Author Topic: Bally e 1000 Tests good but (Read 24807 times)

dhellis · « **Reply #40 on:** June 23, 2016, 10:46:36 am »

Quote from: kingjim on June 23, 2016, 10:38:35 am

I thank you both for the battery information. I was hoping it was right. I did take off the battery board last night and cleaned all the holes. I got up this morning plugged it in and everything looks just like it always have but it will not test anymore. It just stays at 500000. No testing at all. Thought maybe I left something in one of the little holes so cleaned them again, this time I used Dr. Fresh Floss Picks. They work great. Fit perfect but still no tests.

A code of 500000 is an indication that there is no communications to the IO board so I would double check the ribbon cable
and make sure that you got it plugged in correctly. One would normally expect to see 50 000

kingjim · « **Reply #41 on:** June 23, 2016, 12:00:45 pm »

OK. New life. I unplugged every plug in the machine and plugged them back in one at a time again. In doing so I found a tiny green wire was broken off of one of the reel molex. Soldered it. Turned it on. Everything works as it did before on all the tests but now all I get when I turn it on is a
bbbbb6. I reset with the reset key and I get bbbbb0. All looks good but still no insert coin light and still will not accept coins. The insert coin light and coin accepted light come on during tests.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #42 on:** June 23, 2016, 12:48:12 pm »

The garbled display I'm not sure about that is showing the b. . But the 6 at the end, is an error that is usually power issue related to the power supply and the molex connector at the power supply . Cleaning metal connectors with a plastic floss stick will not work.

kingjim · « **Reply #43 on:** June 23, 2016, 12:58:28 pm »

As I said I cleaned them with a wire last night I just re done it today. Thanks for the code 6 tip. It could be a week power supply, will look into that next.

kingjim · « **Reply #44 on:** June 24, 2016, 11:00:59 am »

OK, I changed out the power board. It is a used one but maybe what is happening now will be of help to see if I need a new one or something else.
Now all the lights work that weren't before. All the tests are still good. It even let me play it one time yesterday but not again. Every time I turn it on now the same thing happens so at least it is going forward.
When I turn it on and close the door I get a 2.bbbbb. I turn the reset key and it goes to 5bbbbb. I turn it again and it goes to bbbbb6. One more turn and it gets to bbbbb0. That is every time, same thing. Thanks.

Amechanic · « **Reply #45 on:** June 24, 2016, 11:27:10 am »

Are you using the reset key on the right side of the machine under the handle? That key is used with the door closed to get into you book keeping. If your machine tilts or has some other code, you need to reset the machine by using the two hopper board buttons. Push the left one then the right one. You should hear all the machines solenoids cycle and you should see 50 000 in the win meter. What does your win meter read after you play it one time? If it stops playing or tilts you should see a code number in the meter. That's the machine telling you what's wrong. Anything else sounds like a bad connection or board failing.

Gary

kingjim · « **Reply #46 on:** June 24, 2016, 11:49:43 am »

It only let me play it once so I can't go back there however I think we found the problem. Possibly a short I don't know yet but this machine will not do anything until it is reset 4 times with the reset key after that everything tests good. Just turning it on the reset button and the test button are dead until it is reset with the key. This may be a good one to dissect for parts since all the parts work but don't play well together. Thanks again.

dhellis · « **Reply #47 on:** June 24, 2016, 02:22:30 pm »

Just a thought but there is a 33 mfd capacitor sitting next to the yellow relay on the side of the MPU
board.

I have had many weird issues caused but this capacitor, or even the relay being bad. Both of these
components sit in the reset circuitry. The relays can be hard to find, but the capacitor (C3) should
be easy to replace.

You might want to try that and then perhaps jumper across the relay temporarily to see if that changes
anything for you

kingjim · « **Reply #48 on:** June 24, 2016, 03:29:38 pm »

I thought having to use that key reset was wrong but it was the only thing that let the machine work. I disconnected the wires from the key switch in case that was the problem. That may have been it. Almost there. Now I turn on the machine and get 50 000, door open. All test are good and when I close the door the 50 000 is still there but It will accept coins and the handle activates the reels but the reels won't stop, I think because the it thinks the door is open. The buzzer goes off to let me know the door is open even though it is not. Both switches check OK. The key switch and the hinge switch. Thanks.

sudsy7 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 24, 2016, 04:21:03 pm »

You can lead a horse to water...

Amechanic · « **Reply #50 on:** June 24, 2016, 04:57:24 pm »

Ok that progress.. Now try running test 8.. See if it works there.. With the door open put it in test 8, coin up the machine by flicking the coin switch wire and pull the handle. See if your reels stop. If you hit a winning combination it will show in the meter, if not you will or should see an 8 then how many coin you played then 000 for nothing won, like 83 000, or 83 002 if you won 2 coins..
When your done with testing, if you close the front door, your machine should stop the test and show 50 000 in the meter. If it doesn't then your door switch is not working or need the to be adjusted. Loosen the two screws and slide it forward.
Does your machine still have the switch at the door lock inside or has it been removed and bypassed?

kingjim · « **Reply #51 on:** June 24, 2016, 05:12:39 pm »

OK. On test 8 I flicked the wire for 2 coins and won nothing. I did in fact get the expected code of 82 000. I closed the door and got the 50 000. It does still have the switch at the door lock and tests good. I hook it to the ohm meter and have power turn the key and it goes but the 50 000 never goes away and continues to buzz every few seconds to let me know the door is open even though it is not. Thank you.

kingjim · « **Reply #52 on:** June 24, 2016, 05:29:08 pm »

Just a quick update. I bypassed the door switch and the 50 000 still will not go away. Everything else is perfect.

Amechanic · « **Reply #53 on:** June 24, 2016, 05:34:22 pm »

That door lock switch is connected / runs thru the door hinge switch. You need to figure if your lock switch is meant to be closed when the doors locked. Can you post a pic of the doors lock assembly and switch. It's like dehills said you could have a bad cap or relay on the MPU..

kingjim · « **Reply #54 on:** June 24, 2016, 05:51:00 pm »

Here they are. I hooked it back up for the pictures. Thanks.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #55 on:** June 24, 2016, 08:02:21 pm »

Please post a good picture of your door hinge switch also.

kingjim · « **Reply #56 on:** June 24, 2016, 08:12:35 pm »

Really sorry about that. Wasn't thinking.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #57 on:** June 24, 2016, 08:15:20 pm »

The door lock switch, the pics of the wires are too dark to see how many wires are connected to that switch and the colors of the wires. You can bypass this switch by wire nut together the correct wires.

kingjim · « **Reply #58 on:** June 24, 2016, 08:27:49 pm »

Door switch close up just of the wires. Front is Grey with Red trace on it. Rear is Yellow with Blue trace. Hope these are better.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #59 on:** June 24, 2016, 08:35:07 pm »

Tie those 2 wires together on the door lock switch. Then to make sure the hinge switch is not a problem , temporarily disconnect the 2 wires from the hinge switch and tape them together. Now coin it up and pull the handle and see if the 50 000 code goes away.

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Author Topic: Bally e 1000 Tests good but (Read 24807 times)