809-ZZB another project. (blame Wolftalk)

[David Walz]

Well, the glass arrived, I'm not to excited about it, however it is what it is.......

[David Walz]

Obviously, someone been messing with the reels, I thought so since they were beat up. They need to be replaced, I just had to get it together to see how bad it was being off on the centerline.

[David Walz]

I'm working on aligning the reels, checking to see if everything aligns up correctly. It's a long process to check out the spacing, depth, etc.   

[David Walz]

The reel tapes are finally aligned, I am using a good set of reels from my other project.

[David Walz]

At least the reel tapes match up with the year, assigned model numbers, that's positive.

[David Walz]

After I disassembled the reels, sourced 3 that were not destroyed, aligned everything up we were successful in getting everything completed.

[David Walz]

Looking good!

[David Walz]

Working on the upper unit. Cleaning sockets, service, repairing. The bulb sockets needed some cleaning also.

Another problem is that the reel, upper unit, hopper, plugs needed to be cleaned, the issue is that they are difficult to plug in and out, I have worked on the hopper, and the plug needed some repair from being difficult to plug in, someone forcing it in place., maybe its buildup from age, but whatever it is, it's a butt nugget.
 

[David Walz]

I think I found my mistake. 

The capacitor has a positive and negative, I think I switched the capacitor around and  happened, maybe, I thought that I was following the old capacitor placement. Guess I need to go over the schematic and figure out what I did.

Back to the drawing board. 

[David Walz]

And that is why my resistor blew up. The capacitor + - is wrong.    :

[David Walz]

I repaired the problem. The capacitor was installed incorrectly. It is functioning now.

 I'm at fault for this "O" s*hit! 

[David Walz]

I have more parts coming in from K-LAR.

The parts are getting harder to find, I may need to go and manufacture some metal pieces, thankfully, they are not all that difficult to make.

[David Walz]

Today's work:
In checking out the reel coils, someone installed the coil improperly causing a problem.
Checked out all of the coils, All of them work. 
Checked out the door functions, everything is functioning.

Checking the coin lockout it's not functioning, however the coin lockout coil is functioning.  When I activate the coin switch it clicks in the upper cabinet as usual, but it doesn't work the handle release coil, etc.
I need to work on that next.

[David Walz]

After a process of elimination, I located the problem. A switch was buggered up. Only took me the whole morning to find the bugger.

On to the next problem, I have to locate a short, when I activate the coin switch, then pull the handle it goes poof.

The bugs are getting removed..

[David Walz]

So, back to work. I am working on the top lighting, and it's in need of work. The sockets are loose, the advancement sticks, so I need to get to work.

[wolftalk]

Well, the glass arrived, I'm not to excited about it, however it is what it is.......

the back side of the glass was masked with black or gray opaque ink where light shouldn't shine thru.  Areas where light shines through were usually masked with a translucent white.

if your problem is hot spotting from the fluorescent tubes, muck around with colored plastic film or paper to diffuse or block the light.  Something like a mylar sheet the same size as the glass will let you spray paint it or stick on other colors to experiment. 

other option is get rid of the fluorescent tubes and use leds/led strips shooting light parallel to the glass to wash the back with indirect light.

[wolftalk]

the limit bar circled in red below is technically wrong if it's touching the blade to the left.

the connection should only be thru the switch contacts.  If current is flowing thru the limit bar, it works, but if arcs happen there when the switch opens the switch blade will eventually burn thru or weaken enough to break.  Also, if the long blade hits the limit bar and keeps moving, you've halved the distance the long blade is bending and the blade is more likely to mechanically fatigue and snap.

adjust the fat limit bar to the right (in the pic) so it's not touching the blade to the left of it ... like the other switch on that stack.

the job of the limit bar is to prevent the short blade from following the long one (keeping the contacts touching) when the long one moves left. 

[David Walz]

the limit bar circled in red below is technically wrong if it's touching the blade to the left.

the connection should only be thru the switch contacts.  If current is flowing thru the limit bar, it works, but if arcs happen there when the switch opens the switch blade will eventually burn thru or weaken enough to break.  Also, of the long blade hits the limit bar and keeps moving, you've halved the distance the long blade is bending and the blade is more likely to mechanically fatigue and snap.

adjust the fat limit bar to the right (in the pic) so it's not touching the blade to the left of it ... like the other switch on that stack.

the job of the limit bar is to prevent the short blade from following the long one (keeping the contacts touching) when the long one moves left.

I didn't see that coming, thanks 

[David Walz]

Well, the glass arrived, I'm not to excited about it, however it is what it is.......

the back side of the glass was masked with black or gray opaque ink where light shouldn't shine thru.  Areas where light shines through were usually masked with a translucent white.

if your problem is hot spotting from the fluorescent tubes, muck around with colored plastic film or paper to diffuse or block the light.  Something like a mylar sheet the same size as the glass will let you spray paint it or stick on other colors to experiment. 

other option is get rid of the fluorescent tubes and use leds/led strips shooting light parallel to the glass to wash the back with indirect light.

Will get to it.

[wolftalk]

Well, the glass arrived, I'm not to excited about it, however it is what it is.......

the back side of the glass was masked with black or gray opaque ink where light shouldn't shine thru.  Areas where light shines through were usually masked with a translucent white.

if your problem is hot spotting from the fluorescent tubes, muck around with colored plastic film or paper to diffuse or block the light.  Something like a mylar sheet the same size as the glass will let you spray paint it or stick on other colors to experiment. 

other option is get rid of the fluorescent tubes and use leds/led strips shooting light parallel to the glass to wash the back with indirect light.

Will get to it.

if you use led tubes, they may allow directional aiming or at least be cool enough you could put tape or whatever over some of it to block direct light.