In search of P&M 25CENT DRAW POKER machine information

[Chris-socal]

I just looked back to the picture of your monitor with the RGB setup screen, that color display….was that when the game board was connected? If so that almost indicates the game board is in some type of setup state. I don’t think that RGB is coming from the monitor….I have never seen anything like that built on to an RGB1401.

[Trdstarlet]

Yeah thats what I get if the switch is to the right on setting 1. On setting 2 I was getting a black screen or a faint red line in the middle of the screen. I'm going to order a transformer which is about 25bucks. The screen it self my need a good cleaning and vertical potentiometer repair/Change as it didnt make any changes.  My concern is the two sets of wires that I couldn't tell where they plug into.

[jay]

There appears to be a white button on the right of the chasis about mid slot.

[Trdstarlet]

Hmm not sure what button you see... I what picture are you looking at I maybe just looking in the wrong place.

[Chris-socal]

Our point is this, I think that color image is coming from the game board. Are you sure your game board doesn’t work? Maybe the game board works but a setup button or switch is activated.

[Trdstarlet]

You may be correct but with the transformer fried ill have to wait to give it another try. Also don't know if the board works or not. Bought it almost site unseen. I'm a repair tech for small to mid size home electronics so I thought I throw my hat in the ring.

[Chris-socal]

How did you get the setup screen? Did you press one of the buttons up top? Red or black?
 Did you measure the output of the transformer? Those can get really hot and take a lot of abuse.

[Trdstarlet]

It's been defaulting to this screen. The transformer started smoking and of course the unpleasant smell. When I took out the power supply box the first time it wasn't charred at all. This happen after the 3 quarters coins where cycled.

[Trdstarlet]

Well, I removed the RGB dials and selector switch—and the selector switch is bad! It’s really loose and sloppy, which I’m sure is why I could only get the diagnostic screen for colors and position, and not the regular game screen. If I hold it down some it make a clicking sound and locks solid. That said, I still would have run into issues with the coin comparator and the transformer eventually.

[jay]

This pic... I circled.

[Trdstarlet]

This pic... I circled.

Oh that's from the other similar one I found on line here is mine.

[jay]

Top left hand corner is the burnt-orange connector - appears to be a button there, and on the right hand side there is a metal plate with what appears to be a white button.

[Trdstarlet]

Top left hand corner is the burnt-orange connector - appears to be a button there, and on the right hand side there is a metal plate with what appears to be a white button.

These didn't do anything at the time it was power up.

[Trdstarlet]

Did some more digging today into the power supply. I verified the rectifiers are working after tracing the charred leads from the transformer to confirm they’re still functional after the damage.

My concerns are twofold:

1. Replacement transformer – I can’t locate a replacement based on the only marking: WTI 8880 (Wester Transformers Industries, India). No other identifiers, so I’m flying blind.

2. Fuse ratings – All fuses showed continuity, but I overlooked their amperage ratings. I believe the previous owner just installed whatever was on hand:

Holder #1: 5A 250V 313

Holder #2: 2A 250V 313

Holder #3: 30A 32V 311

Holder #4: 15A 32V 311 3AG

Call it a hunch, but I think #3 and #4 are far too high in amperage. Any well-versed techs know what fuse ratings you’d normally expect in these machines? I’m guessing 5A and under across the board—correct?

Also, while tracing the transformer leads, I found two wires that may have been pre-wired at the factory for future use, or possibly removed during a repair. I can’t say for certain, but it does explain the two vacant, unpopulated fuse holders on the chassis.

On another note – The RGB remote board, where the setup selector is located, was loose and sloppy. I disassembled it, reassembled it securely, and reflowed the contact traces with fresh solder for good measure.

[jay]

What voltages are you getting out of the transformer.
Disconnect it and measure the output voltage.
How many taps does it have ?

If the input is 110v typical residential wiring is  14/2 which 110v at 15amp
Commercial wiring is 12/2 which depending on the breaker is 110 15a or 20a
To go above 20a you need to be at 220v which is typically 20a or 30a.
Higher than 30a your at a #6 wiring (hot tubs) or #4 wiring for outdoor commercial heating

It’s the amperage that blows a fuse. A 5a draw at 110v will blow a fuse rated for 3a 250v.
The only one that looks sketch to me is the 30a fuse.

[Trdstarlet]

Running on 120V input. Before it let out the magic smoke, it was sipping about 130–150 watts, best I can recall. The power cord had been butchered, so I tossed in a fresh one. Inside the PSU, the conductors look like 14 AWG.

On the transformer, there are 8 output taps wired, but only 6 actually land anywhere — the other 2 are just dangling, pre-wired with nowhere to go. I’ll grab some voltage readings tomorrow morning at work and post the numbers.

[Trdstarlet]

Yeah, no dice on the transformer. As soon as I hit it with power, I can hear it crackle within the first second or two, so I didn’t leave it on long. Took several tries, but here’s what I measured: 42 V, 45 V, 36 V, 36 V, 60 V, and 46 V.

I also noticed the voltages all started to climb — some quicker than others.

[jay]

You have a model number and manufacturer of your transformer.
I didn't find a spec sheet online but you might inquire with Mouser or one of the other electronics supply houses as they may have a cross reference for a different part.
Hitachi also absorbs a ton of other suppliers when they go out of production so you might check with them too.

[Trdstarlet]

Dang turning up nothing but dead ends for the moment. Ill keep looking for parts and info.

[Chris-socal]

Do you know for sure that is WTI from India and not Westward Transformers?
I can't find that part number either way but it's something to consider while continuing your search.