Universal Ultra Series -Double Jackpot from Soaring Eagle Casino - HELP

[BlackKnight]

My good friend picked up this machine earlier this year. Previous owned had it for about 8-10 years in their basement. Worked fine their kids played it. Fast forward - kids grew up and moved out. Sat for about 5 years unused. I am trying to help my friend get this running again. I have pinball restoration knowledge 1979-1985ish solid state machines. Never messed with a slot machine.

NOTE: before moving machine it was already not working from sitting unused.
Previous owner removed DBV and kept It I was told.
I have worked on some really dirty pinballs. This machine is very clean. The pins on the cpu are shiny. No dust or grime on CPU. Battery shows a spec of acid on solder point only. Will machine boot from a total dead battery? I know some of my pinballs would have corrupted Vram if backup battery died. Source for a battery? Probably should get that corrected right away.

We plugged it in. Fluorescent lights are the only life. Tried to insert quarters and they just drop through to return tray. No lights on CPU. I tried to test voltages at Test Points but am confused about:

1) Door open switches on all doors? are some different?

2) Key positions right left center?

3) No idea of service panel buttons. What they should do?

4) I have no idea if cpu is seating into backboard at all? feels like it barely moves. Should the white release clips on the board touch the metal edge of the compartment when folded inward? I feel like there is almost 1/4 gap left when it stops moving.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

[Pitts256]

Good photos, thx.

To answer your questions...

Fluorescent lights are lit so there's 110vac through the power supply.

1) Door open switches on all doors? On the uprights there are typically two needed for play. The white cherry door switch and the photo eye on the door key lock.

2) Key positions right left center? The key switch is used to reset a jackpot and to check accounting information.

3) No idea of service panel buttons. The yellow button is a cpu reset, the red and green for testing and programming.

4) I have no idea if cpu is seating into backboard at all? feels like it barely moves. Should the white release clips on the board touch the metal edge of the compartment when folded inward? I feel like there is almost 1/4 gap left when it stops moving. The Ultra cpu boards have issues with not seating into the backplane sockets enough to make a good connection. The clips should not touch the boards metal tray when folded inward. While you have the board out check the two cpu board edge connectors (ECN1 & ECN2) for bent pins. When reinserting the cpu make sure it's inserted in the center of the plastic guide rails on each side of the tray. Seat the board using the two white clips and your thumbs and apply even pressure on both sides, it doesn't go far into the backplane connectors.

If there's power and permissives to the CPU board the four red LED's on the front edge of the board should all strobe at the same time.

LED's aren't strobing? The power supply may have failed.  The power supply has voltage and current monitoring and will shut down for off spec. Output voltages can be checked on the front left side of the CPU board.

CPU BOARD VOLTAGES (actual meter measurements while game idling)
Test Points
1) 5.10 - yellow (CH5) to black (CH4)
2) 11.90 - red (CH7) to green (CH6)
3) 29.60 - orange (CH3) to green (CH6)
4) 5.10 - blue (CH2) to white (CH1)  Pins are located near the ECN1 connector. You'll need test jumpers.

If the voltages are present on the cpu board test points then the power supply may not be sending the cpu a run permissive. There's a small cap (C31) that fails in the supply for the permissive control output.

First let's check the cpu board edge connector for bent pins and then reinstall in the machine. Powerup the supply and check for the voltages on the cpu board.

 

 

 

[BlackKnight]

Thanks for the quick reply.

So as far as keys and locks this machine has:

1) a top key to open and remove top glass to get to fluorescent bulbs in top glass
2) a key to open door to access reels/cpu area/service buttons. This area has a second key for    audit and testing.
3) a key to open bottom door (hopper area) power supply.

I saw mention of some cherry switches you can PULL OUT on to allow what? door to appear open?

Also battery question. Will machine start up without a battery? or dead battery.
Having a hard time finding the right nicad 3.6v 50=60 mah

I will be going to test power today on cpu. Thanks

[Pitts256]

Typically one of the door key switches has a photo eye or micro switch on it serving as a run permissive to the CPU. The door cherry switch serves the same purpose in parallel to the door key switch and has a detent position (pulled out) that will send a run permissive to the CPU.

The CPU should boot up with a dead battery but will give an error code in the LED display.

Use a 3.6v NiCd or NiMH 1/2 AA button battery with through hole solder pins. This is a rechargeable battery. They are available at eBay, Mouser, DigiKey etc. Lithium can be used but the charge circuit must be disabled, resistors cut. 

[BlackKnight]

Ok so I looked at pins there are none bent and they look super clean.
Tested voltages on CPU and nothing at any of the test points.
Repeated tests with other key positions and cherry switch in alternate positions. Nothing at all.
All 4 fuses are correct and have continuity

[Pitts256]

The power supply has failed.

It may be a bad capacitor on the low voltage board in the supply.

Try replacing C31 (4.7mf - 50v) (see photo). I've replaced a couple of these and the supply then powers up. Also inspect the surrounding area for when the cap fails it will blast the traces with acid and causes a short.

