Bally 831-ZF

[61Wally]

A Fantastic day to All of You. I’m having a problem with the hopper continuously spinning when a jackpot hits. I got 3 bars and it empties the hopper. Any suggestions where I should start. This happened after a nice 110V zap top my hand from the top sign where the crimp connectors were dry-rotted, (pictured).
When I shut the machine off, 5-8 seconds later I hear a relay/ contactor opening. Also Noticing None of the outer bulbs illuminate the stars on the top glass.
Thank You All for posting Some Very helpful information.

[wolftalk]

the outer stars on the top glass flash when you get a 777 win.

for that to work, you need to have a 555 flasher lamp installed in a socket on the top insert board.  The circuit uses the 555 lamp to control a 6V relay and when a switch on the 6V relay toggles closed the star lights turn on in sync with the 555 lamp turning on.

the 6V relay is the oddball one mounted on the back of the lamp panel in the top compartment.  Yellow and red/yellow wires on the coil lugs.

if a bar win is dumping the hopper, that would usually mean the payout counter isn't stepping up.  The safety timer should eventually time out and shut down the machine ... if the safety timer is working (it's the thing near the transformer with the red light cover on it).

anyway, set up a bar win (spin reels and grab the fan blade on the left side of the reels, then you can position reel 1 and left go of the fan until reel 1 latches.  Grab fan and repeat for reels 2 and 3).

after the hopper turns on and a couple coins come out, turn off the machine and pull out the hopper to see where the wipers are on the payout counter ... they should be a couple steps up from reset (reset is 6:00 position of wipers).

the game usually has a mechanically stepped payout counter, so when a coin ejects the payout counter should step.   If not sure, post pics of the hopper and payout counter.

probably worth opening the door and turning off the power to see where the delayed relay unpowering sound is coming from (door, hopper, etc.). 

[61Wally]

WOW, You just provided me with some Great advice on where to begin. Thank You for sharing Your knowledge/time with me. I will post the Outcome/Pictures and find that delayed relay as well.

[61Wally]

I stopped the fan and moved the reels how You suggested. When I turned the machine off pulled hopper and put it back in, The hopper kept sending Quarters out. It will stop as soon as I trigger the Coin in switch below the coin mech. I noticed before when it was working correctly I had to close the switch on the lower right side to allow the coin mech to work. Now I don’t need to when this issue arose. It’s reading  closed on my VOM. One other thing is None of the 3 coin meters register anything. Sorry if I’m sending information that isn’t helpful.

[61Wally]

I want to THANK YOU SIR WOLFTALK SO MUCH. You sent Me down the exact path needed to figure out what to look for. I noticed quite a few moving parts are in need of being lubricated. Behind the Wheel is a lever to reset the “fingers” back to factory settings. I tried it several times and with 3 bars and it paid out 10-18 quarters. Then I tried it while pushing down slightly on coin counter arm,(pictured) and the hopper dispensed All 20 quarters. This is the Only mechanical machine that I have now in the 72 machines I have  I’m going to clean up theses mechanisms up and grease them up again. I’m thinking I can use the same grease as what I used on a Bally 850 along time ago.
I’m Very Thankful for All the help the NLG Members offer me in Enjoying My hobby. Absolutely the Nicest Folks I’ve ever encountered in My life, Regards
Dan

[wolftalk]

sounds like you're on top of it.

grease is one of those "ask 10 people, get 20 opinions" things.  Personally, I prefer cleaning off the old grease and using tri-flow lubrication (squeeze bottle).  The only place I use an NLG-2 style heavy grease is maybe on the big gears on the right side of the reel mech and the handle box.

problem with heavy grease is eventually it will cake up, tho the synthetics will last many more years.  Definitely avoid white lithium grease.

on the contact plates - like the payout counter - I use nutrol control cleaner (https://bingo.cdyn.com/techno/overhaul/magic_ring/chemicals.html).  If you prefer something thicker/tackier like super-lube, the key is an invisibly thin layer so you don't slow down the wipers.

the roller arm the coin lifts is height adjustable via a couple screws.  You more-or-less stick a coin under the roller and adjust the height so when the link bar is pushed all the way down, the spring connecting the roller arm to the link bar is compressed a little.

generally tho, if the roller is too low the hopper will jam, and if it's too high the game will overpay as some coins may not cause the payout counter to step up.

the 831-ZF was made for silver nugget casino.  The paperwork for a bally generic 831-ZE will be almost the same - and may be exactly the same circuit-wise.  The only difference between the ZE and ZF I know about is the ZE used 20 stop symbol sizes on the reel tapes while the ZF used 25 stop symbol sizes.

sometimes there's minor differences between models in things like when the bell rings or the presence/absence of electronic door locks, tower lights, etc.

you can find the 831-ZE docs in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/

[61Wally]

I’m learning So much about this machine, Thank You for sharing Your knowledge/experience with these. Do You know if the motor is a 110VAC. I don’t see any markings on it? The hopper is in good shape, Just want to lubricate those items that You mentioned.

[wolftalk]

yup, the motors are 120V.

the transformer can be wired to reduce 220/240V to 120V.

some motors have a 50Hz and 60Hz lug on them, so you connect as appropriate for the power in your country. 

with the old style hopper like you have, you can test things mechanically by attaching a drill to the shaft of the motor armature/rotor and spinning it.  That'll spin the pinwheel in the hopper.

you can also jumper 120V directly to the motor lugs if you want to run the hopper out of the machine.  Ideally, use a power strip with a breaker in it.  If the motor is bogged down due to dirt/dried grease, then the current draw will go way up and pop the breaker.

wrt lube, never get lubrication inside the solenoids (coils with the hole that plungers go into).  The plunger and coil sleeve should be clean and dry.  Bally was nice - there's a nylon collar around the plunger so it slides in the metal or plastic coil sleeve easily - lubrication just gunks that up.

I don't lubricate anything plastic on metal (e.g. the white plastic ratchets/gears on the stepper units like the payout counter).  While it won't hurt (except inside the solenoids), it usually creates more long term trouble than it's worth.  Metal-on-metal is ok to use lubricants - sparingly.

[wolftalk]

the outer stars on the top glass flash when you get a 777 win.

btw, there were 831 variants that did different things with the lights,

for example, on the 831-ZZSH there was a motor-driven unit in the top compartment that turned on during payout.  The wipers on that unit spun continuously and caused some of the lamps to light/flash in sequence. 

I'd guess the epilepsy sufferers convention went to a different casino ...

[DavidLee]

Had a similar machine that shut down on a 777 jackpot.
Which switched on the star lights indicating the jackpot.
Also preventing a player from adding more coins and playing off the jackpot.

Most likely flasher bulbs are installed in your machine.