Gamemaker MPU Battery Holder

[Tacman]

Realizing I'm going to have my Gamemaker with me a long time I decided to use a remote battery holder when replacing the dead battery on the board.  Figured next time I go to change the battery I won't have to whip out the solder station and screwdriver.  Maybe it's overkill for something that will probably only be done once every 5 years, and perhaps a bit cheesy, but satisfied my urge to do some sort of useful mod!
BenF

[Tacman]

« Reply #1 on: 31-05-2010, 10:43:03 » Good idea, did you use velcro for the battery holder? The reason I ask is that those two game eproms by the tray front are sometimes hard to get in, let alone with that battery holder now possibly in the way too.  Dan (tacman) « Reply #8 on: 21-07-2010, 10:35:38 » The battery that you see pictured at the top of the thread is a AA sized 3.6V Saft battery. The barrel batteries that we use in S+ and Bally slots are 1/2AA batteries. The difference (aside from size) is the mAh rating of the batteries. What you can (and should) do is to mount the battery holder on the outside front of the MPU frame instead of inside. That way, you can change the battery with the board plugged in and with power on. If you do this when the battery is just getting low (before the Saferam is corrupted), you will be able to save all of your setup information without having to perform a clear/setup. On the other hand, Gamemakers aren't noted for having dead battery issues like the Bally Proslots, which seem to eat batteries like candy, so installing a battery holder in a GM is probably overkill. In addition, when it comes to the Gamemaker, I find myself performing clears all the time because I frequently swap out games and haven't yet found a second board and tray at a price that I want to pay. If you also tend to swap games, then there is no need to put the battery outside the box. However, it's still the method of choice for Bally Proslots. Statfreak

[Mcoscuna]

I would like to do the same situation, but the soldering points are damaged and I need to use a jumper to a valid point. Can anyone provide me a good jumper for each side of the battery? Thank you!

[Chris-socal]

Hello Mcoscuna
Maybe I misunderstand your problem but can’t you just run a wire to the nearest good contact along the trace? In case I misunderstand your problem I have included a few pictures of my board close up.

Chris

[kcirrick]

Chris is on the money.  If you are unable to reflow the trace then you can follow it until you find a spot you can carefully solder a wire to.  You've heard the saying, "Measure twice.  Cut once."?  Good advice, but I'd say follow that trace five times before soldering.   Better safe...

[Mcoscuna]

I believe I had success installing the battery.  I had to also replace the power supply and now I have a monitor display stating graphics changed and need to use old graphics or clear saferam. I don't have a clear chip that is described in the manual. Sorry I'm a newbie and this is my first slot machine troubleshooting.

[Chris-socal]

If you have a Gamemaker you must have a reset chip. Every time the battery dies it needs to be reset. If you change games it needs to be reset. If Mars aligns with Jupiter…..you get the idea. Most of the time you just have to step through settings and press enter but it requires the P10 eeprom set chip to do it. Its the most painful part of owning a Gamemaker.

You can buy them on eBay or send me a PM.

Chris

[kcirrick]

I have a suggestion once you get your clear chip.  As you know, the legs of your game chips and the clear chip are very fragile and are easily bent and broken.  To avoid this, purchase a couple of chip socket adapters like in this attached image.  Put both the game chip that is in P10 and the clear chip in these sockets.  You’ll find it easier to insert and pull the chips from P10 without damage.

[KNNSIN]

V7200 Upright GameMaker here...just wanted to share my battery holder mod details:

Parts can be found at www.digikey.com

Battery: 439-1014-ND (MFG Part# TL-5903/S)
Battery Holder: 36-2222-ND (MFG Part# 2222)

Here are some additional details:
1. Added 2 layers of double sided foam adhesive under the battery holder (insulates from nearby components and relieves stress on the solder joints during changeout)
2. I opened the battery holder ears slightly (so battery can be changed a little easier, grip is still good and no way the battery will come out on its own)
3. Modified the battery holder contacts to fit the board (used a bench grinder)

I am very pleased with the results.

[Chris-socal]

Nice workmanship. Thats why I use plastic holders. Im lazy.

[KNNSIN]

Nice workmanship. Thats why I use plastic holders. Im lazy.

Thanks, yours looks great too.  To be honest, I couldn't find a plastic holder with contacts to line up with the board.   

[Chris-socal]

They don’t, but the pins were long enough to bend to match. Truth is, on most games a 1/2 AA is fine but Gamemakers are such a pain when they go dead its best to have a larger battery.

[KNNSIN]