Author Topic: S2000 Haywire Info/Help needed (Read 5131 times)

Rob in AK · « **Reply #20 on:** February 17, 2021, 02:10:33 pm »

one more pic

Rob in AK · « **Reply #21 on:** February 17, 2021, 02:29:24 pm »

okay so i got pics up. Now on to questions.
1 - the board looks like is also has a yellow battery? do i need to change that one also? ill do the green one regardless. 2 - can someone please post a pic of the door i/o installed showing location & mounting. 3 - i assume the s2000's also use a clear & set chip? and i assume they are different from the s+?
I booted it this am and shortly after powering it up it went straight to RAM ERR msg. When I picked it up the seller said the BV stopped working.. the guy who sold him the machine showed to to fix it.. took a chip from the board and never returned.. seller also said he has tried different RAM himself with no luck.. I assume he has no clue what he was doing at all.
Once again thanks to all who is helping me through my first S2000.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #22 on:** February 17, 2021, 02:41:54 pm »

Best pictures yet! Good job!

1). I'd like you to tape up the end of that red wire please!

2). Do NOT pull out or install the main MPU with the power on at all.

3). Get a pair of small sharp pliers and cut the white plastic tie wrap nearest to the red wire and spread apart the wires in that area.

We need to see what someone was doing with that red wire.....I suspect they were trying to tap into some power or something.
But if you spread the wires apart and take a good picture of where they are attached to, we will be able to tell what to do next in that area.
I've highlighted below what were talking about.

Click on photo to enlarge if needed...>>>

Rob in AK · « **Reply #23 on:** February 17, 2021, 02:48:29 pm »

Yeah.. I was in a rush just to do what I did.. I will get that exposed wire dealt with next time I get time with the machine. Looks like that red wire was connected to that button closest to the lock cylinder. I forget what button it was. Ill have to look. Whats the 2 wire connector supposed to go to thats in the lock cylinder opening?That red wire looked to be tamper with along the door here and there. Taped up etc.. Seems to feed all the switches. But like i said i was in a hurry. Tonight I'll try to look and take a couple more pics.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2021, 02:52:05 pm »

Quote from: RobinAK on February 17, 2021, 02:48:29 pm

Whats the 2 wire connector supposed to go to thats in the lock cylinder opening?

It's part of the main door harness that runs to the door emitter optics.There are two optics that do this...an emitter optic on the door and a receiver optic on the cabinet to the right of the bill acceptor.
You will need a set of optics to make this machine work...but we're not sure yet but it was definitely modded to bypass the optics.

BTW Qbert was right in his Reply #9, I see the white Molex connector hanging down off the door panel next to the white VFD display board....that Molex connector is for the I/O card that controls the deck buttons communication back to the MPU.
The missing I/O card for the deck buttons is on the OTHER SIDE of that panel that Molex connector is hanging off from.

If you look behind that door panel under the buttons, you will see a 3-4 inch square box behind it with nothing in it?

I DO LIKE that your machine has backlight reels!

That makes the game much nicer when we get it up and working the way it should!

Again I stress, do not remove nor install any circuit board or connector with the power on.

These are too sensitive to power surges. and you'll end up with more problems and lost Benjamin Franklins lol

qbert · « **Reply #25 on:** February 17, 2021, 03:11:35 pm »

Good pictures from what I can see.
List of things:
Jackpot key and switch
Optics for door and cabinet.
Door I/O card.
Green battery remove and discard do not replace.
Coin battery replace**
Key and Clear chips

My thoughts: The machine stopped working probably from inability to get past please close main door. From there human intervention started making thing worse. First thing they tried to F with the door optic circuits. That is why the door wiring is all ripped up.
Jackpot key switch probably removed because he did not have a jackpot key to turn it with so he removed the switch and just shorted the wires when needed.
Removal of the door I/O card who knows.
From the above parts list the last thing you may need is a new MPU because I believe this is where the problem started.
Now for the good news even if you have to replace everything including the mpu you still have a very sought after haywire game title.
Could cost as little as $100 or at most $300 if you stick with the trusted vendors on this sight.
And after all the above is fixed then you can tackle the BV if required.
Rich

Rob in AK · « **Reply #26 on:** February 17, 2021, 06:52:27 pm »

Okay I made more time hahaha. This is what I see the red wire and the bk/rd wire both have heat damage at every switch connection and at the I/O connector. The I/O connector is toast. Yes the door I/O is not there for sure. The door optic is missing on the door. They were nice enough to put the screws for it in the door though. The optic in the cabinet is there. They cut the belly door switch wiring also. I'll post more pics.

Rob in AK · « **Reply #27 on:** February 17, 2021, 06:58:03 pm »

Couple more pics. So my list so far.

Door Wiring Harness
Door I/O
Door IR Switch
Jack Pot Lock & Keys ( Looks like there is supposed to be two?)
Key & Clear Chips
Battery

I'm wondering if I should just replace all the button switches due to the wiring getting hot at all the switches. I also did not know I could just remove the battery. Does this also apply to S & S+ machines?

rickhunter · « **Reply #28 on:** February 17, 2021, 07:15:52 pm »

The only battery you can remove is the green one (we call it the varta battery). The coin cell battery should probably be replaced as well. Most of us will put a battery holder in place to make future battery changes easier, and not have to bother de-soldering and soldering a new battery. On the S+ there is only 1 battery and that cannot be removed (you will get an error 12).

