don't need the ones I have. 

if you are in the usa (or elsewhere and don't mind the postage), pm me or email me at slotpics@cdyn.com and I'll see if I can find them.    They may be at the pacific pinball museum ... but they don't need them either :-)

the files are on the above site now.  Looks like cleaning up the schematics is a many hour job, and I probably won't get to it anytime soon.  If you want to take a shot at it, I put the source png files there also.  If you just want to look at the schems, I made pdfs of partially processed files to get a reasonable size.
 

[Dirty70Bird]

Thank you so much, I just sent you an email

[Dirty70Bird]

I've cleaned up the big Jones plugs, I started checking leave contacts for normally open and closed. Those continuity test as they are supposed too. Any other ideas?

[wolftalk]

continuity meaning almost zero ohms or just a buzzer/light?

problem with continuity is a lot of meters will treat anything lower than around 35 ohms have continuity.   Many coils and the transformer has lower resistance that that, so a buzzer going off could mean you have a roundabout circuit path thru other devices.

I think the paperwork is at the pacific pinball museum, so I'll look monday.  Hopefully nobody moved things.

wrt what the game is actually doing ... are the coins being rejected back out the return or is the game eating them but nothing happens?

if the coins are rejecting, what happens if you toggle the coin switches? 

[Dirty70Bird]

The coins just fall through to the reject chute, the coin acceptance lights don't go on either. I don't hear any buzzing at the coin mechs either. It's like there is no voltage going to them. I have checked fuses. I'll look at wires on the schematic next

[wolftalk]

the coils controlling the coin rejection are called "coin lockout magnet #1-#3" on the schematic int he "replay subtract .." section (middle area).

manually pushing the coin switch down and releasing will narrow the problem down.

if you have a voltmeter and stick on probe on the orange wire on a coin switch and poke the brown/white wire on any of the coin lockout magnet coils and don't see 50VAC, it's probably either the front door connector plug pin BH or reel mech switch #6.

if the coin/credit relays are all unpowered, the only other thing it could be is a reset control relay (that relay should be unpowered), reel mech switch #7 (also unpowered).

if the anti-cheat relay is unpowered, push the armature plate down onto the coil top.  If it doesn't stay there, the 50V fuse is broken or the fuse clip is weak/cracked/broken.  The fuse holders on bally games eventually fatigue and don't hold the fuse snugly.  If you remove the fuse and bend in the clips and they move easily or fall off, you needed to replace the fuse holder anyway.

[DavidLee]

Since the last thing you did was to reinstall the reels chassis.
I would inspect the beau-plugs pins and receivers.
Possibly one or the other is being pushed back.
Check all wiring on the left side of the reels.
In some cases these wires will get caught on protruding parts on the interior metal case.
Thus causing one to break from its connection.
Also, the coin relay stack switches. Handling the chassis in some cases,  parts get knocked out of alignment. This happens more often on pinball machines when raising the play field.
Wouldn’t hurt to check the handle release mechanism and wiring.

[Dirty70Bird]

I checked the anti cheat relay, if I push to close it, the coil pulls it in and stays there. I didn't have a chance to put more time into it today.

[Dirty70Bird]

I figured it out, reel mech switch 6 and 7 are supposed to be normally closed. Clean them up with a burnishing tool, bent them correctly, and it works as good as it did before.

[DavidLee]

Post a picture where the correction was made.
As it may help others in the future.