If replacing the cap doesn't restore power then you'll have to find another supply.

FYI: A working Ultra supply is extremely difficult to find. I've yet to run across a schematic. They used a few custom IC's that I haven't been able to find. It has 5 voltage outputs, two failure outputs to the CPU plus solid state relays for the tower lights and the handle release solenoid. 

[BlackKnight]

Pitts256 Yes C31 has leaked good call. Should I just order all New caps for power supply given its age? Does anyone have a full list of their ratings? Or should be marked on outsides. Thanks much

[Pitts256]

 I went through an Ultra supply for one of my machines and replaced nearly all the electrolytic caps. The only one I found bad though was C31. If you choose to replace then all use the face values on the cans.

[BlackKnight]

I most likely will replace all of them. Its all or nothing at this point. Found this lovely cap on the high voltage side at C13. Gonna blast some air on these boards. High voltage side seems more dusty that low voltage side.

[BlackKnight]

Getting order for caps together from mouser. I will match the voltage and uF and general size.
All are 105c temp. Just General Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded. Any need for Low ESR or Low Impedance or High Impedance? Thanks

[Pitts256]

Nothing special...

[BlackKnight]

So I have been removing the old caps and new ones should be here today.

1) On The back side of the Low voltage board,are these 3 green jumper wires normal?

2) I found a lifted pad (red arrow) 

[Pitts256]

The 3 green wire jumpers are normal.

The lifted pad is the power supply failure output signal to the CPU.

The pad just below it is the +12vdc output for the sound amps.

The lifted pad will need to be repaired to restore the signal back to the CPU and also make sure the green jumper wire to it is not shorting out to the +12vdc pad.

 

[BlackKnight]

Thanks for that additional info very much.

Any idea what I need to cut or remove to solder a lithium battery on the  cpu board ?

Would this one be a good choice?

EEMB Lithium Battery
 https://a.co/d/en2WqxO

[Pitts256]

You can use a 1/2AA or 2/3AA 3.6v Lithium with axle solder leads. The board should have holes for either battery.

Cut one lead end of resistor R27 (510 ohms).

 

[BlackKnight]

So I replaced all Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors on High and Low voltage side of power supply. Re-flowed some questionable joints and cleaned off grunge and cap acid in a few areas.

Then added a battery holder and new battery to CPU and cutting Lead on R27 to prevent charging battery.

Just got back from the test of Power Supply and CPU in the machine.

SUCCESS! IT LIVES!

Tested voltages CPU BOARD VOLTAGES (actual meter measurements on my board while game idling)
Test Points
1) 5.12 - yellow (CH5) & black (CH4)
2) 11.95 - red (CH7) & green (CH6)
3) 30.2 - orange (CH3) & green (CH6)
4) 4.96 - blue (CH2) & white (CH1)

Did a reset all red leds flashed 4 times then cycle left to right.

Game takes quarters and plays, sound is good too.

A Huge thank you for all your help.

Still a few weird things going on:

1) The digital segment displays have random missing segments. (See picture) any ideas? cables seem well connected

2) Around the reel bezel are small socketed bulbs I think all are burned out. 28volts.
    They look like pinball bulbs.

My friend has had a few small payouts playing 1 quarter games. But with the messed up segments its hard to tell if the payouts are accurate. I told him to start a log. Thanks Again.

[Pitts256]

Fantastic!!!!!

The voltages are spot on!

The bulbs are 28v #657.

I've been installing modified 12v T10 LED's. You strip off the 8 CAN bus resistors (#132's) and swap the 2 #270's with #681's and these are very bright, burn cool and non-polarized.

Probably the decoder/driver chips for the LED board segments. Chips TR-6 and TR-7, both ULN2003's.


 

[BlackKnight]

Thanks for the LED info a great idea for long term.
I think for know I will get some old style bulbs to get some lights on fast.

Are the decoder/driver chips for the LED board segments. Chips TR-6 and TR-7 (ULN2003) both on the CPU Board? or another location? The board is still in the machine at my friends.

On a picture of the CPU I see a TR6(socket) at rear left side cant see TR7.
Hoping they are both in sockets wherever they are.

[Pitts256]

So comparing the schematic to my Ultra main board they are not the same.

My Ultra board has three 18 pin LED driver chips, TR-6 TR-8 and TR-15. They are all the same, TD62083AP 8ch Darlington Arrays. All in sockets so you can swap them around and see if that makes a difference while waiting for new ones.

Check that LED board ribbon cable (both ends) for oxidized connector pins and that it's fully seated when plugged in. Same for the CPU main board edge connector pins (ECN2), they have a history of being a problem.

[BlackKnight]

Where can I find the schematic for the board I am working on for future reference?

I will be at my friends this am to put bulbs in and check cables.

So just to be clear the TR-6 TR-8 and TR-15s are on the CPU? I will look for them

 Thanks