Author Topic: IGT S2000 - Handle switch Need help (Read 3461 times)

billjonesohio · « **on:** February 24, 2021, 06:47:44 pm »

Please help - I cant use the handle and have resorted to nothing but the spin button(s)
[size=0pt][/size]
[size=0pt]1) [/size][size=0pt]I/O Tests[/size]
[size=0pt]4.1) Input Tests[/size]
[size=0pt][/size]
[size=0pt]4.1.2) Cabinet Input Test[/size]
[size=0pt] [/size]Slot Handle - Here I am experiencing 1 / 0 flashing back and forth rapidly.
[size=0pt]Just the other day the test worked fine...I've checked the switch with the multi-meter on both NO and NC positions...Seems fine.[/size]
[size=0pt]Solenoid functions perfectly fine and all tests and game play.[/size]
[size=0pt]Can any one help me? Have and idea whats up or where the Black & Black/red wires from the arm, switch connect to? Schematics? or ...?[/size]
[size=0pt][/size]
[size=0pt]Regards from Ohio!
[/size]

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2021, 07:05:47 pm »

Two orange wires with 2-pin black Molex connector go up to the solenoid in the top corner under the reel shelf.

The two black/red wires go to that microswitch behind the bill box you're talking about.

It's hard to test the microswitch with the billbox in the way....remove the bill box , check operation of handle microswitch and solenoid and re-install billbox later.

billjonesohio · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2021, 07:19:28 pm »

Thanks Stayouttadabunker...way ahead of you on this...Already had the entire mech. unit out and tested. Solenoid is OK...Game play on solenoid is OK too...Just wont make the micro switch actually spin the wheels...I Ohmed out the switch on the NO and the NC side...seems OK too.Scratching my head to understand if I am making a mistake.
If the switch Ohms out NO / NC...The it should work Right?
Do you know where the Blk and Blk-red wires land to for the Switch?

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2021, 07:21:35 pm »

You have your billbox out right now?If so, gimmie a good photo to here or my email
I do't wanna take out my billbox to see.
I'll look for some drawings tho

billjonesohio · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2021, 07:28:32 pm »

Hello Stayouttadabunker,Bill Box is now back inside. I actually can get the entire arm unit out of machine without removing bill box.(I'm kinda getting good at this)Your color coding is perfectly correct. Solenoid and switch both.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2021, 07:34:49 pm »

okay...the Black wire goes on the [NO] tab and the Black w/Red stripe goes on the [COM] tab.
You should see which tabs those are etched/imprinted/raised lettering on the side of the microswitch.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

billjonesohio · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2021, 07:40:16 pm »

Thanks buddy...You are correct, I've already checked that. Its exactly as you describe,,, The Test: [size=0pt]4.1.2) Cabinet Input Test - [/size]Slot Handle Results in a flashing 1 / 0 back and forth rapidly....Normally it should simply toggle from 1 to 0 and back again from pulling the handle and making the switch.But unfortunately it doesn't. and the spin never works, but solenoid does work just as designed...

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2021, 08:06:36 pm »

It works in conjunction with the spin button...maybe it's stuck closed?
It would screw with the logic signals.
Some decks have two spin buttons too...for a combination of three ways to spin the reels.

**Side-note**
There was a Star Trek game that used optical eyes to spin the reels as well by letting you pass your hand through some gadget that contained the optic eyes like on a door.

billjonesohio · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2021, 08:56:14 pm »

Thanx for your help...I just verified everything...No Luck.I guess in the AM I'll try out a different switch from another s+ machine or for that matter just swap the entire arm and solenoid mech assy...Perhaps ill see something different.
Oh...BTW... I did the testing for all door buttons within the I/O menus....all is good so that not the logic at the moment.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2021, 09:07:10 pm »

I would try one more thing tho.
Pull off the orange wired black 2-pin Molex connector from the solenoid.
Stick a multimeter on the two pins and with the machine on with some credits, press the spin button on the deck and see if the MPU is shooting power to the multimeter.

Set your multimeter for like 200 vdc and then try it with the meter set for 200 VAC.
If you're NOT getting any readings out of that 2-pin harness, then it's something in the machine set-up settings perhaps?
I've never had this problem so I'm not sure if there's even ANY settings that CAN change whether or not the handle can be used when you for example first BET a couple of credits then try to pull on the handle - to make the reels spin.

Now you've got me interested...haha...I'm going to try this....lol

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2021, 09:36:13 pm »

haha...You're NOT gonna believe what just happened!
I threw in a dollar to get 4 credits on my S2000 right?
Opened the door and pulled on the bypass to make the machine think the door is is closed and ready to play.

I then set my multimeter on 200Vdc, put the negative probe on the solid orange wire and the positive probe onto the Orange w/Purple stripe wire.
Then I Bet one credit on the button deck.
I only got 17-18Vdc....hmmm?

I checked the Orange w/Purple wire and discovered it was broken up about 10 inches away from the black 2-pin Molex connector.
I soldered the broken wire and put some heatshrink onto the newly soldered connection to protect the work.
I put the multimeter probes back onto the Molex pins and got 23.9 Vdc!!
Close enough to 24Vdc I'd say!

I played the single credit on the button deck and the reels spun while the mutimeter went to zero...like instantly.
When I Bet another credit on the Bet One button, the multimeter immediately shot back up to 23.9Vdc.
So.....now I was sure that the MPU is sending power down the lines whenever I placed a Bet.

Also, whenever I made a Bet, I could hear the handle solenoid engage....it makes a click noise when you depress the Bet One credit button.....and, it only makes that noise on the first Bet.
It doesn't make any noise if you bet more credits because the solenoid has ALREADY dis-engaged the handle pawl mechanism on the 1st press of the Bet One credit deck button.

