Author Topic: G20 What is going on? (Read 5375 times)

Eddiie · « **on:** December 05, 2020, 01:46:25 pm »

I changed a backplane in a G20. Now, when I plug in the power, there are 2 LEDs that flash at the bottom of the backplane, they are voltage LEDs. 3rd and 4th from the right, pretty sure they are the 5 and 12v LEDs. They have "COM" on their label. Common 5v and 12v? I noticed the work light bulb was night lighting either, well it kind of turned on at the same rate the LEDs flash. Unplugging what I think is the worklight from the backplane, the LEDs stay on. It makes no sense to me why a lightbulb that worked fine before the backplane swap would cause this.

Ok, moving on, turn the machine on. That was not smart. Not really sure what happened but after about 15 seconds, the topper stopped working, the fans made some noises, maybe they turned off, never got anything on the screens.

The two fuses one the backplane are OK.

The 5v and 12v common, is always on, the topper would come on when the power switch is on. So there is another power source for it.

Any thoughts on what might have blown? What to check? Guess I will re-do the backplane incase there is a pinched wire somewhere.

rickhunter · « **Reply #1 on:** December 05, 2020, 03:55:46 pm »

COM is not short for common, it's serial i/o (communications port). I'm not sure what is going on with your cabinet. Did you get the AVP splash screen when you powered up for those 15 seconds? Usually when things power down like that, you have a short somewhere.

Eddiie · « **Reply #2 on:** December 05, 2020, 07:33:16 pm »

Yeah, there's got to be a short somewhere and the bulb adds enough resistance to trip the over load..
Removed everything, changed backplanes, only have the comm power input plugged in and the service light.
overload. Unplug the bulb and it is ok. connect the bulb to a 9 volt battery and it lights up.

How about this.......
When the light is OFF, that is the doors are closed, the switches pulled out, whatever, there is 3 volts still going across the lead to the bulb.

For kicks, can someone remove the bulb from their G20 and see what the voltage is when the door buttons are pushed in. I'd expect 0 but get 3.1.

rickhunter · « **Reply #3 on:** December 05, 2020, 08:58:38 pm »

12v DC when switch is open, 0v when switch is closed.

Eddiie · « **Reply #4 on:** December 06, 2020, 07:01:13 pm »

Thanks! Now to figure out where the 3 is coming from.

Ash100 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2020, 03:13:33 pm »

I've got a similar problem to what you're describing on a G20 as well.

I haven't had time to narrow it down yet, the game has a bad top LCD so it got pushed down on the list of things to work on.

Here's a link to the thread I started a few months ago. You may find something helpful in it, or some troubleshooting tips, though it's not a long thread, and has not yet been resolved.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=29117.0

Good luck,

Curtis ash100

Eddiie · « **Reply #6 on:** December 07, 2020, 05:52:59 pm »

Wow that does sound similar. How did you move past it? From reading it sounded like you were able to load something.
When I ignored the issue and turned on the power, it lasted about 15 seconds before the topper turned off, fans turned off, not sure what else happened. I got spooked and turned it off.

Ash100 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 07, 2020, 06:48:43 pm »

I haven't figured it out yet.

My power never went out, and everything in the cabinet was working correctly.

I even got as far as loading the OS and Game King 8.X. The only thing weird about the machine was the 2 LEDs on the backplane blinking and the service light blinking in unison with the LEDs.

I was going to start tearing it down to troubleshoot as Rick had suggested, but then I lost my top monitor. Now the games won't play without it, so I put it back into storage for the time being.

Definitely a head scratcher.

And I'm certain that we both have a short somewhere. Yours sounds a bit more serious if you actually have components dropping off line.

If I get my monitor back soon, I'll pull it out and start back on it to see what I can figure out.

I'll keep an eye on your thread as well.

Good luck,

Curtis ash100

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2020, 07:35:36 pm »

Quote from: Eddiie on December 06, 2020, 07:01:13 pm

Thanks! Now to figure out where the 3 is coming from.

You have your multi-meter set on DC or VAC?

rickhunter · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2020, 11:19:35 pm »

When I did the test on mine to post, I used DC.

Eddiie · « **Reply #10 on:** December 09, 2020, 11:18:25 am »

Mine was on DC too.

Both backplanes make the 5V and 12V COMM lights blink when the service light is connected. I even replaced the light bulb, ha.
Is the PDU (Power Distribution Unit) a removable item, like a retaining screw? Haven't looked yet.

At this point the only thing plugged in to the backplane is the COMM power input and the Service light at the bottom.

Curtis, can you try removing your service light bulb and see if the LEDs on the backplane still blink?

I going to try connecting the light bulb to the COMM power input and see if it lights.

Ash100 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 14, 2020, 03:52:56 pm »

I basically ran through the whole troubleshooting tree by eliminating everything in the system and still have the two blinking lights on the backplane.

