Help with Bally 1987 25 cent E-series 2214 machine

[MazzKmazz]

     Hi, I'm new here, and I apologize if I am doing anything wrong perchance. I recently picked up an E-series slot machine for forty bucks off of offerup. When I first brought it back it was completely dead, I managed to get the test mode working, reels spinning, all lamps working, along with some of the coils, and the basic switches. Neither the stoppers nor the hopper are working. The machine says it was last serviced in 1994 by Aancient slots. The boards in between the reels had duct tape, not electrical, over them and there are several other strange retrofits I assume we're done by them. Removing the tape helped two of the boards to get signal after I removed the dried on adhesive with rubbing alcohol, but they still do not stop, only the reel reader works. The hopper appears to have no signals to it, as the mechanical numbers on top are attempting to find the correct numbers but just move rapidly because it can't figure it out, and when you take out the hopper they stop. I also have trouble finding this specific model? It is labeled 1987 on the glass pieces though all the sources I've found say they weren't produced then. Several parts are also labeled as coming from different models rather than the 2214. Looking for any help I can get, I'm stupid and this is my first experience with anything like this

[cliffeby]

Did you find a solution to your problems?  I'm working on my E 22xx and looking for ideas.

[shortrackskater]

Normally someone would have chimed in by now. Maybe holidays and harsh weather, and the post got further down!

 

[MazzKmazz]

     Some progress, I used my multimeter to check the power supply and found that it was practically dead. I bought a new replacement from K-Lar on EBay and it works like a charm, though I also had to replace the battery on the MPU, I'd recommend replacing it with a holder instead of directly soldering a new one on, and that seemed to help with the numbers. The switches on these types of machines also seem to have a large impact on how well it works, I fixed the door switch and most tilts went off, as expected. As for the hopper, I haven't paid much attention to it but it has ATTEMPTED to move a few times, as well as giving me a code 32 on the hopper test (hopper empty) code. I find this strange as the hopper happens to be filled, so that's what I'll be working on next. Finally the reel readers, when I replaced the power supply one of the readers began to get a signal, it was a code 71, meaning that it couldn't find the home position of the first reel which caused a constant buzzing in the coil. Going to try and get some 99% isoprophyl alcohol to clean off at least that first board and hope it works, but I don't have very high hopes for the other three. Overall if I had to recommend anything it would be to test as much as you can with that multimeter because it can show you a slew of problems, also manuals are a great help in these projects.

[slcjeeper]

You have a Bally E-2000 series machine. Unless it is the military version, has a progressive, or has credit play, it will work fine without the battery.

Here are some things to check:

What are the voltages on the power supply? Check the voltage drop from the power supply to the regulator on the MPU board. Also, have you replaced the pins on the female plug to the power supply? A good number of problems are resolved by doing so. If you don’t have the tools/parts to re-pin, KLAR offers a kit with wire connectors to replace them.

If your machine has a keyed reset switch on the right bottom side of the machine, temporarily disconnect at least 1 wire to eliminate the switch while troubleshooting.

In your first post you described removing tape. Was that from the backs of the reader cards? If so, replace it or light will affect the readers. Also, swap reader 1 with another position to see if the error follows.

Absolutely everything mechanically in the reel mech needs to move freely. Anything that hangs or moves slowly can cause an error. Remove each stop coil on the reel mech and clean both the plunger and sleeve.

When working properly and after closing the door, you should see only a 50 code. This goes away after the first game is played. So the goal is to get to a 50.

The machine only needs 1 working door switch. The hinge switch and door lock switch are wired in series and the door lock switch is often a problem. Just bypass it by jumping its 2 wires together.

If the hopper won’t pay, with the hopper out of the machine and hopper board disconnected, use an extension cord to jump 110 to the motor to see if it’s good. If it works, then you most likely have a problem with the hopper board or the enable circuit on the I/0 board.  Never remove anything from the machine while it is on. Also, the machine will not function or run tests with the hopper removed.

[cliffeby]

Mazz, thanks for the update.  Good advice and good comments from Shortrack. 

I'd solve the hopper issues - they should be easy.  Plus it's satisfying when you do the hopper test and get 10 coins.  His advice on using a 110v cord is gold.  The gearbox often needs some lube so making sure it's free is important.  I hooked up a drill to the input shaft on and IGT hopper and spun it for five minutes.  Works every time now.

My problem seems to be with indexing.  Let me know if you make any progress with yours.

[MazzKmazz]

You have a Bally E-2000 series machine. Unless it is the military version, has a progressive, or has credit play, it will work fine without the battery.

Here are some things to check:

What are the voltages on the power supply? Check the voltage drop from the power supply to the regulator on the MPU board. Also, have you replaced the pins on the female plug to the power supply? A good number of problems are resolved by doing so. If you don’t have the tools/parts to re-pin, KLAR offers a kit with wire connectors to replace them.

If your machine has a keyed reset switch on the right bottom side of the machine, temporarily disconnect at least 1 wire to eliminate the switch while troubleshooting.

In your first post you described removing tape. Was that from the backs of the reader cards? If so, replace it or light will affect the readers. Also, swap reader 1 with another position to see if the error follows.

Absolutely everything mechanically in the reel mech needs to move freely. Anything that hangs or moves slowly can cause an error. Remove each stop coil on the reel mech and clean both the plunger and sleeve.

When working properly and after closing the door, you should see only a 50 code. This goes away after the first game is played. So the goal is to get to a 50.

The machine only needs 1 working door switch. The hinge switch and door lock switch are wired in series and the door lock switch is often a problem. Just bypass it by jumping its 2 wires together.

If the hopper won’t pay, with the hopper out of the machine and hopper board disconnected, use an extension cord to jump 110 to the motor to see if it’s good. If it works, then you most likely have a problem with the hopper board or the enable circuit on the I/0 board.  Never remove anything from the machine while it is on. Also, the machine will not function or run tests with the hopper removed.

     Hey, sorry for the late reply as I've been away. To answer your question about the tape, it was a black tape, not electrical tape, that had left a hard residue. I cleaned the readers with isopropyl alcohol, but only the first reader had any signs of life. It gives a code 71, meaning the reel can't find home/index. I assume the buzzing of the corresponding first stopper coil has something to do with the code 71. I've also been experiencing a strange glitch where when I activate the hopper test and close the door every coil activates wildly several times. It is very aggressive and shakes the machine. The progressive display on the top unit flashes the combination 7355 and 7353, I am not sure if these hold any meaning though. When I activate the hopper test and the door is not closed, I get a code 32, the empty hopper code. The hopper is not empty, though I'm not sure how exactly it calculates the number of coins in the hopper.
     You mentioned replacing the female plug's pins to the power supply, and I most definitely will as I've noticed it's actually burnt from the inside. Going back to the hopper, the hopper board is actually a very old K-Lar replacement board and not an original, so I haven't had any trouble with that.
    Anyways, thanks for the reply. I'll be sure to get back to you once I've had the chance to test each of your recommendations. I've also attached two images of my machine if that helps out at all