WMS OLED Big Button "STUCK"

[coolwavepic]

So my BIG button seems "stuck" halfway pressed. In the past, I would tap it a few times and it would be fine. I took the panel out and cleaned up the dust, etc and it made no difference. Looking at it, I am not clear what actually tells the machine a button is pressed.

Another weird problem, when in Diag mode, the button press from 0 to 1 looks normal. So I am at a loss of what the problem is.

Anyone who services these all the time know what the problem is?

Oh, this is the older OLED panel thats easy to press... Love these older ones compared to the Carpal tunnel  version

[dragster73]

It this a splash deck?

[coolwavepic]

No Its the first gen version

[Stayouttadabunker]

These buttons have little black plastic flags at both ends that close OFF the optic beams.
When you push down on the cap, flags go down below about a 1/4" to clear and OPEN the optic beams - to signal back to the MPU that a button is pushed.
Often, one of the spring-loaded legs are broken, thereby causing a flag to block an optic beam...so sometimes it works, or times no.
People bang on that Repeat/MAX bet too hard.
The four legs are positioned directly underneath 4 molded flat corners of the clear lense cap.
You cans see the left optic flag between the two left legs pretty clearly.
You may need to take it apart and see if any of the legs are broken.
Unfortunately, I haven't found anyone that makes replacement actuators at all.

Strange that yours works in the tests tho...IDK why? 
Here's a drawing I made of one that I have with a broken leg I drew in red...>>>

[coolwavepic]

OK I will  take another look. I didnt see any broken legs and didnt know about those "flags". I was thinking there was something special about the bottom legs and that it would activate something in the PCB board as the legs go through the holes. The flags make much more sense now. I'll report back.

If the flag is broken, can a little plastic glued on piece fix that?

[Stayouttadabunker]

Yes..I doubt any of those flags are broken...a higher chance it's one of those skinny legs.
You could glue anything back the same size of the flag on the other side...it's just to block optic infrared beams...but not those little legs.
Some actuator legs were made with metal legs instead of the molded black plastic ones too.

As you take apart the button, make sure you get the circuit board pulled straight up...
I work it upwards with a bent screwdriver - kind of like removing a chip from a socket.
The button deck cover does NOT need all those screws when you put it back together...that's overkill.
Sort of like all the screws they use on IGT G23 LCD monitors.
I just use five screws when putting them back together - they're crazy.