I re-connected the Black 2-pin Molex back onto the handle solenoid and closed the door.
Made a Bet of one credit and pulled the handle....works perfectly!---as it should!

It possible to me now that either you have a broken Orange w/Purple wire, bad ground wire, or a bad solenoid or a bad microswitch or something is wrong mechanically with the handle not engaging the microswitch.

Best to pull that handle out completely and fully go over it's workings with a thorough inspection.

lookes · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2021, 06:01:47 am »

The handle switch is read by the cabinet I/O card (on the side of the MPU cage) on S2000's. Make sure the card is fully seated and good. (power off!)

billjonesohio · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2021, 03:01:41 pm »

Re seated cabinet IO and swapped the ""entire"" Arm Assy to another machine. No Luck...Uggghh!So at this point, I know it no the solenoid or the NO NC Switch. ( Thanx Stayottadabunker) and I guess at this point I can only assume something wnet wrong with the cabinet IO...Ugggh!
I looked at the voltages (Stayottadabunker) on the solenoid orange wires - I have the 24 vdc mentioned....Thanx for this...
If anyone has an idea....I am sure ready to listen at this point. again, I have to think its the cabinet IO pcb.Anyone have schematics to assist me on this?

Thanks all!!! - Still need help, but only the arm sw. isn't working, as described previously ( all else is good.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2021, 03:10:57 pm »

The two black wires from the microswitch runs back to the MPU I/O that's attached to the right side of the MPU box.

If you are sure the microswitch shows continuity on the NO and COM tabs ( no wiring attached) when you depress the microswitch's lever, then you need to at least check for continuity back to that I/O card connector on those two black wires.

Of course, when I'm talking about the two black wires...one of them has the red stripe.

If at any time you removed/installed that MPU I/O card while the power was ON, then it's quite possible you blew up that MPU I/O card.
It is so important NOT to remove/install any components like that with machine power ON.

The power surge is so great that you are blowing up power IC components on the cards/boards etc.etc.
I'm sure you know this, I do but I will admit, I've done it....

The Black w/Red Striped wire from the NO microswitch tab runs to the 2B pin on the MPU I/O card connector.
The other Black wire from the COM microswitch tab runs to the 7C pin on the MPU I/O card connector.

The only way to get a multimeter probe down into the MPU card connector holes is to dis-assemble the MPU I/O card mount completely.
Then you stick a needle into the holes to get contact with a multimeter probe.

The other probe at the microswitch tab and check for continuity on the multimeter.

I do believe that there are handle tests you can perform....if those tests work...then the problem might be on the harness running from the MPU I/O card back to the backplane under the MPU....or like you said...the I/O card itself.

You just gotta follow the trail....somewhere on those lines, something is broke.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #14 on:** February 25, 2021, 05:17:42 pm »

With the door open, put pseudo credit on machine. Now touch your handle switch wires and see if it spins. If it is coinless, disregard

billjonesohio · « **Reply #15 on:** February 25, 2021, 07:47:11 pm »

Hi all,It's coin-less...Thanks for that though...@ stayouttadabunker...Thanx buddy! this is exactly what i needed...I already checked the Blk/red wire to the PCB...Its good...Ill have to re - do re- verify the other black wire to pcb as you kindly provided....That means another removal of the entire arm assy....as I don't wanna take out bill box etc....It's just easier to removed the entire arm assy via. the 3 bolts so I can get to the wire leads of the arm switch again, and again,and again...ugggggh.

Once confirmed...I suspect the wires are good...probably the pcb...I'll certainly circle back to let everyone know. (political pun intended) I appreciate all the info and help FROM EVEYONE!

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #16 on:** February 25, 2021, 07:49:46 pm »

haha...Get another MPU I/O board....they're not expensive and it's good to have a spare anyways.

Jim · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2021, 10:11:22 pm »

two area's that could cause this. 1- the activation lever on the switch is bent out of shape and the handle action will not engage with the switch lever 2- the wires were on the wrong posts of the switch, top post is empty, next post is occupied, next post is occupied, doesn't matter which wire is on which post, one is common and the other N/0, so when the switch is activated it will complete the circuit.

Hope this helps

Jim

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2021, 10:51:43 am »

Another that happens is the spring-loaded pawl flips around and doesn't allow the the activation lever to come in contact with the microswitch lever.

You'll see whether or not the activation lever actually pushes the microswitch lever.

If it doesn't, then this is what you may have to do...>>>

Slightly release the 2nd spring with a screwdriver and let it engage two clicks on the pawl, then with another screwdriver, insert it thru a hole to get leverage on the spring-loaded pawl and flip it back around to the correct position.

The only way to fully understand this of course, is to remove the handle assembly and completely inspect how it works mechanically.

billjonesohio · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2021, 09:19:17 pm »

Well Thank YOU ALL! - - - I figured it out!I took the advice of Stayouttadabunker:Powered off and removed the Lower CAB I/O PCB. In my case the part number happens to be attached and = 75427601 Rev A
I used some small gauge wire wrapped around multi-meter leads and probed 2B and 7C on the female socket for the PCB (When removed).Kinda funny...I used my shoe to hold the arm in the downward position and sure enough CONTINUITY!!!!Toggled it back and forth...So the end result must be my CAB I/O PCB is bad.....Anyone know where I can get another??? 75427601 Rev A???
Thanks a lot to everyone who posted...
Bill - Ohio!!!

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Author Topic: IGT S2000 - Handle switch Need help (Read 3461 times)