UNVIVERSAL VIDEO POKER - Stuck in non-operational mode.

[Chris-socal]

Head scratcher for sure. I think you need to make a few changes and see what happens. You have a picture so you can always revert.
The coin mech type needs to match the type you have. Optic coin mech do not work in a mechanical setup.

One other note, the leads on the backup battery are really long. Typically it is considered ok to have a long negative wire but you want to be careful having a long + lead (same rule applies to the battery in your car). Consider putting a piece of shrink tubing or tape on it. If you accidentally touch the + lead…you don’t want + leads touching anything.

Chris

[Pitts256]

The DIP switches. With the XT and 8304 board the DIP switches are read immediately after doing an ALL CLEAR and stored in the battery backed up RAM. They are the operating settings for the game. The manual will give you and idea what the 8304 DIPs are used for. The XT has a couple sets of DIPs but I currently do not have any information on what each is used for. The manual does show some settings on the "Key Parameters" pages that can not be changed via the video screen so I'm assuming those are set with the DIPs.

In the photo of the settings on the video screen there is a COIN MECH option. The setting is currently a 1 which is for Double Optics. Since you're only using the one optic from the coin comparator this needs to be changed to a 0. This is one of the parameters that can not be changed via the video screen. Try to change the setting though to confirm.

Can the coin jamb alarm be bypassed? Not that I can see. If you install a jumper in place of the second eye the comparator will be disabled. The ABC coin logic is displayed on the video screen and A is closed while B & C are open. B needs to be closed to clear the error. You can take the bottom "C" photo eye (not used) and swap wire connector plugs, use the plug that's hanging free where the removed photo eyes were located. That should change the B state and clear the error. If this works ten try mounting the spare photo eye directly below the coin comparator. The coin will then pass through two eyes. The only snag here could be the speed at which the coin passes through the two eyes. Too slow and the coin will not be accepted.

So the correct way to resolve the problem is change the COIN MECH option. If you can post a photo of DIP switch 1 maybe we can make some sense of the settings for the ALL CLEAR. Otherwise it's hit and miss.

Also did you install the double pole switch? The RESET is needed to acknowledge any errors. Another thing is the drop door, main door and key switches must be closed to complete the reset and place the CPU in a play mode. The INSERT COIN bulb will strobe if the CPU is ready for play.

[Cyhyam]

The DIP switches. With the XT and 8304 board the DIP switches are read immediately after doing an ALL CLEAR and stored in the battery backed up RAM. They are the operating settings for the game. The manual will give you and idea what the 8304 DIPs are used for. The XT has a couple sets of DIPs but I currently do not have any information on what each is used for. The manual does show some settings on the "Key Parameters" pages that can not be changed via the video screen so I'm assuming those are set with the DIPs.

In the photo of the settings on the video screen there is a COIN MECH option. The setting is currently a 1 which is for Double Optics. Since you're only using the one optic from the coin comparator this needs to be changed to a 0. This is one of the parameters that can not be changed via the video screen. Try to change the setting though to confirm.

Can the coin jamb alarm be bypassed? Not that I can see. If you install a jumper in place of the second eye the comparator will be disabled. The ABC coin logic is displayed on the video screen and A is closed while B & C are open. B needs to be closed to clear the error. You can take the bottom "C" photo eye (not used) and swap wire connector plugs, use the plug that's hanging free where the removed photo eyes were located. That should change the B state and clear the error. If this works ten try mounting the spare photo eye directly below the coin comparator. The coin will then pass through two eyes. The only snag here could be the speed at which the coin passes through the two eyes. Too slow and the coin will not be accepted.

So the correct way to resolve the problem is change the COIN MECH option. If you can post a photo of DIP switch 1 maybe we can make some sense of the settings for the ALL CLEAR. Otherwise it's hit and miss.

Also did you install the double pole switch? The RESET is needed to acknowledge any errors. Another thing is the drop door, main door and key switches must be closed to complete the reset and place the CPU in a play mode. The INSERT COIN bulb will strobe if the CPU is ready for play.

