In search of P&M 25CENT DRAW POKER machine information

[Trdstarlet]

Hello everyone,

I’m currently working on troubleshooting a vintage P&M Coin-Operated Video Poker machine. So far, I’ve confirmed that the CRT display is functioning properly, but the machine itself powers on without booting up—there’s no display output, sounds, or attract mode.

To be upfront, I picked up this machine rather randomly at a yard sale, not knowing if it was in working condition. I’m aware that information on these older machines can be scarce, but I’d really appreciate any advice on common failure points, known issues, or general troubleshooting tips you might be able to share.

I understand my details are limited at this point, but I’m happy to provide any additional information or photos that could help with diagnosing the issue.

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer—looking forward to learning from the community.

[Chris-socal]

Hello
We need to see a picture of the inside and a picture of the boards inside.
Not sure who PM is, it might be a clone of another machine.

Chris

[Trdstarlet]

Hey Chris, thank you for the reply. I’ll need to get back to you with the pictures by tomorrow night. In the meantime, this is the closest thing I’ve found online that gives me hope there’s still something out there—and people who might be able to help. It looks identical to mine, so I’m assuming the only difference is the game that’s loaded. My unit isn’t as nice as this one, but beggars can’t be choosers.

[jay]

I know nothing about these, but the first thing I would do is check the fuses. I see four along the back in this game.
Pop each out and verify using a multi-meter that there is continuity.

You mentioned that the CRT works, can you elaborate a bit more.....on the troubleshooting on this.
Have you pulled it out and powered it up separately, or does it kind of glow, and have that static feel to the screen when the machine is turned on.
Have you used a separate video source to display a picture etc ?

Now the reason I ask the above.....
I have an IGT PE+ draw poker. When I turn it on, other than the bill validator making a bunch of initialization noises its pretty silent until the game is played. If I didn't have a bill validator it would be silent until game play.... and subsequently If I didn't have a good image on the screen - I would presume it to be dead.

A bad Hi-voltage transistor on a CRT or washed out image due to a dirty contrast/brightness knob/pot would still give me a powered screen but no image.
What happens if you pop a quarter into it - do you hear any noises or does it just drop through ?

The more you can tell us about its behaviour the more we will be able to assist. 

[Trdstarlet]

I picked up this unit last year, but I wasn’t able to get verified for weeks and eventually gave up. I remembered it today, retried, and—presto—I finally got in! I’m really glad, as now I can interact here.

Anyway, the machine I have isn’t in the best condition. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow after I get home from work. The lock was removed, and I believe the sensor was bypassed (or at least an attempt was made). So, I’m looking for any information that can help me sort out the wiring.

To answer your question: when the unit is powered on, there’s a hum and CRT static on the screen. I can access a menu that allows me to adjust tint, sharpness, and hue (if my memory serves me right). However, there’s no sound or anything else to indicate it’s fully working. The lights on the right side do work.

I originally bought this more for aesthetics to place in a bar I want to build, but if I can get it up and running and breathe new life into it, I’m sure it’ll turn some heads during get-togethers.

[jay]

Like I said .... Sounds like some parts are not getting power... look at the fuses.

Worst case scenario .... you get a small PC ... <$200 on amazon and a KE102 usb device.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0932CKPPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ABXLJKP5YHZSK&th=1

A Mini-pac lets you wire the cabinet buttons and interfaces with the PC via USB.  It basically emulates a keyboard.
https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/mini-pac-en/mini-pac/?variation_id=9
These come in various sizes

Add a PC based Video Poker, Keno, Bj or similar software and it just works.
You could even add a wireless KB and Mouse so you could use it like a PC without ever opening the cabinet.

[Trdstarlet]

Thank you Jay! I'll start working on this unit on Friday(my day off from work) hopefully I get somewhere with it.

[Trdstarlet]

Sorry for the delay—forgot how heavy these things are, lol. The pictures included are of my actual unit. All fuses have been checked both visually and with a multimeter for continuity, and they’re all good.

[jay]

I am still thinking power....you can see a transformer at the back and several other connectors.
I would start checking voltages on some of those. Such as are you getting power into the transformer and whats coming out on the other side.

I would also clean the edge card on that MPU board with a white eraser but at first glance it looks pretty clean.

[Trdstarlet]

So the screen comes on and some of the lights come on and the lovely hummmmm. I'll check the power supply connections.

[jay]

That looks like a test mode, as opposed to a monitor setup screen.
It looks like there is a white button on the right side but I lose resolution when i zoom in too much and can't tell if thats a cherry switch or on/off etc.

Is this a button or are there any other buttons inside ?

[Trdstarlet]

So I did some more digging found a couple of wires that a aren't plugged in. Also the power supply had a small cap that may have leaked?

[jay]

I can't be sure but assuming thats a picture with the hopper removed.
Those sort of look like wires for a Drop Door below the Hopper....

Typically there is a metal bar on the hopper that goes about 10-15% into the hopper, when the coins get to a certain level they short with the metal bar which opens the lower drop drawer to expel additional ones into the slot cabinet below. Generally speaking most of us don't have slot cabinets at home that support drop drawers. So if this has had any kind of home use previously they are often removed.

Once again this is speculation - I have no direct experience with the slot you have.

[Trdstarlet]

I removed the coin hopper for clarity. I'm still poking around see if I see something obvious. Thanks for your comments and suggestions 😊.

[jay]

I also see that on your monitor board there is a A/B setup switch. Have you tried flipping this.

[Trdstarlet]

I did it produces a thin small line in the middle of the screen.

[Trdstarlet]

So, I was tinkering and found two issues. I started feeding coins into the slot and noticed that it wouldn’t cycle. While trying to figure it out, I caught a whiff of something burning. I immediately shut off the power and removed the coin comparator. There were more coins inside than I had fed—four quarters were jammed in what I believe is an actuator, and they were hot to the touch!

After clearing the jam, I powered it back on, and the power supply started giving up the ghost—shm! The transformer has visible charring. I’m glad I didn’t walk away; instead, I powered it down again and checked further, and I’m pretty sure the transformer has issues.

So, where can I find these types of parts? 

[shortrackskater]

I had fed—four quarters were jammed in what I believe is an actuator, and they were hot to the touch!

This reminded me of another potential issue. People move recently acquired machines forget that there already may be loose coins in the bottom. Or the coins fall from the hopper. Either way, they are known to cause "unwanted circuits" that cause havoc when the machine is powered up. 
I'd inspect all around the machine, especially the bottom (use a mirror if needed) to check for any loose coins.

[Chris-socal]

I did it produces a thin small line in the middle of the screen.

That switch on top of the RGB1401 is a setup switch. The thin white line is used to dial in the convergence and colors. Its a good thing that you get the white line when switched, at least you know the flyback works. It doesn’t mean the board is working completely correct but its one positive attitude.

It is interesting that P&M used RGB1491’s, that means the video is inverted colors, you can only use a monitor that supports inverted colors.

One note since you are new to this, do not power the monitor from the wall outlet, you must always use an isolation transformer. If you connect directly to the wall outlet it will toast the chassis. One of those transformers in the bottom of the machine is an isolation transformer for your monitor.

Chris

[Trdstarlet]

Noted Chris thank you for the forewarning. I pretty much taken the whole thing apart. Power supply, tube and main board.  Didn't find any additional coins. Crossing my fingers I can get it going.