Author Topic: 1994 Double Jackpot questions (Read 18102 times)

Pitts256 · « **Reply #40 on:** November 10, 2025, 08:45:17 pm »

Can you post a photo of the chip with the lead bent out and wire soldered on?

I misunderstood where the "squeal" was coming from, thought it was the power supply.

If the "squeal" is heard out of the speaker then there may be bad data going to the sound synthesizer or the chip is failing. I've seen a similar problem too when the wire connectors on the speaker were loose.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #41 on:** November 11, 2025, 08:23:07 am »

No apologies needed. I've been chasing a self inflicted problem with the machine kicking out. I bent that pin back and the machine was still ready to go this morning

. So here's the sound card. Going to make it to the store and see if they have the parts to replace layer today, so hopefully you'll see this before 1pm eastern.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #42 on:** November 12, 2025, 04:41:54 pm »

So i recapped the sound board blue capacitors and we still squeal

. I'm starting to think it's going to be a quirk I'll have to live with. On the for sale page a poster has the 7 segment board so I'll try that and see if that issue gets resolved. So if anyone has suggestions on the squeal I'm all ears.

Pitts256 · « **Reply #43 on:** November 12, 2025, 06:09:35 pm »

Did you by chance use "TEST 5" to test output ports? Test 5 is automated and will send an output to the majority of the ports i.e. lamps, solenoid coils, sound, LED's.

Press the green TEST SW 5 times. The winner paid LED display will show a 5 on the right side. Wait a second and all the LED's will display the number 8 for a second then proceed on to the next test. After the last test is complete the process repeats. To stop the test push the yellow reset button or close the door.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #44 on:** November 12, 2025, 06:43:22 pm »

No I did not do that test. When I try the test mode I don't think I'm getting the right numbers coming up due to the 7 digit display malfunctioning. I'll get to play with it tomorrow. Any other tips you can think of?

Thephoneman · « **Reply #45 on:** November 17, 2025, 08:08:28 am »

I found a few parts on the for sale board and they should be arriving today. Hopefully this will take care of the issue, if not it's in the main board. So another question i have for your pitts, is i replaced the battery, but it still loses the memory (credits stored) when power cycles. Not sure if that's what is supposed to do or not. When i look at where the battery is there is a black can to the left of it and a small red led. That led flickers when I turn the power on but that's it. Mostly trying to see if this is normal so I dont end up chasing my tail or if i need to check it. More details later.

Pitts256 · « **Reply #46 on:** November 17, 2025, 08:51:37 am »

For the 8116 boards the battery voltage is directed to the RAM IC chip, a 24 pin 6116. The +3.6v from the battery is applied to pin 24 and pin 21 on the RAM. There's a diode and resistor in series with the battery that if open will disconnect the backup voltage to the chip. Your board is going to be different but you should be able to take a volt meter and first check the battery and then check for voltage on pin 24 of the RAM chip (with power off). No voltage on the Ram? You have a bad component or open trace.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #47 on:** November 17, 2025, 08:54:31 am »

I'll check that out later today. But with it being the 8800 board i dont know if the same circuitry applies. I'll let you know

Thephoneman · « **Reply #48 on:** November 17, 2025, 05:03:41 pm »

My parts arrived and the 7 segment display is working properly (other than an occasional flicker but that's not a issue) put a different sound board in and it's still giving me that squeal. Not sure what chip on the main board controls that, and it also may be not worth digging into. I'll look at the battery set up and try to get you a Pic.

Pitts256 · « **Reply #49 on:** November 17, 2025, 05:28:57 pm »

Getting there...

The older 8116 boards use a couple of Texas Instruments SN76489N sound generator chips where as the Ultras use YM2413's. Not sure what your 8800 has.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #50 on:** November 17, 2025, 05:34:04 pm »

I know this question takes all the "fun" out of diagnosing, but is there an approximate area to look on the board? Hopefully it's a seated chip and not soldered in. I have a cheap solder sucker lol

Pitts256 · « **Reply #51 on:** November 17, 2025, 05:56:32 pm »

They are soldered in, the front left side of the 8116 board, the sound section.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #52 on:** November 17, 2025, 05:58:49 pm »

Next time I get the board out I'll snap a few pics of the battery area and see if I can find any markings for sound. You've been a tremendous help Pitts. I really appreciate your guidance.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #53 on:** November 19, 2025, 06:43:31 pm »

So......I double checked my battery connection and it needed a little touch up so we're good there. Still getting the occasional squeal. The insert coin light stays on. But I got myself into another jam... had the white wire going to the coin comparator break off the plug and it shorted to ground on the door. Took out most of the fuses. Now I'm getting a 31 and 1 on the win meter. Go to reset it and it comes right back. I unplug the hopper and it works fine. No led on the coin comparator but it works in another machine. I've tried cycling power, hard reset, pulled the board out no dofference.

