809-ZZB another project. (blame Wolftalk)

[David Walz]

also keep in mind the payout counter steps up when the switches operated by the roller pivot arm open.

if you have the pivot arm height or switches adjusted so the switches barely open, the payout counter won't step to end payout until the exiting coin is almost all the way out from under the roller and the next coin is approaching the roller.  You'd have to look to see if the kicker attached to the override solenoid can still deflect that approaching coin into the bowl.

Makes sense, I rebuilt the hopper and some parts may need to be adjusted.

Thanks.

[David Walz]

Some adjusting, I've got the cherry, bell payouts correct. Now I have to start checking all of them.

I have another problem, however I need to run the payouts to get a better understanding of the situation.

The beau plug on the hopper may be wankers, I will check out the condition of the pins.

[David Walz]

What I need to do is use this payout and determine what is working, what isn't working, what is locking up.
I've straightened out the correct nickel payout on the cherry payout.

[David Walz]

the motor doesn't matter ... you should be able to pull the hopper and attach a drill chuck to the motor rotor/armature.   Use the drill to spin the rotor so the pinwheel turns.

since the override solenoid isn't powered, the coins should all deflect back into the bowl.

I have a crazy one for you....

After checking out all of the wins, everything, the only issue that I have is that:
 the three single bar's
and
 the three oranges
locks the coil down and it will not release see photo. It basically stops everything.

[David Walz]

Today, I was running around in circles going crazy.The "in meter" is not working. 

 I finally found out the brown wire in the reels is the culprit, sometimes it works, then it doesn't work. 

I checked out the meter, beau plugs & wiring, upper wiring, they are working.

[David Walz]

I got the meter working on the reels, another bad connection, as usual it takes time tracing wires.

[David Walz]

Bell, 20 wire hot, 10-2 wire to the contact plate wiring.

I'm working on the bell wiring. I've traced the 10-2 wire to the contact plate wiring, #1 3rd in, 3rd up has been adjusted, cleaned. The next one is #2 location is; 3 in 3 up, last one is #3 if location is; 4 in 4 up. Then I will check it with the #90 wire. Hopefully it's nothing much, just cleaning, adjusting.

The 20 wire is hot, so were good.

[wolftalk]

I have a crazy one for you....

After checking out all of the wins, everything, the only issue that I have is that:
 the three single bar's
and
 the three oranges
locks the coil down and it will not release see photo. It basically stops everything.

with how many coins played?

it actually shouldn't matter since the payout counter step-up coil should only get powered when the switches detecting a coin exiting the hopper close.  If your hopper pinwheel stops turning and a coin is lifting the roller arm and closing the switches, then the step-up coil can lock on.  Otherwise, you'd need to have a short someplace, but where is kinda the problem since the circuits for the payout counter are completely separate from the win detection circuits thru the reels.

Bell, 20 wire hot, 10-2 wire to the contact plate wiring.

I'm working on the bell wiring. I've traced the 10-2 wire to the contact plate wiring, #1 3rd in, 3rd up has been adjusted, cleaned. The next one is #2 location is; 3 in 3 up, last one is #3 if location is; 4 in 4 up. Then I will check it with the #90 wire. Hopefully it's nothing much, just cleaning, adjusting.

The 20 wire is hot, so were good.

the 90 wire isn't in the circuit ... don't forget to look at the wiper fingers drawn on the right end of the rivets on each of the contact plates in the diagram.  Usually the bell circuit is on the lowest two arcs of rivets, and that's true in this case.   

note that arcs 3 & 4 up from the bottom are used on reels 1-2, while arc 4 & 5 are used on reel 3.  They typically want to use the higher rivets as much as possible since they are bigger and less likely to have issues with bridging as the wiper contacts wear down.

so the bell circuit is:

reel 3: wire 20-1 -> 80-1
reel 2: 80-1 -> 50-1
reel 1: 50-1 -> 10-2

10-2 connects to the bell, and 20-1 connects eventually back to common wire 30 thru a payout relay switch and a reel mech A-2 switch.  Net effect is the bell will only ring during payout (while the payout relay is powered ... including when in jackpot lockup), and it's possible to pull the handle far enough to open reel mech A-2 and shut up the bell if you release the handle.

per the reel wiper board wiring, the circuit only completes with bar wins - including mixed bars.

when the bell rings is one of the common differences between various models of a machine.  The rules above for the 809-ZZB are pretty typical, but other fruit symbol 809 models may do things differently.  Occasionally a game is configured to continue ringing the bell even after payout completes.  If the player takes their loot and leaves with the winning result left on the reels, the machine will sit there ringing forever.  I assume a casino attendant or another player finally spun the reels to shut the thing up.
 

 

[David Walz]

I have a crazy one for you....

After checking out all of the wins, everything, the only issue that I have is that:
 the three single bar's
and
 the three oranges
locks the coil down and it will not release see photo. It basically stops everything.

with how many coins played?

it actually shouldn't matter since the payout counter step-up coil should only get powered when the switches detecting a coin exiting the hopper close.  If your hopper pinwheel stops turning and a coin is lifting the roller arm and closing the switches, then the step-up coil can lock on.  Otherwise, you'd need to have a short someplace, but where is kinda the problem since the circuits for the payout counter are completely separate from the win detection circuits thru the reels.

Bell, 20 wire hot, 10-2 wire to the contact plate wiring.

I'm working on the bell wiring. I've traced the 10-2 wire to the contact plate wiring, #1 3rd in, 3rd up has been adjusted, cleaned. The next one is #2 location is; 3 in 3 up, last one is #3 if location is; 4 in 4 up. Then I will check it with the #90 wire. Hopefully it's nothing much, just cleaning, adjusting.

