Gay 90's Video Poker Machine - Doubled Image on CRT

[kawzmOS]

Hello,

I am working on a Gay 90's Video Poker machine:
The screen has a doubled image. See attached photos.

I tried adjusting the potentiometers for the vertical position, but the image remains doubled.
I checked the capacitors on the board, and all of them look fine. No bloat, no fluid, no puffiness.
I found some documentation on the circuits, but I am not very good at circuit analysis:
http://slot-tech.com/amusements/monitor_schematic_diagrams/ceronix/manual_1492.pdf

I would like to replace the components that most likely failed (to save money) rather than replace the entire board with a used one.

What would be the most likely culprits? What are some troubleshooting steps I can take to isolate the problem? Are there any other safety considerations I should take besides learning how to properly discharge the CRT? I typically work on low voltage digital stuff. I have experience working on electronics repair. I am aware the CRT is dangerous and can kill me.
I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you.

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[Chris-socal]

Welcome to NLG.
Without question you need to replace the capacitors on the monitor board. Or send the board to someone. If you have capacitors that are aged or out of spec you can adjust knobs all day and it won’t help anything.
Post a pic of the monitor out of the machine, there should be a label on it. Based on your attachment you have a monitor in the 1482, 1490 or 2992 family. There are not many capacitors on these and I have a few videos on Youtube where I do an overview of them.

Chris

[kawzmOS]

Hey Chris,

Thank you for your reply. I found a cap kit that seems to be the proper fit: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/capacitors/ceronix-1492-13-series-monitor-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/

Does that seem right?

Also, I am kind of scared of pulling the board out due to the CRT high voltage. I will be watching and reading a ton of stuff before making my attempt. But if you know of a specific technique or tool, or a video tutorial for this specific machine to render it harmless before removing the board - I would be very grateful.

I have worked in plenty of electronics over the years, TV's game consoles, servers, drones. This is my first CRT, and my first high voltage project.

[Chris-socal]

Most 1492s self discharge, there is an era of flyback from 2006 that takes 10-15 minutes to discharge the tube, my video covers how to do it and I always do check. Those would have a white label on them and I seriously doubt the board has a new flyback from 2006 but didn’t get a cap kit.but it could happen.
Personally, my tool of choice is a flat screwdriver with alligator clips on each side. One to the screwdriver, one to the chassis. This is Covered in my video. Hold the screwdriver on the plastic handle and slip it under the cup. You probably won’t get any spark on a Ceronix monitor, if you do it will be one pop. Nothing to worry about. Thats the only component that might hold charge.

Thats a lot of money for a cap kit, it has the 3 big filter caps that rarely need to be replaced (I have maybe replaced 4 of those and usually because they got physically broken), they are about $6/each, way overkill. I sell a set on eBay for around $12 plus shipping, only thing is Im traveling right now so my shipping is suspended until Friday. Also, when We see a sync problem like you have We usually suggest you replace the 10uf/16v cap on the PRA-H board. I include that when you buy a kit from me. It is not in the standard cap kit.

Chris

[kawzmOS]

Excellent! I'll buy the kit from you then.

It wasn't clear to me how to remove the board and CRT from the cabinet. It seems like there's two metal brackets you unscrew and then the whole thing slides out. But that feels like too little effort for something that heavy. I'm sure it's secured by other means as well. Do you have any tips on how to remove it so I can work on the components?

I have to do reading on what a flyback is. I'll be watching your videos in preparation until I can get the parts from you. I hope you have safe and fun travels.

[Chris-socal]

Only two screws is correct.
Then two connectors. One is power one is the video signal. Its a genius design.
The flyback is the largest component on the board, its the transformer that kicks the voltage up to 25Kv .
You don’t need to do anything with the flyback, we know it works because you have a picture.

 Chris

[Chris-socal]

Did you ever get the game board out of the machine or pull the monitor?
If you cannot get to the game board for some reason I can identify if the board is jumpered for IGT if you send me a picture of the underside of the board. I can guide you where to look.

Chris

[kawzmOS]

Since the machine is at my grandparents house, I can't easily jump back into it. Can you send me a link for your capacitor kit? I'm planning on buying them this weekend. How long will it take to ship? I am in Victorville CA.

[Chris-socal]

I ship within 1 day. Same day if the order comes in early enough.

https://ebay.us/m/vAjuX0