Author Topic: bally 1088 - newbie to this (Read 4963 times)

puckhead · « **on:** October 17, 2018, 07:15:23 pm »

this 1088 worked for the most part when i got it, had some hopper issues. i brought it in the house and its sat for months. now im am trying to shape it up. for a while tnite it was doing nothing, but now if i trip the coin switch it releases the handle and plays. coins step up as they should. reels work. coin diverter seems a bit wonky, coins often go to the tray, but if i manually trip the coin switch, it will play a game. i can do all this with the door open. what is the purpose of those switches if it works when open? there is a button switch on the top right, and a switch built into the top hinge, but seems to work with door open. one time i hit, and it payed out, all with the door open. when it tonite first wasnt working at all, it would turn on with the coin accepted light already on, but handle wouldnt unlock. adding coins ( or tripping the switch) wouldnt increase the coin count on the front. tripping the coin switch would release the stepper back to 1 coin. when the handle didnt unlock, tripping the coin switch would cause a distinct relay type click in the area of the left side reel mech. now it seems to be working, starts up saying deposit coin, and says coin accepted when i trip the switch. then works as it should. i tried it a bunch of times, and works. coins still often go to the tray, even though it seems ready to accept a coin, and tripping the coin switch does release the handle.

the orig problem, which happened tonite, is still there. when paying out, you start to get a burning smell. if i pull the hopper, the large blue capacitor on the back of the hopper is way to hot, that seems to be the source of the smell.

i hope the above wasnt too convoluted. probably wasnt working at all from sitting, and messing with it loosed something up. id like to know what that might have been, so i can keep and eye on it, and the burning /hot cap is a big concern. i think the guy i got it from said it would eat fuses. he sent the hopper out to a repair guy from this list, and he got it back saying it was ok.

thanksmike

rokgpsman · « **Reply #1 on:** October 17, 2018, 08:31:41 pm »

Can you post a photo of it showing the outside, and another photo with the door open showing the inside? Thanks!

puckhead · « **Reply #2 on:** October 18, 2018, 06:48:53 am »

i always have trouble posting pics here. here is a link to pics,

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SAtWPK4iHtSGeBAf4G9dSKyGqwj9cnN_
or do you have any advice on posting pics? i think they have to be shrunk? i'll try here

Amechanic · « **Reply #3 on:** October 18, 2018, 08:44:12 am »

The Bally EM machines will play with the door open. They are not like the later E-Series machines where they will tilt when you try to play them. The switch in the top right corner controls the coin in meter so it doesnâ€™t register coin in with the door open. Sounds like that machine need the coin switch contacts cleaned. Those are the switch located on the left side of the reels. The stack with the coil. There is a metal latch that locks the switches in one posistion. Check the operation of that latch too. Sometimes dry grease or no grease makes the latch work hard. The other thing to do is to make sure the Beau plugs on the reels are clean. The beau plug is the plug that connects the reels to the cabinet if you were not sure. You can test run the hopper outside of the cabinet by running 115v directly to the hopper motor to test it. The hopper gearbox grease does dry and can cause a hopper to turn hard. Release the brake on the motor and try turning the coin wheel in the hopper to see how hard it turn. There is a eccentric on the plug side of the hopper bowl. You can adjust that to change the clearance between the coin wheel and hopper bowl. It thatâ€™s too tight it might be putting a load on the hopper motor??

puckhead · « **Reply #4 on:** October 18, 2018, 12:26:57 pm »

good stuff, i'll check it out.
thanks

DavidLee · « **Reply #5 on:** October 18, 2018, 12:36:07 pm »

Re: coin dropping into the tray.
There is an adjustment on the coin mechanism that can be turned in or out that will have an effect on the coin speed.
Start with slight movements and test with the door closed. Note where you started just in case this wasn't the problem.
As this in a very sensitive adjustment.

Best to concentrate on one problem at a time, if it can't be solved move onto the next.
Making to many adjustments all over the machine could make matters worse.

Basically sounds like the machine just needs to be cleaned and ran for awhile.
Always let the machine warm up before operating. Sometimes a good running machine will fault if not warmed up.

DavidLee · « **Reply #6 on:** October 18, 2018, 12:37:15 pm »

Coin mechanism photo

Amechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** October 18, 2018, 01:07:34 pm »

If your trying to use a coin with the door open, your going to have 8 or 9 out of 10 coin fall back to the coin try just because of the angle the open door sits. Try it with the door close if you have not already.

rdaniel · « **Reply #8 on:** October 18, 2018, 10:13:33 pm »

The machine looks to me like an 809 multiplier, not a 1088.

rdaniel

Amechanic · « **Reply #9 on:** October 18, 2018, 10:55:46 pm »