I even removed the service light and it made no difference. So, basically all that I'm left with is the Power Distribution Box and the Backplane.

The distro box is a removable component, but without having a spare one available, I've not tried replacing it.

My guess is it's somewhere in the AC circuit before it's rectified into DC voltage. That process, I'm assuming, is in that Power Distro Box.

The main Power Supply, the 440 watt one, isn't causing any issues, and I've actually replaced it during the troubleshooting process.

I'm stumped. But the machine boots and plays like it should, so until there's a hard failure, I'll leave it alone.

Or, if I get the opportunity, when the next batch of G20's comes through, I'll swipe a Distro Box and plug it in.

Thanks and best of luck.

Curtis ash100

Eddiie · « **Reply #12 on:** December 14, 2020, 04:14:08 pm »

Thanks Curtis.

I have a new Power Distribution box coming. I took the old one out and opened it up. There is a power supply in there but inside, it mostly breaks out the AC to the different connectors.

Later, I will get a voltmeter and see what the output is, see if it lights the bulb. If it does, there is a wiring problem. This is definitely the power supply for the work light (at least). Only thing plugged in is the service light plug and the COMM input power (this power supply).

Eddiie · « **Reply #13 on:** December 14, 2020, 08:22:38 pm »

I put this thing on a voltmeter. The three-pin connector. With Ground from my meter on the middle pin, positive on the left pin I get 2.6 volts.

With the the Ground from my meter to the middle pin and the positive from my meter on the right pin, I get 7.7 volts.

Meter set to DC.

Not at all what I expected. Not sure what it should be, but I expected 5V on one pole and 12v on the other pole.

Or, maybe it is AC.

Off to do some digging in some manuals.

Does anyone know what the output is supposed to be?

Eddiie · « **Reply #14 on:** December 14, 2020, 08:33:13 pm »

Found it. According to a manual, it should be 5V @ 1.5 amp and 12V at 1 amp.

Now to run some continuity tests on the wire harness, check for shorts. If not, I will get a 12V 1amp power supply, plug it into the harness, and see if it lights the work light without blinking LEDs.

Eddiie · « **Reply #15 on:** December 14, 2020, 08:56:44 pm »

Good news. I did some continuity testing, no resistance really so I continued to connect a 9 volt battery to the three-pin connector (on the 12v side of the connector) that would connect to the PDU thing. The work light illuminated and the LED on the backplane stayed lit. So, looking forward to a replacement PDU. Then what? All seemed to go bad when I turned the power on. LOL

I know, I'll re-connect all the rest of the wires and stuff and see if the 9V battery still makes the work light illuminate. That will build up my confidence a bit.

Eddiie · « **Reply #16 on:** December 21, 2020, 01:14:04 pm »

I am still waiting on a new PDU. I got the wrong part. Got the big honking power supply, not the PDU.

However, using experience from Ash, I have proceeded without the 12V and 5V COMM lines for now. Slowly working around the backplane, testing, plugging. Everything is plugged in. Almost back in business. Back to the original problem, Stacker Door open. It is not the Cash box door open, it is the Stacker Door open.
Different switch I think. I've removed the BV cage and BV. I see there is a 3 pin connector that goes to this switch. I cannot find any mating connector for it.
Can someone confirm this connector is used? It is right next to the bigger power connector. 3 pins. Orange, Green, Red. Where does it go?

Eddiie · « **Reply #17 on:** December 21, 2020, 02:13:36 pm »

Cleared the Cash Box Door Open message by using a different cash box. It has NOTHING to do with the 3 pin connector in the back of the DBA housing.

Game is online!

However, still can't do anything, TITO isn't working. I assume it is because the +5 and +12 COMM is still down.
I must have 12V 1A and 5V 1A power laying around here somewhere. More later..

Eddiie · « **Reply #18 on:** December 21, 2020, 04:53:04 pm »

Ok, so I have a 12V 1a and a 5V 1a (USB power adapter thing) plugged in to the proper pins on the COMM power feed.
Currently both the status LEDs are lit. Going to hold here for a few hours before turning on the machine. heh

The work light is on!

Eddiie · « **Reply #19 on:** December 22, 2020, 12:57:47 pm »

Well, I worked my way up to having the machine on for several hours. Everything was online. Then the button panel decided to die on me.
All the buttons show SDCA or whatever. I've learned those are signal lines and it is showing you what signals are live. If one of them are missing, reseat the connector. Anyway, its like the controller has died altogether.

There are a group of LEDs in particular on the USB board on the left side. Only 1 (red) LED is lit. Are the others supposed to be lit too?

Speaking of controller, it looks like there is a few different firmware versions out there. Can someone help me get this controller up to the latest? Maybe it will help troubleshoot it at the same time.

Anyhoo, that is the latest on this machine. It works, just need buttons now.

I also fixed the old cashbox by cleaning the optics inside the box

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Author Topic: G20 What is going on? (Read 5375 times)