WHAT I LEARNED TODAY

[RiseLikeRa]

The group knows that I am a nut when it comes to lights working properly and such.  I started a thread about putting a dab of solder on the center contact of the #47 bulbs commonly found in the head unit. That method has worked on 99% of those flickering and dim light situations.  When I went to investigate a dim #47 bulb I pulled the head unit out and noticed that the whole light "fixture"  was held in place by a thin plate gray of bake lite.  This served as an insulation and support of the whole socket.  Mine was cracked in the middle and therefore no matter what I did I could not get full pressure on the center contact of the bulb. 


What to do?  Since I do not have a donor machine I used a piece of a wooden shim to hold up and insulate the socket.  All works fine and the bulb is now bright as the north star.


I know that I am not as clear as I usually am however IF you have bulb issues check that insulating backing for cracks.  That (item pictured) may be the source of your consternation.


Happy Holidays again.


Ra

[rokgpsman]

That's a good solution to your problem, glad to hear you got it going again. Sometimes I think it's amazing that these decades-old parts last as long as they do. Maybe they did build things more solidly in the old days.  Today it seems like many things are engineered quality-wise to just last long enough to get past the warranty date.

[RiseLikeRa]

I am constantly amazed at how many parts are in one of these machines.  I wonder if that is known. 


I am also amazed how one small piece can bring the whole show to a screeching halt. 


When its all said and done I love the EMs.  This time of year I have my mom, dad and the in laws playing to the wee hours of the morning.  It makes all of the parts hunting, soldering, and cursing during the rest of the year worth while.  To see these elders, with dirty hands, having a grand ole time is priceless.  Thanks to the NLG family for helping me breathe new life into my old games.


Ra