S-plus doesn't operate

[knagl]

Okay, you're making progress.  We'll get this yet!

Just to be crystal clear, the normal procedure for clearing a 61 error is:

- Press and hold the white self-test button by the power switch for up to five seconds.  The display should change from "61" to "61  1", and the speaker should ding if it is working.

- Close and latch the front door (ensure that all other doors are closed, too (cash can door, belly glass door)).

- Turn the jackpot reset key once and release (or in your case, touch the wires sticking out from that keyswitch together once, then separate them).

The "61  1" should disappear, and the machine should do its "maiden spin" and be ready for play.  If not:

- If the "61  1" remains on the display, the machine is not sensing that the door is closed and will not let you finish the initialization procedure.  Likely causes in order from most likely to least likely: open bill validator stacker door switch (the door where the "cash can" goes in), bad main door optics, misaligned door optics, open belly glass door (only on the few machines that had a belly door switch installed).

- If the "61  1" vanishes and "61" returns, you are in the "61 loop" and must use a RAM clear chip to resolve the issue.



If your "61  1" isn't changing after you turn the jackpot reset key (or in your case, touching the keyswitch wires together once and releasing) and your cash can door is closed, my money would be on bad/blown door optics.

[CabinetDan]

Clear chips ordered.  But my thoughts still bring me back to the switch for the cash can that has the wires cut.  There are slide on connectors still on the switch, but the wires are cut. The wires may have been twisted tgether, But I can't locate them to confirm that.  Where would these wires go?

[Amechanic]

Look behind to bill acceptor for the two wire hooked together. If the wires are still running inside the bill acceptor, then you should be able to find tucked away inside the the bill acceptor. I do this on all of my machines.

[jay]

Hi,


Make sure your door optics are good.
You can use your phone or other digital camera.
If you point your camera you will see one set flashing .
You can’t see it with the naked eye.


I think your in the 61 loop I spoke of earlier.
A clear chip will fix this up.


With the door closed and just the 61 try the reset switch (or short) as the case may be.
See if it throws you into stats mode. This will prove that the switch wiring is working.

[CabinetDan]

I see a little glow in the optic when I take a pic.  Not sure if that's just a glare or not.
Man I'm searching high and low to locate the wires that go to the cash can.  It looks like there should be a green and black wires.   ppulled the whole Bill validator out and opened it up and couldn't find any wires tied together, and not any wires as heavy as  the ones that are attached to the switch. I attached that pic here too.
Also, in the pitch with the cash can switch, any ideas what the orange stuff is that's oozing out of the pull lever mechanism? looks like it would be grease and soft, but it's actually fairly hard.  No idea how it's dripping. Makes no sense. 
BUT, back to my main issue.  I just don't want to use the cradle chips (I get them Saturday) if I don't have to.  it's kinda strange that all of a sudden the reset switch doesn't do anything at all.  It was working last week.

[jay]

You had a 12 last week. Now you have a 61.
I would proceed with the clear.
The 61 loop is common after a 12 especially if the battery went real dead.

[CabinetDan]

Well, I'm going to go with the theory that the optic WAS good.  Apparently I broke a wire off.  Thought it went to the little tab sticking out of the side, so soldered it on, I but guess not.  Now back to getting the 61 only and nothing from the test button.  Dammit.  Guess I'm going shopping

[Amechanic]

Ok. The white switch with the orange arrow pointing at it can be removed. It’s not needed, just remove the two screws holding the bracket on from the inside of the cash can hole. Next the orange goo is grease coming out of the handle assembly, see white arrows. Next see the yellow arrow. Those should be the wires that go to the front door switch on the cash box door. Those two wires can be cut and connected together. Those are the two I was talking about.

[CabinetDan]

Yes. I did find the wires to the micro switch for the cash can door. Those are actually connected together right by the switch.
Thare aren't any wires for the switch in the back that is activated when the cash can is installed?
Also I ordered new optics. Will have Saturday when I get the chips.


I do have another question though.  Is it fairly probable that I'll get this thing working properly? I ask because all of the laminate on the exterior is falling off.  I don't want to put the time and expense into stripping it and relaminating it if there's a chance that it will end up being junk. Lol

[Amechanic]

I don’t see why not. As long as it’s not all hacked up inside. When you do the optics pay attention to the wires colors. One optic has Red & Black wires and the other is Red & White. They both have the same plugs. I like to use blue painters tape to mark my optics locations on the door and cabinet after they are installed. Mark a line on the OS of the cabinet where the center of the optic is, and do the same on the door optic. Make sure the door latch is down when marking the door optic. Now close the door and latch it. The marks should line up. If not then adjust. This is the best way I’ve figured out how to adjust them.

