Author Topic: S2000 Enhanced handle solenoid repeating to fire after key 17 power up (Read 4412 times)

TheDude · « **on:** November 13, 2018, 09:23:32 pm »

Hello all... I did a 97 and ended up with door open mb and coin-in jam. Threw in the key 17 to set denominations and on power up have no bv power cycle or reel spin. Bottom led blinks in unison with the firing handle solenoid. Weird!!! Everything jumped on a coinless 3 reel multi denom. Any ideas appreciated!

Thanks

Amechanic · « **Reply #1 on:** November 13, 2018, 09:53:21 pm »

Key 17 is not for the S2000. I use a 31 key or a 45 key. The 17 key is for the GK or I Games. I would clear it again then use one of the other key chips.

TheDude · « **Reply #2 on:** November 13, 2018, 09:56:49 pm »

Thank you for responding... much appreciated. I will source the proper key chip and try again.

qbert · « **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2018, 05:24:53 am »

For the record key 17 will work on 500 series S2000 boards.
Key 45 is preferred (it works on both 500 and enhanced MPUs).
You have other issues with this machine.
Was it working before you cleared it?
Are the florescent lights in the machine working?
Coin in jamb usually is a bad door I/O card.
Need more information. MPU type 500 or enhanced.
What is the game's title and chip sets.
Rich

Amechanic · « **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2018, 05:47:13 am »

Thanks for that information. I was taught to use a 31 or 45, and that the 17 key was for early GK and I Games. Never too old to learn something new.

TheDude · « **Reply #5 on:** November 17, 2018, 06:22:42 pm »

Thank you for the clarification on the preferred key chip. I had already sent away for the 31 so I used that after the 97. The slot was purchased not working. Looks like a rats nest. I was able to tone out the optics and other switches to bypass other then the belly door switch. The wire is pulled out of the harness and is hanging from the switch. I am unable to find the other end within the wire bundles even after cutting wire ties to closely examine them. I searched for the pin outs specific to the belly switch with no luck. Followed standard protocol to clear and set. After reinstalling the base chip cleared until press the mpu button for 2-3 seconds. Now can not clear "Please Close Main Door".

Enhanced MB

Varta removed along with U16

Florescent lights are on

Double Cherry Bar[size=78%] [/size]
[/size]
Thanks again

qbert · « **Reply #6 on:** November 17, 2018, 07:48:17 pm »

It sounds like something is not correct when you bypassed the optics. What method did you use? The door switch must work you can not bypass optics unless you have included wiring through the cherry switch on the door.
Also post pictures of the wires you are talking about.
Everything sounds correct so far.

TheDude · « **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2018, 09:01:16 pm »

Picked up off an eBay sale. Assuming they tried to unsuccessfully fix the machine. I used the suggestion user sayouttadabunker posted from the thread http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0
Since the previous owner fed the wires to the bottom of the cabinet I can not identify with certainty which wire goes to what without the pinout. This is what I have so far. Thanks

qbert · « **Reply #8 on:** November 17, 2018, 09:43:19 pm »

From what I can see it looks correct make sure that alligator clip going to the cherry switch is not grounding to the case (white clip) also did you confirm that the cherry switch is functioning properly with an ohm meter?

What did you do with the belly door switch?

TheDude · « **Reply #9 on:** November 17, 2018, 09:51:54 pm »

Switch tested good and is operating. When the switch is pressed the service light inside the cabinet turns off.

qbert · « **Reply #10 on:** November 17, 2018, 09:59:05 pm »

The cabinet light going on and off does not confirm the switch is working. It is two separate circuits. You must confirm the part of the switch that you have the alligator clamps attached. Also what did you do with the belly door switch ?

TheDude · « **Reply #11 on:** November 17, 2018, 10:14:23 pm »

I tested the cherry with a meter. All is good. The belly glass door switch wire was pulled up thru the cabinet and into the door. It was hanging by the switch out the front door. I was unable to see where it was cut or taken from. Assumed that the pictured wires were the ones I was after. They were hanging unconnected in the mid cabinet within a two wire connector so I took a chance.

green blue
black red

qbert · « **Reply #12 on:** November 17, 2018, 10:25:49 pm »

Does not look correct.
When you open the belly door there is a large harness on the left side. The belly door switch should have a green and a lighter green wire going to a two wire plug coming from that harness. You just need to connect the two green wires coming from the harness together. You can even clip the plug and just connect the wires. (If not done so already)

qbert · « **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2018, 10:30:16 pm »

Disconnect the black and green wires you show that you twisted together they were originally in a plug housing that is not used.

TheDude · « **Reply #14 on:** November 17, 2018, 10:37:30 pm »

Attached pic shows the green blue that was pulled thru the cabinet to the front of the door. I need to find where that green blue wire originates so I can connect it there is what I am thinking?

qbert · « **Reply #15 on:** November 17, 2018, 10:51:58 pm »

I'm not sure how bad the wiring is hacked but you should just be able to just short the green wires together. You can even leave them plugged in together.
Normally you have the plug going into the large harness on one side and the other side of the plug the wires are like 2 inches long and plug into the belly switch located at the top of your picture.

TheDude · « **Reply #16 on:** November 17, 2018, 11:05:51 pm »

Appears the previous owner followed the wire from the belly door switch and cut it down deep in the cabinet or might have took the time to remove the wire from the harness and plug the harness back in. Since I can not find a cut green blue wire within the cabinet I almost have to think that is what they did. It has to terminate somewhere. Stuck for just a moment to figure out what harness and pin(s) the green and blue wire originate from that go to the belly door switch. I suppose a harder search for the pin out of all the connectors is needed.

qbert · « **Reply #17 on:** November 17, 2018, 11:19:11 pm »

That green wire goes up to the optics located on the door.
I do not believe you will hurt anything by connecting the green wires in the belly together. Try that and see what happens your alligator connections are correct.

TheDude · « **Reply #18 on:** November 18, 2018, 11:13:48 am »

I was thinking the red white wire was the optic and green blue was the belly switch? I tied green blue together with the green from the belly switch with no change. You will see in the photo it is just a loop now.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #19 on:** November 18, 2018, 05:46:46 pm »

Take the long wire off and twist the 2 ends of that plug together. That will complete the jumper and hopefully the machine will se the door as closed. Since the door optic was bypassed that wire is not needed

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Author Topic: S2000 Enhanced handle solenoid repeating to fire after key 17 power up (Read 4412 times)