I don't see anything in the manual about dip switches but they have not been changed so I don't suspect thay are the problem. What I did that resulted in the coin-in jam error was to do a "ALL CLEAR". I have since removed both batteries and checked voltage, both are 3.6V. I believe all clear reset something to a default and that is causing the error.

I can change COIN MECH and did try "0" with no success. There are 3 coin switches in the configuration and I have tested all 3 connectors and they turn on each respective switch on the screen. There are 2 of these connectors #1 and #2 connected to the machine, one on the comparator and the other below it where coins go into the hopper, see pic below, arrow is second counter.

I did install the switch and one direction will enter the menu options, (note it takes 3 sucessive switches to activate menu), but that method works every time. Turning it the other direction does nothing. The wires are connected center ground, the outside wires are both 5V.

[Pitts256]

Try this and see if the error goes away. Unplug the 6 pin plug on the left side of the coin comparator.  Check the "COIN LOGIC A" output on the video screen and see if it changed from 0 to 1. With the comparator unplugged turn the key switch to the reset position a couple of times then close and lock the main door. Did the error clear?

While looking the A optic output check the "COIN IN A" options, is it 0-9? I'm thinking this may be for setting the type of logic for each eye, normally open, closed or disabled. 

The COIN MECH option should remain in the "0" setting for 1 optic eye.

Meanwhile I'll keep looking for more info on the XT settings.

[Cyhyam]

The COIN MECH option should remain in the "0" setting for 1 optic eye.

Don't I have 2 optic eyes? one in the coin comparator and one below (see post pic above)?

The connectors look the same and when I jump the ground and signal line on the respective connectors the respective switch turns on on the screen (diagnostic screen). There are 3 coin switches on the scren, there are 3 connectors down by the coin comparator. Two are plugged in one to the comparator and one to the "eye" just above the chute going into the hopper. The third connector is not plugged in but when I jump it the sceeen for coin 3 turns on.

[Pitts256]

Below is a typical 3 photo eye configuration for Universal Machines. The top two eyes are used in conjunction with a CC-16-D.100 coin comparator. The CC-16-D.100 coin comparator does not have an output. The outputs from photo eyes one and two are sent back to the CPU. The third eye is simply counting coins as they are diverted to the overflow chute in the event the coin hopper is full.

Your machine has been reconfigured. The photo eyes one and two have been removed. A CC-16 or CC-46 comparator which has a single output and a inhibit input was installed. The comparator was wired to be on all the time. The comparator output was patched into photo eye #1 plug. The CPU board was setup to look for just one coin input or "eye". Photo eye 2 would still function if it were in place but the CPU board is setup (or should be setup) to ignore the output.

In the settings video display photo eye #1 was showing a "0" state, the coin comparator output is closed. It needs to be a "1" or open state. So the machine setting for #1 eye (A input) must be changed, inverted, to match the type of output from the coin comparator. So as mentioned earlier a simple test would be to unplug the coin comparator. If the Coin Input A changes from a 0 to a 1 then setup is incorrect.

[Cyhyam]

I think you are absolutely right about the reconfiguration on this machine.

"In the settings video display photo eye #1 was showing a "0" state, the coin comparator output is closed. It needs to be a "1" or open state. So the machine setting for #1 eye (A input) must be changed, inverted, to match the type of output from the coin comparator.."
I don't know if the line you want changed is "COIN LOGIC A' or "COIN IN A".
I changed COIN LOGIC A from "0" to "1" and it didn't help.
I changed COIN IN A from "2" to "1" and it didn't help.

The 3 pin connector on the coin comparator is only using the center pin going into the comparator, this is the "COIN SWITCH A".
COIN SWITCH B is connector is not plugged into anything.
COIN SWITCH C is connected to the eye before the hopper.

So as mentioned earlier a simple test would be to unplug the coin comparator. If the Coin Input A changes from a 0 to a 1 then setup is incorrect.
I went to the screen that shows the switches working, the individual switch will change color when connected. I can ground the center wire on coin switch 1 and it changes color but plugging or unplugging the same connector to the coin comparator does not change color.
Unplugging the 6 pin connector, (only 4 wires used), to the coin comparator does not turn on any switches either.

