Author Topic: S2000 display not working, low voltages on 13v, 25v power supply (Read 3977 times)

Spybryon · « **on:** September 15, 2021, 04:41:12 pm »

The display stopped working, and I'm getting low voltages on both the red 13v wire and orange 25v wire. Approximately half the voltage or so.

It's a IGT P/N 40009090 power supply. Anyone have the schematic for this supply board?

What's the likely culprit? I see a bridge rectifier on the board that's labeled PBU805. Do those go bad and given both output voltages are low, the likely cultprit or something else on the board? A schematic would help me narrow down the problem.

Spybryon · « **Reply #1 on:** September 15, 2021, 04:51:46 pm »

photos

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #2 on:** September 15, 2021, 06:49:52 pm »

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31351.0

Trisail · « **Reply #3 on:** September 15, 2021, 10:03:23 pm »

Thanks Tim.

Spy, check the link for the correct picture of your unit or use model number. Replace the caps, usually fixes them. Yours is semi working so caps should do it.

PM me if you have questions, need caps or want to send it to me.

Tony

Spybryon · « **Reply #4 on:** September 16, 2021, 11:20:56 am »

Thanks Sun and Tri.

So would you replace every single cap on the board ? Or any specific ones that usually go bad?

Also since both 13v and 25v is low, that might be a clue about which caps need to be changed because both "sides" of the supply are impacted. That's why a schematic would come in handy. There should be 2 different "sides" of the supply which are split somewhere to generate each voltage separately? Therefore since the problem is in both sides, so it's a common component to both. Or is that not how the supply board works?

jakah440 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 16, 2021, 12:20:59 pm »

Here is a Schematic i believe you are looking for.

http://slot-tech.com/interestingstuff/autec/Autec%20P.S..pdf

Trisail · « **Reply #6 on:** September 16, 2021, 02:12:51 pm »

With the schematic above you can troubleshoot if you like. In my opinion your supply is trying to work, and does. Major devices are working. Caps are the most common failure item in power supplies (and actually most other electronic devices) they 'dry out' over time. In a Switch Mode Power Supply the most important capacitor is the one for the switch mode/Pulse Width Modulation device that sets up the pulse timing. It is critical it be a certain value.

Did you see your supply in my pictures with the pointers to the caps with value and voltage? I believe you have MCP-8011.

If so, replace all of those. That usually fixes the supply. You probably don't need to replace the big main AC filter caps. I usually don't unless they read bad or I am questioning them.

Yes replace all of them as they are the same age. They have a lifetime limit.

If you want to just try to get it to work, you can usually change the cap for the SMPS/PWM device and that will get it to work. In your supply that would be the 100uf cap and 1uf cap. When these and the other caps go bad they don't filter out the AC ripple and that is bad for logic devices. If you are going to tear it down and replace those, best to do it once and do them all. Obviously it depends on your circumstances.

Again, feel free to PM me if you want. I can call or chat.

Tony

jakah440 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 16, 2021, 03:30:40 pm »

Yup what Tony said!

Spybryon · « **Reply #8 on:** September 30, 2021, 11:34:53 am »

Update: Replaced 5 capacitors : C16 (100 uf), C22 & C30 (330 uf), C24 & C29 (1000 uf)
Reason for only replacing those 5 caps was what I had on hand.

Had to order a replacement for C5 (4.7 uf) and C12 (1 uf) since I did not have those

Where to order the replacement 400v capacitors? I couldn't find those from my usual sources.

Update about the display problem:

Another used power supply was obtained off eBay and swapped into the machine. Output voltages all test good. The display backlight still did not work. Therefore I thought the inverter was probably bad so another inverter was obtained off eBay and I'm about to try the new inverter.

Also the 12vdc fan on the display board was inoperative. Obtained a replacement off eBay and about to replace the fan.

Trisail · « **Reply #9 on:** September 30, 2021, 11:54:39 am »

I have the caps.

C4 is the one that is usually completely toast. C5 is important too. (sorry about not mentioned that in the post above, was at work and busy......

)

You basically changed the filter caps. Not the critical timing/control circuit caps. The filter caps needed changed but would not bring a bad supply back to working. The others are the ones that would do that, and the ones you already changed would help keep the AC ripple out of the circuits feeding the machine.

PM me with your address I can ship some today if you want. Going to post office soon.