I would replace the entire wiring for the player panel, it is really FUBAR, whoever tried to fix it, made a VERY poor attempt at it. The switches are probably ok, not much to them to go bad, unless you see melted plastic or burnt contacts inside where the bulbs go, I wouldn't bother.

RB · « **Reply #29 on:** February 17, 2021, 09:04:52 pm »

Let's go back to this picture. The connector circled goes to J14 on the motherboard. Looks like something else is plugged in there. I don't really think I would even be trying to power on that machine until the wiring gets straightened out. That might be why you have burned wires now.

RB · « **Reply #30 on:** February 17, 2021, 09:17:06 pm »

The one plugged into J14 goes to J2. Looks like the one plugged into J2 with all the splices is a homemade harness. See where it leads to. They are both nextplex connectors so possibly no harm from that.

Rob in AK · « **Reply #31 on:** February 17, 2021, 09:21:15 pm »

Yes I see. Ill go look now. I missed that one.

RB · « **Reply #32 on:** February 17, 2021, 09:27:43 pm »

Quote from: RobinAK on February 17, 2021, 06:58:03 pm

Couple more pics. So my list so far.
Door Wiring Harness
Door I/O
Door IR Switch
Jack Pot Lock & Keys ( Looks like there is supposed to be two?)
Key & Clear Chips
Battery
I'm wondering if I should just replace all the button switches due to the wiring getting hot at all the switches. I also did not know I could just remove the battery. Does this also apply to S & S+ machines?

I have everything on your list so far. You do not need a second jackpot/attendant switch. The second one is used to convert a handpay to credits where allowed. Not needed for home use. I have a blank for the second hole.

RB · « **Reply #33 on:** February 17, 2021, 09:43:41 pm »

Quote from: RobinAK on February 17, 2021, 09:21:15 pm

Yes I see. Ill go look now. I missed that one.

My guess is that it goes to the top box printer. That was a cheesy way to hook up a printer if so. Lift out that top glass & shoot a picture of the wiring up there.

Rob in AK · « **Reply #34 on:** February 17, 2021, 10:02:36 pm »

Ok so the one that is pluged into j2 goes up to the ticket printer. the one that you circled goes down to what seems to be the hopper plug its just lying there as the machine has no coin in or hopper.

Rob in AK · « **Reply #35 on:** March 05, 2021, 07:05:57 am »

Just a quick update. Still waiting on the parts to arrive. Shipping times to AK is so long sometimes. Hopefully today is the day they show up. Would be nice to start on this machine over the weekend. I guess I will have to go to work today because that is where I have everything shipped to lol.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #36 on:** March 05, 2021, 08:45:59 am »

The machine looks setup for bills only....there's a jumper on the coin harness.
The chips look okay on the main MPU board...all inserted into their respective sockets in the correct orientation.

Later when you get home, turn it on and describe what is happening on the VFD display...that display will help tell us what's going with your machine. Watch it closely and take notes.

~~The more details you give us, the easier it will be to help you.~~

I must of missed about ten replies...disregard above.

Rob in AK · « **Reply #37 on:** March 07, 2021, 08:03:48 am »

Progress! Okay so got parts on Friday. Door wiring and I/O card battery etc all done. Have not done printer harness as I don't know how to hook it up correctly. No paper right now anyways. So I get it powered up. Got through the RAM error, got EPROM error and got through that, and eventually got to the reels spun and the display now say game over, insert coin etc. Seems like its happy. The bill validator lights are on. It takes in bills all the way but then rejects them. Its a WBA-12-SS FYI. Ive tried blowing out and cleaning the BV. No luck. Have not used clear or key chips at all up to this point. Wondering which direction to go fro here. Assume its a BV issue? or Do key chip and poke around in the settings first?

RB · « **Reply #38 on:** March 07, 2021, 08:57:20 am »

Likely BV issue. Test it with $1 bills in case it is not updated for all the latest bills. All dips should be in the off position. ID024 firmware for S2000. If you have another working WBA try swapping the head also.

Jim · « **Reply #39 on:** March 07, 2021, 09:34:45 am »

Test the Bill unit using the stand alone test mode, takes the uncertainly out of troubleshooting!

remove the cash can, all dip switches should be in the up position before you start, now, flip 1-2-3 and 8 down, install the bill unit in the machine, turn power on to the machine, now, flip #8 up,( while the unit is in place) the unit should briefly cycle, now you can insert bills into the unit, IF THE UNIT IS WORKING, IT WILL PULL THE BILL INTO THE UNIT AND DEPOSIT IT WHERE THE CASH CAN SHOULD BE.

you should be able to test any bill in the unit, this can also be used to determine what bills the unit will accept.

I wish a moderator would make a sticky out of this and add it to trouble shooting a WBA for operation? get tired of typing this over and over to help people troubleshoot their WBA.

Hope this Helps
Jim

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Author Topic: S2000 Haywire Info/Help needed (Read 5131 times)