[jay]

All of the issues you have are pretty common - in another 30 days this will be all old-hat and you will be dishing out advice to the newbes. The only question Is how much room do you have for machines. Once you get the first one running its like a drug.

[CabinetDan]

Not sure what it means, but just got an email telling me that this topic has been marked as a sticky topic. 
Since it's still here, I'm guessing that isn't totally bad.
So here's my update
New battery came in.  Installed that and I'm back to getting the 61-1.
My buddy ordered the clear chip set, key for the reset, and new locks.  We should be doing all or most of that tonight.
I did break the one optic, so I'm pretty sure we won't "Git-r-dun" tonight, but hopefully we'll be close. 
Optics are supposed to be in the mail tomorrow.  Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll be there today.


My one question still up to this point that I either missed, or haven't got a solid answer on is, That switch being the cash can.  I did find the wires that go to the micro switch that trips when the door in front of the cash can is closed.  Did those same 2 wires also go to the switch behind the cash can? So both switches had to be tripped to complete the circuit?  Or should I still be searching for 2 other wires?  Because I can't find any others

[jay]

A sticky topic is one that has been deemed to have some rich goodness in so that others can learn from.
If you look at forum topics and go the sub board that this tread is in, the sticky topics are at the top so they can be referenced.


I don’t think your having door issues but will know for sure once you get past the 61-1

[Amechanic]

The two wires for the white switch are not important and I don’t think they exist. Just make sure that the 2 green/blue wires from the front cash can door switch are connected together. The white switch can be totally removed it’s not needed.

[CabinetDan]

That's what I want to hear about the wires. Thank you.


And I'm glad that hopefully someone else's problems can roll a Lil easier down the road. 


Getting pretty pumped now!!

[CabinetDan]

OK guys.  Here's the nightly drama.
Got the new optics and the chips.  Replace both optice.  Feeling pretty confident on alignment.  did the reset chip and it went through the steps just like the instructions said.  replaced the chip, turned it on, got the 61.  Hit the test button, got the 61-1.  Closed the door and dropped the latch.  hit the reset and nothing.
Checked voltage at both optics.  They both react 8.7.  I thought the door was only supposed to be 5ish? 
Possible  may have disconnected the reset throughout my house cleaning?

[CabinetDan]

OK, so apparently I have some kind of short in the motherboard.  After messing with the plugs, I finally got it to work.  Then when we did the BV chip, that set us back to square 1.  61 error.  test button did nothing, Bill validator did nothing.  Did the clear chip again, and wiggled the plugs on the motherboard and got it to work again.  But no bill validator.
BUT, it will only take 3 quarters at a time.  and when inserting quarters, it shows up on the coins played light, but doesn't show on the credits.  If I play 3 quarters at a time until I "win", it will pay out in quarters.  I have to "light up" the cash/credit button to allow winnings to be saved as credits.  My buddy says "that's how we had to do it in the 90's".  I call BS because what would happen if someone put a 20  in??
So maybe the bill validator is bad?
Possibly the motherboard also?
Should the green light be on on the coin comparitor?
What about the voltage on the optics?


Man, the highs and lows are brutal in this game. LOL

[CabinetDan]

And I forgot somewhere throughout the process, the candle switched from both flashing with the bottom flashing faster, to the top was out and the bottom only flashed.
Right now I'm back to the 3 quarter thing and both lights are out on the candle

[sixcardmark]

Green lite will not come on when door is open. 

Bill val giving coins instead of credits is different setting.  Is it set to 8-0?
Check the green wire (first wire on left end) of last connector on motherboard on the rear right (J10) when mpu board is still inserted.  It runs thru the door optics.

[CabinetDan]

IT WORKS!!!!


You know, I always made fun of my ex business partner because he was one of those guys that would get an error on the computer, click "ok", and then do exactly the same thing over and over because "maybe it will work this time".


Well this morning, we went through the clear chip process 2 more times, "just for the hell of it" and for whatever reason, the world's aligned and it started working!!! I'm assuming that whatever plug is jacked up going into the motherboard is making proper contact. 
So the validator will take 1s 20's and 100s  Won't take new 5s or 10s.  I'll do some research to figure out what I want to do with that.


Anyway, seriously thank you all so much.  Never would have gotten through it without your help.  It's awesome to see that people are still wiling to take time out of their day to help someone.thay don't even know.  You guys rock!  If you're even near Mazon, IL, I owe you a beer or 6