s2000 power supply repair

[puckhead]

i have an s2000 with a bad power supply, . one from another of my machines works. ive repaired many different power supplies in my day, but cant even get this one apart.  with the screws out, it wiggles in the cage and looks like it has to slide out. it literally looks like the cage was built around it. anyone ever repair one of these ?

do they have fuses in them? its a 504 board, no mini fuses, and i dont see a single fuse in the entire game.

if they arent repairable, anyone have one for sale?

thanks

[puckhead]

i got it apart, it was just kind of stuck. it has a fuse,  i'm testing it now

[puckhead]

6 amp fuse blown.   googling , it looks to be fast blow.  gonna change it, and see what happens

[RB]

Give it  a good visual inspection while you have it apart. Many times you will find swollen capacitors on the PCB.

[puckhead]

no bulging caps. i put a new fuse in and it blew right away, you could see the flash thru the cage.  i'll putz around with it , but in the meantime i'll need a replacement.  anybody have one?

thanks

[RB]

Rudy's shows to have a couple in stock. Roz has them listed but if you add to cart, it shows out of stock. Other members/vendors here may have them as well. Try raz410, rjpohl (Samron slots), Jim (Midwest Slots) just to name a few. Hopefully someone will respond to your post. Consider placing a WTB in the classifieds.

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=864

[puckhead]

i ordered one from rudys. thanks

[puckhead]

looking for s2000 power supply schematic and pin outs.  went thru the file system , downloaded some files, but didnt see what i need.   anyone have them?

thanks

[brianfink]

I don't have schematics for them but I can tell you there are a few different models used in the s2000. In the past I would just buy a cap kit from happ and replace all the capps. 

[Ron (r273)]

For what it's worth here are some info from Randy Fromm a few years back. Don't know if this will even help.

Win-Tact Magic Bullet

OK, despite the fact that Slot Tech Magazine has written a feature article on this supply and that the other responders are absolutely correct about the bad capacitors in this power supply, I have some news about repairing this supply that may astound you.

Let me say from the outset that in order to bring the power supply up to full specs for hold-up time (the time between the initial loss of AC input and when the outputs drop out) all of the big output capacitors likely have to be changed. Generally speaking, they will be visibly bad with their domed tops.

HOWEVER, bad output filter capacitors is not what kills the slot machine. Even if the +24 and +13 volt outputs are full of ripple, they are not being used by circuits that care. The florescent lamps don't mind the ripple and there is on-board regulation for the CPU that eliminates any ripple. You can leave all the domed output filter capacitors (2200 and 6800 microfarad) in situ and they do not affect the normal operation of the slot machine.

Likewise, while replacing all of the caps on the CTR2 PCB does fix the problem discussed in the Slot Tech Magazine article (the 13 volt square wave output from pin 7 is missing) There is a far easier solution to this problem. I present this solution as a way to make the slot machine work, not as a technique for refurbishing the power supply, which requires the replacement of virtually all electrolytic capacitors, some 24 in all as I recall.

Replace capacitor C50. 100 microfarad, 25 volts. That's all. This is the filter capacitor for an internal power supply that powers the ICs and other control circuitry in the power supply. This is the reason that nothing else works on the CTR2 PCB. Now, why replacing all the CTR2 caps accomplishes the same thing I cannot say as I haven't bothered to research it but I can report to you with great confidence that replacing C50 alone repairs almost all of them.

Just for fun, I challenged myself to see how fast I could possibly make this repair. I opened the case, yanked out the cap with a pair of pliers, leaving the leads sticking up and tacked the replacement cap in from the top by soldering it to the old leads. The entire repair took less than five minutes! Of course, I don't recommend this. It was just for fun (yes, I am a nerd). You should pull the PCB out and replace it properly but even at that, it takes just 10 minutes from start to finish. That's better than the hour it requires to replace all of the caps.

Is this unprofessional (leaving in place components you know to be bad)? Arguably, yes it is. I will tell you that it works and leave the rest up to you. It reduces the repair from one hour labor cost plus $10-13 in parts to 10 minutes labor and 15 cents. I have made this repair dozens of times now. Only one required further cap replacement.

Randy Fromm

Ron (r273)

[puckhead]

i found the hi power switching transistor FM10SM-18a is shorted.  not easy to find, digikey, mouser, jameco , and two local guys dont have it. i ordered one from the UK on ebay , wont have it for a good two weeks.