Bally 742 voltage issues?

[Somethingfunny]

We started working on this machine that the family has had for years. No coins are accepted and we think the issue leads back to either the coin lockout coil or the coin relay. in sussing this out I checked the voltage on the lockout coil and found it to be roughly 3 volts. I checked this at the fuse and transformer as well and found the following:
6v fuse reading at 2.7-3v
50v fuse reading 42v
120 is 120.

I'm wondering if the transformer is burned up, or if I should be looking for other issues.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I'll post a couple photos for reference and identification.

[DavidLee]

Do the 6 volt lights come on?
Does any part of the machine function?

Was the machine running before it went into hibernation?
Machines that sit for long periods of time accumulate dust, and corrosion.
Thus keep it from running.

Photos would help.

[wolftalk]

if the coin is dumping back to the tray, the lockout coil has a problem or the coin mech is just unhappy.  You can toggle the coin switch down/up with your finger to bypass the coin handling completely.

if the issue is the coin lockout coil/circuit, a quick hack to get going is stick tape over the hole in the back of the mech so the lockout armature tab can't poke into the mech and cause the coin to reject.

for the voltages, assuming you're measuring with one probe on the common yellow wire, the voltages are low.  If you are measuring to green/ground, that's not a valid place to stick the probe as the secondary voltages are not referenced to mains/120V ground.

generally speaking, it's possible to change the wiring on the transformer to handle different mains/line voltage. 

the most common transformer used is below.  Note where the mains wires attach and the jumpering needed for 120V input.

'course, since lugs 1 and 3 are jumpered together it doesn't really matter which one has one of the power wires.  Ditto for where the other power wire goes on lugs 5 and 7.

typically:
-  the hot/black power cord wire goes to the 120V fuse and the other side of the fuse is a white/blue wire to the safety timer, and the other side of the safety timer is a white wire to the transformer lug 1

- the neutral power cost wire was spliced to a red wire with a wire crimp connector.  The red wire went to the transformer lug 5.

- green ground power cord wire is attached to metal plate someplace with the crimp ring terminal.

[Somethingfunny]

Here are the photos. Hopefully they will post as I have tried several times to do so with no luck.

[Somethingfunny]

I have added photos. Please let me know what photos would be most helpful

[Somethingfunny]

The coin switch will trigger the coin accepted light but it will not step up and also the handle release does not work.

[wolftalk]

if the coin accepted light turns on, the coin relay on the left side of the reel mech is tripping when the coin switch goes down.

if you wanted to measure the 6VAC and 50VAC voltages at the transformer, you'd stick one meter probe on the common yellow wire (center-top lug) and poke the other two top lugs with the other probe.  You should get around around 56V on the orange/red wire and 6.3V on the blue/red.

since your light and the coin relay are working tho, you should be fine.

the common yellow wire (30 on the schematics) goes all over the machine.  One easy place to find it is a lug on the coin switch on the door.

if ya can post the following pics, that would help:

1] entire inside of door
2] coin mech area with the mech removed
3] entire left and right sides of the reel mech
4] area around/including the handle release relay

the circuit for the handle release goes thru a bunch of switches, and the circuit will be close to the one on the 742A-107 schematic found on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ - schems are the w-1046-xxx file in the appropriate folder.

a common problem is the coin rejector switch on the left side of the coin mech frame ... if you have one.

you can use the voltmeter or a jumper wire to find the problem ... got a preference?  The trick is most of the places you need to attach things require pulling the reel mech or hopper out to attach the probe/jumper to the spot, so it any case having alligator clip jumper wires is handy.

if the game pays, that reduces the possible places the handle release isn't working. 

to spin the reels, you can manually trip the handle release (push the armature plate onto the coil top), or you can pull/hold the spike sticking out the top of the handle box forward while pulling the handle down.

to set up a win, grab the spinning fan on the left side of the reels right when/after the reels kick (it won't hurt :-)).  With the fan held, the reels won't index.  Stop reel 1 on a symbol you want and let go of the fan until reel 1 indexes.  Grab fan again and repeat for reels 2 and 3.

'course, the door is open when doing this, so once reel 3 indexes the hopper should turn on and start spitting out coins ... so either catch then, close the door far enough, or let them fill your shoes.

[DavidLee]

The coin relay rear bottom left of the reels chassis controls insert and coin accepted lights.
Also, I believe the handle release circuit. Which is activated when the coin in switch returns to its normal position. Check the coin in relay contacts for continuity in both positions latched and unlatched.
In this case the unlatched position would be suspect as not working properly.

Also, the two horizontal switches should be cleaned and inspected.
These are located on the left side of the reels chassis above the coin in relay.
BEST TO DO THIS FIRST, then test the machine

The whole group of switches are referred to as the A B & C switches.