Can you ACTUALLY bypass door optics?

[marcbollinger]

Sorry, searched but never found a good answer. Is there anyway to bypass the door optics on the SAVP?

I mean, besides taping the two optics together so they are always looking at each other LOL. I know they aren't switches, so I can just splice/jumper each side, but what about splicing each side together?

[Stayouttadabunker]

I kind wished you would of told us why you want to do this? lol Oh well.
Splicing each end of the harness together, will never work - I warn you, you'd be closing the ends and shorting out the circuitry.
One of the wires is a pulsing signal line.
That's the line that needs to be seen from on one of the recieving wires on the other 2-wire harness.
What you need to do is find out which wire, at each end, is the signal out and in lines.
If you cross them, you short out the optic generator chips on the MPU.

What I've learned from the IGT's with the door optics is that they have the pulsing signal coming out on the colored wires...>>> other than the black wire.
The black or green wires are the ground wires....you only need the ground wire from the reciever optic harness for the pulsing signal to get thru without optical diodes.
So...without me going look at a set of SAVP wiring schematics (or you telling us what colors are your optic wires) I'd run one wire from each 2-wire harness to a cherry switch on the door and have the cherry switch open and close the pulsing signal.
The way a cherry switch on the door works is there's two sets of 3 connection tabs (or six tabs in all) - you'll only need one set of 3 tabs....the other set of 3 tabs is usually for that service lamp that comes on when you open the door.

Connect a colored wire (non-black or green) from the emitter optic harness to the 1st tab...don't connect anything to the middle tab.
Now connect a black or green wire from the cabinet revciever optic to the 3rd tab.
Now your door optics are connected but seen by the MPU as "open".
When you push the cherry switch plunger in, the circuit will be "closed", thereby fooling the MPU into thinking the door is physically closed.
That cherry switch also closes the circuitry when you pull the plunger out fully all the way and locking it.
A great tool really, for checking things out with the door physically open.

In you next Reply, see if you can tell us what colors are on the emitter and reveiver ends of your harness in your SAVP?
Below is a drawing I made once of an S2000 set of door optic harnesses connected to a cherry switch.
It may help you.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[marcbollinger]

Hey man,

Wow, I wasn't expecting you to spend so much time explaining this, but I sure do appreciate it and I'm sure other will in time as well.

Yeah, I had a customer who decided to get creative and pull out the wires from the optic sensor. Before I send him a replacement, I just wanted to see how possible it would have been to bypass. Attached is an image, looks like red and yellow, so not sure which is the pulsating signal. Probably best not to experiment.

This is incredibly good information to have and I truly appreciate you taking the time to respond with it. The door optics on the SAVP cabinets have always been a royal PITA for me, so was considering doing a bypass on each machine going out the door.

Marc

[Stayouttadabunker]

You;re welcome.
I often found it very difficult to explain how wire colors when talking about door optics....that's why I had made a drawing.
But even my drawing is somewhat wrong because iIn the drawing above, I used the same colors of the harness wires, to go from the 2-pin Molex plug to the cherry switch.
Normally IGT used red and black for the emitter door optic, and red and white for the reciever cabinet optic and the colors on the respective 2-pin harnesses, totally different. LOL

I'm going to say that "yellow" wire is really white? (Perhaps yellowed with age and heat?)
Igt usually had used a red wire and a white wire for the reciever optic....you'd need to connect that "yellow" wire onto one tab of the cherry switch.

The other optic on the door should be the emitter optic (The one that emits infrared light that you can "see" with a digital camera.)
It may have a red wire and a black wire.
The red wire from that one would be the one that has the pulsing signal and should run to the other tab on a cherry switch.

[marcbollinger]

You;re welcome.
I often found it very difficult to explain how wire colors when talking about door optics....that's why I had made a drawing.
But even my drawing is somewhat wrong because iIn the drawing above, I used the same colors of the harness wires, to go from the 2-pin Molex plug to the cherry switch.
Normally IGT used red and black for the emitter door optic, and red and white for the reciever cabinet optic and the colors on the respective 2-pin harnesses, totally different. LOL

I'm going to say that "yellow" wire is really white? (Perhaps yellowed with age and heat?)
Igt usually had used a red wire and a white wire for the reciever optic....you'd need to connect that "yellow" wire onto one tab of the cherry switch.

The other optic on the door should be the emitter optic (The one that emits infrared light that you can "see" with a digital camera.)
It may have a red wire and a black wire.
The red wire from that one would be the one that has the pulsing signal and should run to the other tab on a cherry switch.

Thanks man - so, if I'm following you correctly, if I wanted to completely bypass even the switch (perm close it), I could connect the Red Wire (from the red/black emitter optic) to the white (yellow) wire on the receiver and leave the black from emitter and red from receiver open?

Marc

[Stayouttadabunker]

Yes...you've got it Marc.
When you push in the plunger, you should immediately see a change on the lcd screen about the door.