Cost would be very reasonable. We can take care of that in PM with other contact info.

Spybryon · « **Reply #10 on:** September 30, 2021, 08:51:34 pm »

Installed the replacement LS520 inverter today and that fixed the display! Had some trouble at first getting the plugs seated all the way down on the replacement inverter, the display didn't work until those were pushed all the way in.

Also got the replacement 12vdc mini fan for the display board installed. Wired it up to the original plug from the original fan. Soldered and heat shrinked the wires for a clean install.

Here's a photo of the original power supply with the 5 replaced caps.

Spybryon · « **Reply #11 on:** October 01, 2021, 06:58:53 pm »

Update: the display went dim again after working for about 24 hours. What could be going wrong so quickly? Does it mean the display backlight is broken?

Thinking I may need to really push down hard on all the plugs of the inverter using a needle nose plier. Maybe it didn't go all the way in and click into place, because the display was dim until I pushed the 2 edge plugs further in.

I need to confirm again, but when display went out I was able to see the normal display when shining a flashlight into the display. That's what lead me to change the LS520 inverter.

Spybryon · « **Reply #12 on:** October 01, 2021, 08:02:41 pm »

Anyone happen to have a pic with the cables fully seated in the LS520 inverter? Perhaps I'll see something different.

Trisail · « **Reply #13 on:** October 01, 2021, 08:58:28 pm »

The CCFL' s are probably bad. The new one could have helped, if the old one couldn't provide enough power to light the lamp(s), or the old inverter is bad, because the lamp(s) are bad.

You can replace the CCFL's. It takes a knack, but doable. Not too bad or hard, just helps to do one 1st. Check CCFL warehouse, I've dealt with them and a lot of good information on the site also.

Spybryon · « **Reply #14 on:** October 01, 2021, 09:25:56 pm »

Thanks, great info.

The monitor is a Sharp LQ10D421.

Was browsing the CCFL site and saw two different options for replacement:

https://www.ccflwarehouse.com/10lcdccbaasf.html
and this other one that says "in reflector rail":
http://www.ccflwarehouse.com/ccbaasforshl8.html

Do I want to get the one in reflector rail?

I supposed I can email them to ask the same question as well.

Trisail · « **Reply #15 on:** October 02, 2021, 10:43:51 am »

The reflector rail one would be much easier and less chance of breakage. I hate waiting for a second shipment when I break one.

Spybryon · « **Reply #16 on:** October 05, 2021, 08:09:08 pm »

Today I worked on changing the rest of the capacitors, after getting the rest of the ones I needed. Now all the electrolytic caps have been changed, except for the giant filter caps which are still original.

I'm thinking of bench testing it, though not sure what's the best way to do that? schematic is a little fuzzy, but looks like pin 24 goes to hot, pin 22 neutral and pin 11 gnd

I don't have a corresponding connector that fits CN1 so I'd have to wire something up perhaps with alligator clip wires. Any bench testing tips?

Trisail · « **Reply #17 on:** October 05, 2021, 09:45:48 pm »

I use mini grabbers and hook up like this. Black is line middle red is ground red is neutral. You have the pin numbers correct. Be sure pin 7 has about 6.2 vdc for the sin in signal (power good/ok)

If you don't have what you need, just reinstall in case and try it. If everything you did is correct, it should work. Double check for shorts, solder blobs and correct polarity of caps.

Here are the pin outs at this link. Everything you need is here on the forum.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31351.msg166079#msg166079

Spybryon · « **Reply #18 on:** October 24, 2021, 07:37:28 pm »

The CCFL arrived a while ago from CCFLwarehouse and finally installed them. The old CCFL were burnt up and had black marks in the tubes, and had overheated and melted stuff touching the old tubes. Now the display works again with the new tubes, nice and bright.

One of the reflectors was installed backwards on the new tube but made it fit anyway.

Never did get a chance to bench test the supply, but threw it in the game and both output voltages tested good.

Trisail · « **Reply #19 on:** October 24, 2021, 08:04:21 pm »

Excellent.

Those ccfl's usually fail that way. That's been my experience.

Glad you got it working! The ccfl's are sure cheaper than a display.

And not all that hard to replace. Takes a little patience and a bit of disassembly. Ok maybe a lot of patience

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: S2000 display not working, low voltages on 13v, 25v power supply (Read 3977 times)