IGT G23 LED Dynamic Button dilemma

[meggaman101]

How do i get my button board working again ,

Ive replaced --

ribbon cable / daughter board
cabinet controller
hdmi cable

the settings on the daughter board are correct
everything is seated properly ,
the lights on the cabinet controller board say the settings are right
the daughter board is set to the 14 button configuration ,

ive re loaded the gameking os onto the machine
i have the ekey 7 and diagnostic key

i also have a button firmware programme on a drive but not sure how to use this 
my machine has the show chips .

any advice to get up and running again would be appreciated ,
ive attached a video of the display on the buttons

[Tilt]

Your link to the video isn't attached.

[meggaman101]

too tough to get the video up onto here , i posted a pick instead

[Tilt]

What's the history behind it?  Did you change some buttons and then it quit working?  Bought it this way? 

[meggaman101]

I was having trouble keeping the ribbon cable seated on the buttons , then the troubble started i was trying to get the buttons working while the machine was running
then all the buttons started flashing and the edje lighting on them stopped working , ]
so i ordered a new cabinet controller , ribbon cable / daughter board , hdmi cable ,
thought i had all bases covered , still not working
i swapped the show chip over to the new cabinet controller board ,
someone on a old post somewhere said that mabie a re flash of firmware is needed ?
would be great if someone knew about this prob

[meggaman101]

shows button panel ID tilt too

[Tilt]

Ok, well that's unfortunate.  I'm not sure what component(s) is likely to be damaged by removing the cables while the power is on.  I just know mine has a warning sticker not to do it. 

It sounds like you've already swapped a lot of the possible bad components.  The show "chip" (BIOS) is the proper term is actually two chips, one on the CPU motherboard, the other on the the PCI card (Boot 1 and Boot 2). 

I think what you're referring to is the button controller EEPROM (small 8 pin IC) on the cabinet controller?

Hopefully someone who has had this problem will chime in and help.  I'm sure you're not the first one who has done it and likely won't be the last.

[meggaman101]

yep was the 8 pin chip that i swapped over , could that chip possibly be the problem ?

[Tilt]

Possible, yes.  Probable, no I don't think so.  You did get the orientation correct when you swapped it though didn't you,  Pin 1 to Pin 1?

[meggaman101]

yep i put the boards next to each other and kept the chip the same way

[Tilt]

Alright.  I'm out camping for a few days and don't have access to my machine or some of my other documents.  It may be a cabinet controller issue.  I'll check my documentation when I get back home, but hopefully someone will be able to help before then. 

[meggaman101]

kk thanks Tilt , have a fun camping trip

[gunnerbill]

Good Morning, I haven't played with a G23 in awhile, But do remember the Dynamic Buttons can be a pain. Looking at your photo of each button, I can see different address and version numbers. This tells me the controller is not doing its part and most likely is your problem. It needs to be flashed to the newest firmware. But because you changed a few things, lets make sure they are correct. Something to remember.. just because you replaced the part doesn't mean it is good. There has been many a time I've purchased replacement parts only to find them part were bad. If you need files or Bins, I have them.

Buttons
The dynamic buttons “CSDA” display = The term “The “CSDA” display” represents a button that is not getting full communications. It can be any combination of C, S, D or A. Whenever one or more of these show up on the
display, the address and version number will appear as well.
If there is no communications it will show its address plus version # and what signal it thinks it’s not
seeing. The display will alternate between a black background and a yellow background in this
mode.
If the “C” is shown, the Clock signal not present.
If the “S” is shown, the Strobe signal not present.
If the “D” is shown, the Data from Controller to Button not present.
If the “A” is shown, the addressed button has not been specifically talked to.
     Each button will show the address it thinks it is at. It is important that the buttons show the correct address or a button tilt will occur.

 Remember that the Dynamic Buttons are not Hot-Swappable. Always Power down when removing or replace Dynamic Buttons.

Troubleshooting
I know you stated you replaced various parts, The  Dynamic Button system has 7 major parts. Power Harness, USB Cable, HDMI Cable, Controller, Flex PCB board, Flex Harness, Dynamic Buttons.

It is safe to say not to worry about the cables, just what is bold above. now elimination. The dynamic Buttons are lit and displaying info so that minus Buttons & Flex Harness. For the Flex PCB board, make sure all the dip switches are the same to the old one replaced, this is important. This ID's what type of panel it is!! if it is, then the Flex PCB board is not the problem. The FLEX harness must be seated securely to the HDMI to FLEX PCB. On the G23v2, there is LED lights (center top by yellow handle) that will match what the Flex PCB board dip switches are set to. That how I would check as a quick reference.

Controller
Note:  You must have FI “FI014-BT14DYN1-02” Loaded and installed On the controller board look for LED Lights, DS1(14v), DS9(3.3v), DS1(24v) are lite green. DS6, when first booting up will flash red then will turn green if it stays red, bad Blackfin Boot Chip or bad USB cable or not plugged in. DS3,4 &5 will be on and green

Next the controller.....
-DIP SWITCHES.   That red board (G20 & g23v1) has a 4 position dip switch also make sure it is the same, For G23v2, on the main controller board those dip switches are are close to the Blackfin chip. Normally 1,2,3,&4 are off. When I was testing boards and buttons, I would place dip switch 4 to "ON", that would place buttons in test mode and allow me to test button brightness and edge led pattern.
   Programming BlackFin Boot Chip
- Blackfin Boot Chip (U3) MUST have BFDB00004 (or above version, I believe BFDB0018 is available, you may see an "E" at the end, that means English version) flashed to it using an EPROM burner. Info: BlackFin Boot Chip is a SOIC8 type chip (Spansion S25FL040A)

With system on and power to the button controller board, connect the Controller Board USB cable to your computer.  Using the IGT CSV109, CSV111 or CSV113 computer windows program
(XP or Vista), When the program loads, it will see the device Firmware Upgrade
(Dynamic Button BFB0000x) .   
            a. Click on device, (it will highlight item selected)
            b. Click Select File. (Choice file BFDB00xxx.bin )
            c. Click Download. (This will start to download to controller board)
            d. Unplug power to the button panel board. Wait 2 – 3 seconds and plug power back in.
Wait for the board to boot. You MUST manually load the drivers for each device (the button panel controller board) for the program to "see" the board.
            e. Click on device, (it will highlight item selected)
            f. Click Select File. (Choice file BFDB00xxx.bin )
            g. Click Download. (This will start to download to controller board)
            h. Unplug power to the button panel board. Wait 2 – 3 seconds again and plug power back in. Wait for the board to boot. And everything should be working.

Once flashed, the board will reboot check all LED Lights. this should solve your problem

[meggaman101]

thanks for all the info , ill see if i have a old laptop and the right program in my junk piles ,
looks like i have alot of work to do and will let you guys know how it goes

[meggaman101]

Ive got it going again , thanks for all the help ,
i have one button that was malfunctioning but swapped it out with a old one with no grafix on it ,
but the reprogramming worked
lesson learned , don't mess with the buttons while the machine power is on 

[CasperBelize]

Just something i have found with my machines over the years. If drinks are spilled on the button it can seep down to the ribbon cable connection. It does not have enough current to corrode the connections but it does cause some capacitance between the data lines and will cause addressing issues during power up. I have never had to replace a ribbon cable but new buttons sometimes will double address with another button. Contact cleaner spray and a soft toothbrush has always fixed my address issues. This is when you get two #12's or two buttons register as #6. 
( i have also seen buttons not addressing at all because of this )

Hope this post saves someone some time and frustration.

Cheers!