The 20 wire is hot, so were good.

the 90 wire isn't in the circuit ... don't forget to look at the wiper fingers drawn on the right end of the rivets on each of the contact plates in the diagram.  Usually the bell circuit is on the lowest two arcs of rivets, and that's true in this case.   

note that arcs 3 & 4 up from the bottom are used on reels 1-2, while arc 4 & 5 are used on reel 3.  They typically want to use the higher rivets as much as possible since they are bigger and less likely to have issues with bridging as the wiper contacts wear down.

so the bell circuit is:

reel 3: wire 20-1 -> 80-1
reel 2: 80-1 -> 50-1
reel 1: 50-1 -> 10-2

10-2 connects to the bell, and 20-1 connects eventually back to common wire 30 thru a payout relay switch and a reel mech A-2 switch.  Net effect is the bell will only ring during payout (while the payout relay is powered ... including when in jackpot lockup), and it's possible to pull the handle far enough to open reel mech A-2 and shut up the bell if you release the handle.

per the reel wiper board wiring, the circuit only completes with bar wins - including mixed bars.

when the bell rings is one of the common differences between various models of a machine.  The rules above for the 809-ZZB are pretty typical, but other fruit symbol 809 models may do things differently.  Occasionally a game is configured to continue ringing the bell even after payout completes.  If the player takes their loot and leaves with the winning result left on the reels, the machine will sit there ringing forever.  I assume a casino attendant or another player finally spun the reels to shut the thing up.
 

Bars Match Relay

Top switch is NC it is wired through 1 bar, 2 bar, 3 bar.
Second switch is NO for 3 bar
Third switch is NO for 2 bar
Fourth switch is NO for 1 bar

 When the coil activates the switches, the 1 bar freeze in the hopper.
If I activate the top switch the 1 bar will run fine.

[David Walz]

 

The reels are working , the hopper is working, I tweaked a few switches. Then I was looking at the hopper beau plug and after I took the screws out, it went to 💩 when I started wiggling the wires. After checking the wires, switches, relays, this was the issue.

I should've replaced all of the female beau plugs, every beau plug was bad. 

[David Walz]

I finished replacing the hopper plug, it was a a long process as usual. The issues from what I observed have been resolved, the payouts are working fine. I still need to check out the machine, we will see what happens next.
Remember, this was a basket case with a lot of missing parts, hopper, reels, upper mechanism was a disaster. The glass was incorrect, paint was flaking. The switch contacts needed cleaning, replacing, sourced, rebuilding. The wiring was a disaster. The cabinet needed to be glued, cleaned. All three meters needed replacement, all three are the correct meters for this slot machine.

 And a whole lot more work.

Observation: the reels are spinning correctly, stopping, snapping. Inserting the coin is working flawless, all coin lights are working. The hopper is working great, everything is functioning in the hopper. The pay outs are working correctly, no more issues.

One thing that I observed is that this was some casino slot machine.

[David Walz]

It does look good.

 I did some more testing and it's doing really good, payouts, lights, coins dropping in the cash box, meters working, reels are adjusted to be on target with the center line of the glass, the coin blocker is working, belly lights are working, candle is working, the handle assembly is working smoothly.

 It's awesome to see it come together. 

[David Walz]

The tray of beau plugs are for replacing the Bally machine beau plugs that are not working, broken, etc. They can be difficult to exchange the wires, what I learned is to do the middle row of wires first then the side rows.

If you don't trim off the excess wiring that's soldered on the beau plugs, it could possibly touch another wire and then you are in a world of 💩.

[David Walz]

Another issue is the switches, they need to be cleaned, the wires checked out, continuity, etc. This machine was stored in a environment where it had no regulated heat, which will cause the switches to fail, also the glass paint spiderweb, the cabinet was dry out needed to be glued, and rust occurred.
Another important issue is that the electrical cord rotted out, every Bally machine that I have had cord rot and was replaced
When I first started disassembling the slot machine, the handle wouldn't function due to sitting, the grease acted like glue.
The reels were not moving, someone forced the reels and destroyed the clock mechanism that was frozen from hard grease.
The upper unit was a disaster, someone removed parts and it needed rebuilding, all of the screws in the base plate were to long dragging on the cabinet.
All of the bulbs, fluorescents, were replaced with vintage ones made in the US.
The door was missing parts, the wiring needed to be repaired, the cut wires were replaced, door locking device was adjusted, lock was replaced with the ABLOY keyed to the other slot machines.

[David Walz]

The 809-ZZB lower cabinet has Yale cabinet locks, I located 2 ABLOY cabinet locks, I will be able to key the cabinet alike to the one key for all of my slot machines.

I just remembered that the Mills slot machine is the only machine not keyed to the rest of my slot machines, it's the beautiful red headed step child. ❤

 

[David Walz]

I just realized that I've been getting behind on duplicating my slot machines key, since they are keyed alike.
It's really good to have a key for each slot machine with their own identification, just in case.
When I started using the original ABLOY key profile from the 1970's, I made a key that would be easy peasy to rekey, duplicate, etc.

[David Walz]

Rekeyed the locks for the cabinet.

[David Walz]

Locks for cabinet.

[David Walz]

I think the cabinet is some sort of telephone stand, I found a telephone tag on the inside of the cabinet. 
Hopefully I didn't destroy some antique cabinet drilling holes in it, installing locks, power cord, etc. 

[David Walz]

I think the hopper motor is tired, it's just trying to get up and go. I have extra motors in my supplies, this is the replacement motor.