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Author Topic: Reel Spin Error - SG-150B Treasure Wheel - Video, details, request for help!  (Read 772 times)

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Offline Chris-socal

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The BV should take any $1 bill. It probably won’t take any larger bills newer than 2003.
In response to your question about getting a good picture, it has to do with where in the flicker cycle your lens is. When this happens I just take a short video and then play it back on my phone and take a screenshot. It works every time. I have this problem a lot when working on CRT monitors.

Chris

Offline Mr. Dinoman

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If you have the manual, look at pg. 2-11 and it explains how to adjust your volume.  You will need your buttons to work!

Offline KRW7710

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If you have the manual, look at pg. 2-11 and it explains how to adjust your volume.  You will need your buttons to work!

So, having an issue with the volume - the new MPU that I got has very low volume.
I did turn it all the way up in software settings - this does affect the volume level but you still can barely hear it when turned all the way up.

I ended up swapping the old MPU back in just to see, and the volume returned to normal with that board (but the reel spin error is still present on the old board), so not a speaker or amp issue.

Its maybe a voltage draw down or something - do you guys know of any specific capacitors on the MPU that are related to the sound?
The manual schematic doesn't go that deep.

I did pull off the dead CR2032 battery on the new board just to make sure that wasn't causing any drawdown, although theres no battery charge circuit anyway.

Im wondering if I could just get away with a little mini audio amp in-line like this to compensate for whatever may be going on: https://www.canakit.com/0-5w-universal-mini-amplifier-kit-ck026-uk026.html?srsltid=AfmBOoouGQjqoJklp1ZEIVx6iJZSknRuUzrLvLUm5efxF0sQaQVZuwmp-1Y


 

Offline Mr. Dinoman

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Hopefully this will help you!
Jimmy

Offline Chris-socal

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You want to be careful adding an amp to an amp. Just because the circuit isn’t passing audio through doesn’t mean there isn’t power going to the speaker. The audio amp is on the right side of the board where the heat sink is. There are only a few capacitors in that circuit. I have worked on a good number of the original style SG-150 boards and capacitors failing isn’t a huge problem with them. I have found a few caps slightly out of spec but you are describing a significantly failed circuit. If you have an in-circuit ESR meter test the caps in the surrounding area.
So you are saying the alleged NOS board doesn’t have working audio but the old non-working board does. Interesting. I would try swapping the amp or audio IC.

Chris

 

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