Bally 809 hopper Rectifier?

[Sansome]

First post, I’ve been working on em pinballs for over 20 years, I have 10 machines and 6 of them- are on location for the public to play. For the last 2 months, I’ve been eyeing this slot machine at my friend’s antique mall booth, last Monday I made a cash offer and hauled the slot machine home. Without any research, I was hoping that it was a Bally em, after an hour of drilling, I was in. How thrilling it was, when I saw those familiar Bally coils, I spent 2 nights cleaning and adjusting switches - cleaned and lubed the steppers and got the machine functioning, I suspect this machine was slightly sabotaged, I found 2 cut wires and some obvious miss adjusted switches. I got sloppy, the hopper ran out of quarters- I should have unplugged it, but instead- I pulled the hopper and filled it with quarters and put it back in (power on)
The quarters started coming out of the hopper with the door open- a quarter bounced and went behind the coil- right over both coil lugs. It didn’t short until a day later, while it was paying out- what I think is a rectifier? It got smoked, luckily it was midnight and my wife was asleep. I have rectifiers on my Bally pinballs, but never had a problem with them- what kind is it and where can I get a replacement?

Thanks in advance for any help- I have another problem with the reel and arm pull action, seems to be out of adjustment, but I’ll leave that for another topic. I’m 54 and my father was a big Vegas guy- I saw these machines my whole early life and I’m afraid that I’ve fallen down the em slot machine rabbit hole, just like the pinball pit I’ve been in…. For years now.

[Sansome]

More pics

[Chris-socal]

Hello and welcome to NLG.

Lots of helpers here.

I’m having a really tough time seeing the component clearly. The picture is either compressed too much or the picture is out of focus. Someone more familiar with that machine might know offhand.

You will probably have to remove the power board anyway so maybe you should do that now and get us a good clear picture. It’s also possible the component has a part number stamped on it.

Chris

[Sansome]

Thx, I’m having trouble downsizing the photos from my phone- making them small enough to meet the forum limits….need to get another computer- it is a rectifier that basically exploded- there’s nothing left of it. It’s a rectifier that’s connected to the switch stack at the bottom of the hopper- the first switch stack that’s visible when you open the door- maybe I can send a FB message, or Instagram message to someone? I’ll try and find another one like it on the machine.

[Sansome]

I believe I should be saying a diode

[Chris-socal]

Oh, I see it now, the second pic has better detail, wow it vaporized! Lol
Hopefully someone who has one of those machines can look at theirs. There might even be a schematic in the file system.
We have many members who only log in occasionally so hopefully someone will see this who can help.

Chris

[wolftalk]

1N4007 diodes are ok ... the ones people commonly have laying around are 1N4004 or 1N4007.  Either is fine.  Originally it was a 1N2070 diode ... which is obsolete.  Bally changed to 1N4007 in the delay relay circuit in the late 1970's.

however, the remains look like there's a yellow band on the end, so the vaporized part is likely the 47 ohm, 1W resistor.  The diode would be in series with the resistor - sometimes covered in tape or other insulator, but kinda looks like the diode is the small yellow thing that is still there.

you can email highest possible resolution ("actual size" - largest file size) pics to slotpics@cdyn.com if ya like.  As many pics are you want - especially the internals ... I'll add them to the web site below.

if you still have the model/serial number plate on the cabinet below the handle, what does it say?   The basic machine style is "lightning", meaning it just has bar, bar/5 and 7 symbols.

paperwork for an 809-N will be close to what you have ... see https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ - you'll definitely be familiar with the schemaic if you have bally EM pinballs :-)

if your belly glass is correct, then model 809-ZZC was a lightning machine made for the showboat casino ... but the chance of finding the schematic for that specific machine is extremely low.  Typically the difference between lightning models is when the bell rings and whether there are tower lights on top.  Occasionally there will be something like an electric door lock.
 

[Sansome]

Excellent- thanks for the info, sounds like I should remove the black tape next to what’s left of the diode.
You say- someone here should have one laying around in their parts?
I have some Bally parts, maybe 2 dozen coils and switches, most of my spare parts are gottlieb.
My machine doesn’t have a bell, I’ll email you those pics and just a guess- when would a machine like this get pulled out of the show boat casino- I don’t believe that’s a casino that I ever went to, my father-in-law tells me that that’s where people that lived in Vegas went to gamble?

[wolftalk]

I think you need a 47 ohm, 1 watt resistor.

the diode is still there and probably survived.  If you have a multimeter, it usually has a diode mode.  When you put the probes on the ends of the diode, you should get infinite.  Swap the probes and you should get something in the .4-.7V range.

the resistors are standard electrical parts you can get cheap from amazon ... or if patient aliexpress.com.  You can get some 1N4007 diodes just in case ... the packaging costs more than the diodes :-)

since you probably don't need 50+ resistors the same value, you could get the cheapest kit you can find that has 47 ohm ... like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/ALLECIN-Resistor-1-Resistors-Assortment/dp/B0BYZBS2ZC

just make sure you get 1W (or higher) resistors.

I'll look and see if I left a 1W resistor kit at the pacific pinball museum tomorrow ... if I did and it has a 47 ohm, I'll grab one and a diode and mail them to ya.

the local casinos and downtown probably ran the EM slots longer than the strip casinos, but when they got pulled I dunno.

[Sansome]

Nice, thanks for leading me in the right direction- can I just solder it in, like any pinball fix that I do, or is there something special I have to do? Now If I can just figure out how to get the reel kick right- at the moment, I have to gently coax the arm, click by click- then the reels will kick off like there supposed to, if I hurry it- cu clunk, one or 2 reels might move to the next position. I have the owners pictorial guide, but the reels are giving me fits- anyhoo, that’s another problem.

I’ll email those photos

[Sansome]

I took the black tape off and the diode looks fine, I ordered 50 of those resistors for $5 something.
Update on the reel kickoff- the trip lever drive shaft was set way too long, like a half inch long, it works like it should. Onto grease, is there anything off the shelf I could go out and buy? Thanks for all the help and many thanks in advance.

[wolftalk]

grease discussions even conspiracy theorists won't touch :-)

personally, I use stuff like tri-flow lubricant with ptfe since it leaves a film rather than globs that will eventually cake up.

if you wanted to use a heavy synthetic grease like magnalube-G, I'd only use that on high force parts like meshing gear teeth in the handle/windup and maybe the ledges on the latch pawls (the pivoting things that hold back the reel wiper arms until the latch links slide forward and push on them to release the arms).

no grease in the in the clock gears ... that needs triflow or other lightweight oil

[Sansome]

Thanks, someone went to town with the grease gun on this machine, looks like grease on the clock gears and they even greased the big plastic gear on the coin unit stepper, do I have to order this magnalube-g grease, or can I get it over the counter somewhere?

[wolftalk]

magnalube-g is just a synthetic grease ... it was recommended for inside gearboxes on multiproducts motors, so that's why I have some which I ordered from amazon.

any grease will work, it's just a question of how long before it hardens.  I avoid the question by not using it :-)

I'd definitely avoid white lithium grease ... that hardens too quickly.

I spent a few hours last month disassembling and cleaning the reel mech on a machine - only way to really get the old grease off.  I used tri-flow lubricant (squeeze bottle version) instead of grease.