[Cyhyam]

It has been a while and I am still trying to get this machine figured out. It has become a challenge to make it work correctly.
I attack it about 4 nights a week until I feel like I am making no significant progress, then come back in a day or two with a fresh outlook. I have enlisted Chat GPT for hekp and it has been very accurate in setting up the menu but we are hitting a wall now. It feels like it is very close to working properly.
A few details.
The coin comparator has only one output "coin in A"
I have a sensor where the coins go to the chute disconnected and turned off in the menu "coin in C"
When I drop a coin the machine shows 1 credit and immediately shows error "reverse coin-in". If I cycle the door switch the message goes away and I can play the credit. If I drop 3 coins only 1 credit shows until the door switch is cycled, then all 3 show and can be played.
I don't understand what is causing the reverse coin-in error. Any ideas?

[Pitts256]

So we need two coin pulses sent to the CPU for one credit. The coin comparitor should be sending pulse #1 through the #1 photo eye connector and there needs to be a photo eye just below the coin comparitor for pulse #2. Since both the #1 and #2 photo eyes have been removed you'll need to move photo eye #3 to either position #1 on the support bracket (as seen in a prior photos). The #1 and #2 photo eye plugs/leads need to be in the correct order/position or you'll get a reverse coin in error. Try swapping the plugs around for eyes #1 (coin comparator) & #2 (Grey photo eye).

[Cyhyam]

I have (3) 3 pin connectors that are the same near the comparator. In diagnostics they each turn on coin in A, coin in B, and coin in C, respectively. I have coin in A connected to the upper eye and coin in C to the lower chute eye. When in diagnostics if I drop a coin I see pulse for coin in A and coin in C.

If I understand correctly I should use coin in B in one of these positions?

[Pitts256]

Correct. Plug A for the coin comparitor, Plug B for the the photo eye in position 1 and Plug C disconnected.

[Cyhyam]

Ok, got that solved with your recomendation and adding a 250 ohm resistor between the coin in A and coin in B signal wire, now it boots up and plays without errors. There are still a couple of issues though
When I use the button to hold a card I can't unhold it with a second button press. The second problem is I am playing jacks or higher and it will not credit on any pair but aces. I have tried changing the menu to games 1 - 8 and it makes no difference to either of these problems.

[Pitts256]

Could be a couple of issues with the buttons.

The HOLD buttons all share a common ground. Check the ground leads to all 5 buttons for a loose connection.

Each HOLD button has input wire back to the logic chips. Check each button for a loose connection. Check the CN-11 plug for a loose terminal and the CPU board edge connector for a bad pad.

Each HOLD button has a micro switch that are prone to oxidize, carbon-up or break internally. These are wired up on the switches normally open terminals. Check each with an ohm meter for a zero continuity reading when the button is pushed. Replace the switch if it's getting flakey.

 

[Cyhyam]

I have used the diagnostic screen and all the buttons work with each push so I think the switches and wiring is not the problem. Each button works with the first push to “hold” but subsequent pushes do nothing. I am thinking that the problem is software related.

[Pitts256]

Sounds like it....

[Cyhyam]

I still can't solve this. The hold buttons hold but a second push won't clear the hold, also it won't pay on 2 pair except for aces, otherwise the machine works fine.

I think that when I cleared the RAM, the settings might have been stored in volatile memory, overriding jumper defaults. Now, after reset, it’s using the hardware defaults — and those defaults may not allow cancel and 2-pair. But I can't find the switches or jumpers to rectify it.

What is a machine in this condition worth? Maybe I should part it out or??

[Pitts256]

Unfortunately I do not have a machine to compare yours to. But yes you should have the option to toggle the hold function. It could be a DIP switch setting, a jumper or a software setting. Hard to believe the software was designed with a one shot no toggle option. The software could also be incorrect for the pay tables displayed.

What's it worth? Working 100%? About $500-600. Since there may be issues...about half that. Parting out and selling as known good parts is a real pain but better than throwing the whole thing in a dumpster, just saying.