Author Topic: Possessed IGT S-Plus Haywire Deluxe Help! (Read 4013 times)

Tom Bera · « **on:** November 28, 2021, 11:29:05 am »

I have a IGT S-plus Haywire Deluxe that's doing some crazy things and hoping someone can help get it back to life.

#1 No LED display
#2 No candle lights
#3 Reset key does nothing when turned
#4 Reels turn slowly when powering up machine, sometimes one will turn other times two sometimes all three
#5 The F2 fuse gets hot
#6 Loud static from the speaker on start up other times nothing
This is a machine that I just bought so I don't know any history on it. I don't have a manual yet but I have ordered one.
Any clues with the info I have listed would be greatly appreciated. This is my second slot the other was a Bally and with the help on NLG I
got that one going. Hoping all had a great Thanksgiving and wishing a Merry Christmas Tom Bera

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #1 on:** November 28, 2021, 12:34:25 pm »

#1 No LED display
Check the three fuses for continuity.
You better own a mutimeter and know how to use it if you want to fix slot machines.

#2 No candle lights
Check the lamps for continuity with a multimeter

#3 Reset key does nothing when turned
Check the wiring tabs to the jackpot reset switch for proper connection.

#4 Reels turn slowly when powering up machine, sometimes one will turn other times two sometimes all three
Show us a high resolution photo of your MPU and motherboard.
I particularly want to see how the chips are installed in the sockets.
There's no way your reels should be acting like this unless something is majorly screwed up.

#5 The F2 fuse gets hot
What is it's amperage rated at?
It should be stamped on the fuse itself.
The three fuses from top to bottom are 6amps, 8amps, and 6amps.
Use quick blow fuses only.

#6 Loud static from the speaker on start up other times nothing
Not important right now.
What IS important is trying to get your machine up and running the way it should be.
Get your camera out and start taking some pictures.
Let's see how much corrosion there is.

Tom Bera · « **Reply #2 on:** November 28, 2021, 01:33:39 pm »

#1Fuses are all good
#2Candle continuity good
#3Checked connections and switch operation
#4pictures listed
#5 8 amp but is a time delay, no one open here today to get a quick blow.

I thank you for the reply, I was a Cadilac Master tech for 33 years so a multi-meter was grown to my right hand.

I forgot to mention in the one pic it looks as if a diode was hot and removed.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2021, 03:29:06 pm »

Quote from: Tom Bera on November 28, 2021, 01:33:39 pm

I forgot to mention in the one pic it looks as if a diode was hot and removed.

Bingo...get a diode soldered in there or another working MPU

Tom Bera · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2021, 05:59:02 pm »

Do you know what the diode rating is? I have ordered a manual but I don't know if will give the specs for it. Thanks Tom

Tilt · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2021, 07:03:31 pm »

D3 is a 1N6373.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2021, 07:27:44 pm »

Someone's been messing with that board....I'd put up an WTB ad for another MPU...but you have to be a contributing member to do that.

Tom Bera · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2021, 08:26:36 pm »

Thanks, That is what I was thinking. When I get another board do you know what chips are in it and will I need to transfer mine. Do you think they could be damaged as well? Thank you Tom Bera

Tom Bera · « **Reply #8 on:** November 29, 2021, 05:30:40 pm »

Good evening, Just for the heck of it I wanted to check the voltages at the power supply box. The fuses are good but I thought perhaps one section of the transformer may be out. The label says F1 is supposed to be 24 vac but I only read 12 volts. Is this correct or am I just as they say peeing up a rope. The other two voltages are what the label says they should be. Thank you Tom Bera

Tom Bera · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2021, 08:55:35 am »

Good morning I have a question about the voltage on the the fuses. F3 says 120VAC and I read that at the fuse. F2 says 8VAC and that is what it reads. F1 says 24VAC but I only have 12VAC. Is this correct or is there a problem? If so what could be wrong? Thanks Tom Bera

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2021, 09:40:43 am »

The three fuses from top to bottom should be 6amps, 8amps, and 6amps.

They'll all be rated for 250v and quick blow type.

Where are you putting your multimeter probes on exactly?

Tom Bera · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2021, 10:07:49 am »

Negative on case and positive to both sides of the fuse also I put the negative in the neutral on the auxiliary plug and the positive on the fuse.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2021, 11:46:15 am »

If you become a contributing member, you'd be able to download some schematics from NLG.

Basically, I think the 24VAC is derived from a pair of 12's on separate lines.

I'm not sure but when you throw a multimeter onto the motherboard power pins from the power supply box, you'll see two grounds and two 12 volt lines.....I think on the orange and green wires...I don't remember offhand.

Tom Bera · « **Reply #13 on:** November 30, 2021, 01:45:04 pm »

I have 12 volts on each of the orange wires at the mother board, but still only read 12 volts at the 24 volt fuse. I pulled the wires off the 24 vac fuse and had 12 volts on each side, what am I missing? The one lead on the fuse comes from the mother board the other comes (I think) from a tap on the back of the transformer. I would have to pull the connector holder off to see and my flashlight went dead.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #14 on:** November 30, 2021, 08:38:54 pm »

I don't know if this will help you?

Click on photo to enlarge if needed...>>>

Tom Bera · « **Reply #15 on:** November 30, 2021, 08:50:12 pm »

I am going to check in the AM, thanks what does 24 vac ct and 24 vac return mean? Sorry they are terms I have not seen or was used in automotive work. Thanks Tom

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #16 on:** December 01, 2021, 07:12:52 am »

Quote from: Tom Bera on November 30, 2021, 08:50:12 pm

I am going to check in the AM, thanks what does 24 vac ct and 24 vac return mean? Sorry they are terms I have not seen or was used in automotive work. Thanks Tom

I have no idea Tom....these are slot machines...not cars?

All I know is that "vac" means "Volts Alternating Current"

Let me ask you a question...>>> What's wrong with your machine?

Tom Bera · « **Reply #17 on:** December 01, 2021, 09:09:16 am »

I am trying to repair no display on winner paid, coin paid, credit, no candle illumination, pushing reset button does nothing, turning key does nothing. In my last post you said the missing diode on the circuit board could be the problem. I replaced it with the suggested diode and it did nothing. That is when I found only 12 volts on the 24 volt fuse. I don't know if that's the problem but I don't think it's right and a possible answer.

Tilt · « **Reply #18 on:** December 01, 2021, 04:35:49 pm »

12VAC on that fuse is fine. I've attached an S+ Main wiring diagram. The power transformer is on the upper left. CT is a center tapped tranformer as you can see in the drawing. If you measure from Pin 5 to 6 or 5 to 4 you'll read 12VAC. If you measure 6 to 4 you'll see 24VAC. Hope that helps.

Tom Bera · « **Reply #19 on:** December 02, 2021, 10:33:12 am »

You where right ontarget with that answer thank you. One more if I may the next fuse down the 8 vac, when the fuse is in place I read 0 on it, if I remove the fuse I read 8 vac on one side. Is that normal or is something pulling that circuit down? If so what should I look at Thanks Tom B

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: Possessed IGT S-Plus Haywire Deluxe Help! (Read 4013 times)