Does anyone have the service manual for a Universal 8304 video poker machine?

[63mini]

Christmas in May! Wow. Do I have to bring out the decorations again? 

 

 No, we don't want to see you wearing those again! However, Jim didn't even ask for my address....    But it's very nice of him to help out a member in need!  We look forward to electronicsguy getting this going again.

[Pitts256]

I've uploaded the Universal Video Poker Service Manual in the NLG file system under Universal Poker. There's a little XT and a lot of 8304.

Thanks Jim!

[electronicsguy]

Sorry it took me so long to post an update, the machine is in the basement of the house I am building to replace our other house that burned down last year and tonight I finally got time to go tear into it. The lock is no longer an issue. I didn't pick it, I just drilled the crap out of it and removed it piece by piece lol. I pulled the monitor out and the AC fuse is blown, someone previously replaced it with a 5 amp instead of a 3amp as it was supposed to be. The bridge rectifier is fine, but the B+ regulator and the horizontal output transistor are both shorted (I did check them out of circuit to make sure it wasn't just one and I was reading it across the other. Someone has given this a going over in the past. The pins of the horizontal driver transformer have already been scraped and resoldered so that probably didn't cause it and pretty much every electrolytic cap has been replaced with decent quality 105 degree caps. I will still replace the one off of the horizontal driver transformer for good measure since the hot was shorted. I don't have my ESR meter anymore and I regret getting rid of my Sencore capacitor tester that also had inductor ringer test for flyback transformers. The flyback doesn't have any signs of arcing, but I know it could still be bad internally. Since I can't do a ringer test on it, I am going to order the hot and regulator and see what happens. Maybe it was just hit with a power surge. One thing I did run across is R176 is burned so bad I can't read the color bands. I saw in an earlier reply that some kind soul uploaded the service manual so I will go look at that once I get the extra $10 to donate to gain access to that section. Hopefully is shows the value of that resistor. It appears to be 1/2 watt carbon, it is between DC ground (off the bridge rect) and hot ground. Maybe it blew because of the oversized fuse? I also pulled the main board to see if the battery murdered too many traces on it even though I can hear sounds when I turn the machine on so I think the main board is at least partially booting and may just need a ram reset or something simple once the monitor is fixed. The battery has just started to leak and a few traces are a little lighter colored near it, but they still have continuity. I will replace the battery and hit the board with some electrowash and clean it up real good. The other weird thing, that plug I mentioned before that is off, is 100% identical to the plug that goes from the main board into the monitor for r,g,b and sync but instead of coming from the main board it is zip tied to the ac plug that goes into the monitor. There isn't anywhere for it to plug into the hopper. Since there is a test and service button on the module it comes from i'm wondering if it goes to the monitor to put it in service mode to align everything perhaps? This is the first arcade machine I have worked on so not sure. I usually repaired tvs, audio equipment and pcs.
I will post a pic of the location of that resistor and where the extra plug comes from in case someone knows what value that resistor is and if that plug just hangs unhooked normally. In the meantime i'll order some chemtronics desoldering braid, the battery for the mainboard and the b+ regulator, I have an NTE2302 that will work as a sub for the Horiz op transistor and I have plenty of Arcitc Silver heatsink compound. I know after all of this I will still have to fix whatever is going on with the hopper, but first I would just like to get it to power on. Thanks again for all of the super helpful replies.

[electronicsguy]

Jim does that include any parts that would fit this machine that you would like to sell?

a Christmas present will surprise someone here !!!   Cleaning out some boxes and I found some interesting items that I received from Universal back in the day when they were in located in Las Vegas.

Jim

[electronicsguy]

Please don't mind the severed trace going to the HOT, I did that to isolate it from the circuit to make sure it was actually shorted and not reading the shorted B+ regulator across it, I will hardwire past it when I complete the repair. I didn't have any solder wick so I did what I had to do in order to test it lol

[electronicsguy]

Looks like the resistor I need is a 1.2ohm and I need to go back and check the 2 transistors next to the HOT. There is a lot of info online for this RGB1401A monitor, I just hope the flyback isn't bad. It will be a week or so before I can afford to order the parts, but I will post the results once they are all replaced.

[Jim]

Sorry, only had the paperwork, no other parts available.

Jim

[electronicsguy]

The manuals are a huge help, thanks so much for taking the time to send them to be posted in the downloads section. That will be a huge help

[Chris-socal]

If you are talking about the little resistor near the flyback it is kinda a protection device….if it blew then likely the HOt and two transistors next to it are blown.
Also, you need to check the resistance of the large white resistor if it has one, but check it from the bottom of the board and make sure it has a good connection to the traces. Major fail point.
Those boards are torture, and no, flybacks are not available. Sometimes they power up but you don’t get a picture.

Sometimes you order all those parts and replace them and it blows them all again. You have to test every one of those traces from the solder blob to the next junction. It is VERY common for those traces to separate underneath the solder.

I can see about 6 solder joints that need to be tested and re-flowed in that one small section of the board shown. There will be dozens that need to be toned out.

I wish you the best of luck. On the bright side, you can replace a RGB1401 monitor with a Ceronix 1492.

Chris