Voltage at the top of the arm assembly of Bally 1090?

[ChickenDave]

Any one out there know what the voltage is at this coil? I get about 56 volts. The coil has resistance but it does not pull in.

[shortrackskater]

Moved to Bally Electromechanical
~moderator

[slcjeeper]

The coil runs on the 50v circuit, so close to that is good. For the best reading, place the black lead on the yellow lug of the transformer and red to the orange lug of the coil.

If the armature does not pull in, you’ll need to trace the white/yellow wire of the coil back and until the fault is found. Some places to check are the dashpot switch, the reel mech Beau plugs, the coin relay switches at the bottom left rear of the reel mech.

[wolftalk]

The coil runs on the 50v circuit, so close to that is good. For the best reading, place the black lead on the yellow lug of the transformer and red to the orange lug of the coil.

If the armature does not pull in, you’ll need to trace the yellow wire of the coil back and until the fault is found. Some places to check are the dashpot switch, the reel mech Beau plugs, the coin relay switches at the bottom left rear of the reel mech.

in case it's not clear, the first sentence is checking the 50V power to the coil.   

the second sentence is a separate thing.

if you stuck your meter probes on the coil lugs and measured 56VAC but the armature didn't pull down onto the coil top, either the coil is bad or you have a mechanical issue and the thing won't move (not likely).

unfortunately, the handle release coil is on a circuit you can't easily isolate to measure its resistance.  Easiest thing is unsolder the white/yellow wire from the coil then measure the coil resistance.

the new coil part number for a E-184-224 is F-31-2100 (31 gauge wire, 2100 turns around an F spool).

if the coil is open because the coil wire broke at a lug, you have a 50-50 chance you can unwrap a turn of wire, gently scrape off the insulating varnish and reattach it (leave a little slack so the wire can shift around).   

it's 50-50 because one end of the coil wire is on the outside of the winding, the other end is the one that started the winding on the spool and is usually got so many layers on top of it you can't unwind a turn. 

'course, if desperate you could unwind the entire thing and rewind it ... a power drill is very handy for that.  The trick is to unwind onto some other kind of spool so the wire doesn't tangle. 

as time goes on, desperate may be normal.  The coil is getting hard to find, tho a G spool coil with similar gauge/turns can be substituted.  The G spool is a little shorter, so you can shim it up with a washer if needed - but usually it works as-is.

[DavidLee]

Like Wolftalk mentioned.
"the coil is open because the coil wire broke at a lug, you have a 50-50 chance you can unwrap a turn of wire, gently scrape off the insulating varnish and reattach it (leave a little slack so the wire can shift around)."

Check the small leads from the coil at the solder joints. They sometime appear to be connected as the breaks are very hard to notice and or there’s a cold soldering joint.
Also check the armature plate and the release mechanism by manually operation to eliminate any problem
with the mechanical components.

[ChickenDave]

Well at this point it doesn't matter. I found that line two on the power coming in was not hooked up. When I brought it to ground it tripped my GFI and I lost secondary power from my transformer. I will be shelving this machine for a while. Thanks for all the advise guy's. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.