Quote from: rdaniel on October 18, 2018, 10:13:33 pm

The machine looks to me like an 809 multiplier, not a 1088.
rdaniel

The 809 is a small narrow cabinet, plus the 809 is a 5 coin game and this is a 3 coin wide body. I have one similar out in storage.

puckhead · « **Reply #10 on:** October 19, 2018, 07:48:22 am »

i tried rotating the hopper wheel with the brake released. it doesnt turn freely at all, sounds like a cement mixer. also, i can wiggle the wheel back and forth quite a bit without the motor armature moving, like the a gearbox is shot, see video. any tip befire i try to pull this thing apart?

thanksvideo links
https://youtu.be/EQ0Uno5XBpg
or
https://drive.google.com/open?id=10_Vc79XlH5EtGTKS46153ScHovdv5RK7

Amechanic · « **Reply #11 on:** October 19, 2018, 07:58:20 am »

No that normal sound. You long screw holding the hopper star might be bent causing the extra play in the coin wheel. Whatâ€™s not normal is the clicking sound. I think the coin wheel is hitting the exit coin guide up by the top counting roller.

puckhead · « **Reply #12 on:** October 19, 2018, 07:16:21 pm »

amechanic, 100% correct. the bumps on the wheel were hitting the coin plate. the last issue is the 30 mfd 250v cap has a hole in it, i have to replace it. there is a diode and resistor from the switch stack to the coil . the diode give it half wave rectification for the large cap. a crude timer for the coil. there is a resistor also, and its baked and broke in two at the touch. its a large carbon resistor, im guessing 2-4 watts, but i have no idea of the value. could someone take a pic or tell me the colors, or even better, ohm it out to get the value? its the bottom coil. there is also a coil above, with a cement resistor, but no timing capacitor. the coi;s are two different numbers, so most likely the resistor values arent the same. the cement resistor is 470ohm , 10 watt.

thanks

Amechanic · « **Reply #13 on:** October 19, 2018, 07:42:22 pm »

Not sure if I have a EM hopper I can look at. If you have a book with a schematic showing the hopper payout relay, it should show the resistor in question since they should all be the same. I know what one your asking about, itâ€™s the large brown resistor. Let me see what I can find here.

puckhead · « **Reply #14 on:** October 22, 2018, 06:35:14 pm »

well, i think its working well now. i replaced the 30mfd , 250v cap with a new one. i found the diode was shorted and replaced it. i also replaced the fried resistor. i bought a schematic from foxxslots, and he looked up the rating of the resistor so i wouldnt have to wait till the schematic arrived. its 47 ohm, the same as the other resistor underneath the hopper. i was go to try a 47 , but was better to know for sure. i knew it was 2 watt by the size, and bought some from a store. the guy must have spaced out, he gave me .47 ohm, not 47. didnt even know there was a .47 resistor. i ended up make one out of 4 1/2 watt 180 ohm resistors in parallel. made 45 ohms. set it up for a big payout, ran the hopper silly, and the cap never even got hot.

if i ever wanted to sell it, what might it be worth?

thanks to all, especially amechanic.

Amechanic · « **Reply #15 on:** October 22, 2018, 06:45:13 pm »

Itâ€™s like everything else. Location and condition. If in good condition, glass, chrome, cabinet, any where from $400 up. Then depending on model and if it has any Old Casino Glass like Dune, Showboat, Circus circus, etc can add to it value. Check your local listings to compare prices.

puckhead · « **Reply #16 on:** October 23, 2018, 12:25:05 pm »

update: the resistors i put in burst into flames

. i installed a 5 watt 60ohm cement resistor. the cap stays cool. the resistor didnt burn, but the resistor got hot enough to unsolder itself. the unit seems to work well without that coil being hooked up. its a delay unit for the hopper, and the book says it resets the timer unit every few seconds. with it disconnected, i faked a 300 coin payout and it payed out correctly. i immediately pull the hopper and felt all the wires around the timer unit, beau plug, etc, and they were cool to the touch. no idea why the hopper delay coil draws so much current. the coil ohms out at 2k , which seems about right for a 110 v .

im going to leave it as is, but would love to know what might be going on? a intermittent short to ground thru the resistor circuit ?

thanks

DavidLee · « **Reply #17 on:** October 25, 2018, 03:37:53 pm »

I believe the coil operates on 54 volts ac. Is it possible that the circuit mistakenly gets a full 110 volts.
This timer reset system is near front of the machine.
You could hook the meter up and check voltage as the machine is paying out.
Might get a quick spike of 110 where it shouldn't be.

puckhead · « **Reply #18 on:** October 25, 2018, 03:58:21 pm »

possible its 54 volts due to the rectifier diode? half of line voltage? the orig diode shorted, maybe the new one did too. ill check

DavidLee · « **Reply #19 on:** October 25, 2018, 05:09:43 pm »

Photos to compare, yes diodes will cut voltage in one direction.

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Author Topic: bally 1088 - newbie to this (Read 4963 times)