:hissyfit:ne:

Thephoneman · « **Reply #54 on:** November 19, 2025, 06:58:52 pm »

One last test for the night: opened up the hopper and took the coun sensor out and the fault went away. Put it back on and the light is staying on. Think i found the issue.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #55 on:** November 20, 2025, 08:15:38 pm »

Put a different sensor in and it stays on as well. Not sure if it's the hopper board or what.

Pitts256 · « **Reply #56 on:** November 21, 2025, 07:13:43 pm »

Okay...the 31 error typically occurs when the hopper discharges an extra coin. Pushing the yellow reset button and closing the door should clear the error. But your getting the error when you unplug and plug the hopper back in. The standard hopper uses a simple normally open micro switch which is activated when a coin passes under a roller attached to a lever pushing the switch closed. So it sounds like either you have a coin under the roller, a locked up lever, a grounded wire or a bad micro switch.

A quick check on the CPU board 8 pole DIP switch settings on the CPU board. For the standard coin hopper DIP switch #6 should be OFF. If there's an error the coin comparitor will not turn on if in the INHIBIT mode. That's the white wire from the comparitor is connected to the blue wire on the 3-pin connecter. On the white 3-pin connector for the comparitor the blue wire is an INHIBIT 32vdc power with logic control, the violet is 32vdc NON-INHIBIT power and the black wire is a ground. Is the comparitor white wire connected to the blue or violet power wire?

Thephoneman · « **Reply #57 on:** November 21, 2025, 08:06:11 pm »

I'll have to verify what wire is where. I've been using chat gpt to help walk me thru this and it looks like I have it narrowed down to a chip on the piggyback board. I'll try what you suggested and get more details later this weekend.

Thephoneman · « **Reply #58 on:** November 22, 2025, 04:18:26 am »

Quote from: Pitts256 on November 21, 2025, 07:13:43 pm

Okay...the 31 error typically occurs when the hopper discharges an extra coin. Pushing the yellow reset button and closing the door should clear the error. But your getting the error when you unplug and plug the hopper back in. The standard hopper uses a simple normally open micro switch which is activated when a coin passes under a roller attached to a lever pushing the switch closed. So it sounds like either you have a coin under the roller, a locked up lever, a grounded wire or a bad micro switch.

A quick check on the CPU board 8 pole DIP switch settings on the CPU board. For the standard coin hopper DIP switch #6 should be OFF. If there's an error the coin comparitor will not turn on if in the INHIBIT mode. That's the white wire from the comparitor is connected to the blue wire on the 3-pin connecter. On the white 3-pin connector for the comparitor the blue wire is an INHIBIT 32vdc power with logic control, the violet is 32vdc NON-INHIBIT power and the black wire is a ground. Is the comparitor white wire connected to the blue or violet power wire?

So the way this hopper is set up is there is a small circuit board on the underside. When the hopper is activated it spins the coins go thru a spring loaded lever and then slide down the payout shute and pass an optic eye (this one is one sided with 2 sensors). I'll need to post some pics because this isn't the traditional hopper. The bowl is black plastic with a spring loaded latch that when you undo it the bowl tilts up on hinges. Trust me, this has been really frustrating.

Pitts256 · « **Reply #59 on:** November 22, 2025, 05:56:00 am »

Post a photo.

That sounds like a high speed hopper. They use a photo eye that has a normally closed switch. If the kicker roller is worn coins will not be ejected out the chute and the eye is blocked or it could be the eye over time has become blocked with dirt.

Some hoppers had a rubber coated roller that became hard, brittle and cracked while others were just a metal roller with low friction. The gap between the roller and coin guide rail is critical.

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Author Topic: 1994 Double Jackpot questions (Read 18102 times)