Bally 1081 payouts all FUBAR

[stingygamer]

So i bought a bally 1081. It was fine when I got it, i verified all payouts for 1, 2 ,and 3 coins. after I moved it to my house, the payouts are FUBAR. No pay for cherry, 2 and 3 cherry pay correctly, O O O and B B B cause a runaway hopper, O O Bar and bell bell bar pay correctly, no pay for plums at all, melons pays as 777 should, and medals, bars, and 777 pay correctly. The issue occurs on a 1, 2, or 3 coin bet.

Ive checked the contacts on the reel board and cleaned them off. I verified the fingers touch all the contacts. I removed and repeated the reel mech and hopper. Is there something im missing? Is there a hopper harness? Is there a part od the hopper which needs adjusted?

Im not a mechanical expert so if you tell me "do this to X part", please describe to me what X part looks like.

[wolftalk]

did you move the machine in one piece, or did you take out the hopper and reel mech to make it a bit lighter?

a common issue is games work fine until you remove/replace the hopper or reel mech, then they get flaky.  In that case, clean the black crud off the pins on the connector plugs with synthetic steel wool, scrub pad or wire wheel on a dremel.    Don't worry about the female sockets unless they look corroded.

it's usually easiest to get payouts working for 1 coin play first.  Medallist is a bit different since it works like three 3-reel machines that share reels ... but ya might as well get the left three working ok then move on to two coin play.

if it's not the plugs connections and some pays work, it's almost always the wiper -> rivet connections on the reel wiper boards.  You already cleaned the rivets, so you just need to make sure the wiper fingers have reasonable pressure on the rivets.  I usually lift each finger a little and let go ... you should hear it snap down onto the rivet.  You don't want too much pressure tho or the wipers can stall and the reel won't index.

the paperwork for a 1081-1 machine is in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/.  I don't have pictures, so if you'd like to email highest possible resolution pics to slotpics@cdyn.com, I'll add them there.  Pic of entire front of the machine as well as lots of internal pics are great. 

in this case, all sides of the reel mech and pics of the wiper boards will help.

another possibility is the payout counter printed circuit traces are cruddy - especially where the wiper contacts are sitting when the unit is reset.  A pic of that unit would be good, and also a pic with the wipers stepped up (rotated) away from the reset position.

note the game uses diodes and DC voltages in the payout circuits, so using a meter to find issues is a little more complicated.  Do you have a multimeter with diode test mode and test leads (wires with alligator clips on each end)?  It's unlikely a diode failed, but the diodes will prevent you from using continuity or lookin for zero ohm resistance readings to test circuit paths thru the reels to the payout counter board.

 

[stingygamer]

i removed the parts to make it lighter. we had to go down rickety short steps, so wee needed it to not be 300 lbs. ill try the stuff you said tonight after work, and ill come back here to update. I do have a miltimetyer and ill check the doiodes and contacts. my phone is banged up so i cant get good pix right now but ill try to asap

[wolftalk]

I remove the pieces also, but it's just 'cause I'm old and lazy :-)

if you're familiar with diode testing, you're probably all set with the schematic.   If not, the general idea is if you put your meter in diode test mode and make sure the black/- lead of the meter is on the banded end of the diode, you should see around .6V when checking with the game power off assuming there's no other closed circuit going around the diode.

you can use that to check the circuits from the reels to the traces on the payout counter disc.  For example, if you clip the red meter lead on the 2 trace on the payout counter (somehow :-)) and have a cherry on the payline on reel 1, you should see the 0.6V in diode test mode if you put the other lead on gray wire 90 on the reel 3 wiper board (somehow again ... here's where jumper leads are handy as you can clip them onto places and shove the units back in the machine).

the w-1041-xxx doc on the bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ web site is the wiring diagram for the reel wiper boards, so that takes a lot of guessing wire colors out of the picture.

[stingygamer]

the diodes are good. i fixed the hopper. did everything suggested above and hopper stopped overpays, but still wont pay on 1 cherry. think its beau plugs on reel bundle, one male plug recedes when trying to insert it . planning to rig it up to not recede


edit 11/4 got held up late at work and another 12 hour shift today. i will update when i can fix it.

[wolftalk]

the single cherry pay wire is 13 (red/yellow) going to the 2 trace on the payout counter disc (assuming the 1081-1 schematic is the same as what you have).

if it's a plug issue, then single cherry wins won't work on any number of coins played, tho there's the tiny possibility that wire 13 is broken on reel 1,2 or 3.  The wire daisy chains between those three reel wiper boards and the reel mech plug, so there will be double wires on two of those four places.

which spots have the double wires there's no way to know from the paperwork ... it's manufacturing convenience.  It's a good bet that the plug and either reel 1 or reel 3 have single wires tho.

[stingygamer]

Hey guys she's up and running thanks for the help. It was an issue with a beautiful plug male part that had to be reversed and then re-sautered

[stingygamer]

Well it stopped paying on medals now. Ugh

[DavidLee]

Re-trace the corrections you made.
Something else could have been disrupted while fixing the previous problem.

Possibly a faulty connection at the reels beau-plugs.
Try moving the reels in, out, left and right slightly.

[stingygamer]

moving the reels down while on the winning combo makes it pay.

[DavidLee]

The wiper contacts on the wiper boards probably need cleaning or the index arm(s) need a slight adjustment.
If everything else pays okay, then cleaning would be the first course of action.
If this is for a large payout amount, then these contracts most likely need to be cleaned.
As they don’t get much action resulting in tarnished and or dirty.

[stingygamer]

thanks dave. i have thoroughly scrubbed the contacts and wipers with a wire brush, a few days ago. the issue of no pay for medals came up a few days ago, right after i had thought i had the machine running properly. they paid normally for a few days, then stopped.

[wolftalk]

moving the reels with your finger up/down shifts the wiper contact positions on the reel wiper boards.

to tmi what david said, you may need to loosen the two screws holding the wiper assemblies to the reel index arms and shift the wipers around to get the contacts more centered on rivets.

it can be finicky to get the contacts onto the right rivets without shorting to adjacent rivets, especially if the contacts have worn down a lot ... so shift one reel at a time up/down and only adjust the wiper positions on the one that makes the pay work.

also look at what part of the contact is actually touching a rivet.  it's common for a finger to look like it's touching an adjacent rivet, but the contact is raising the finger tip high enough that it's not touching ... until the contact wears down enough.

rarely if the wiper fingers have been mangled you'll need to flatten/straighten them to get the contacts lined up with each other.

the wiper fingers on the upper rivets on the reel wiper boards are in the pay circuits.  The wipers lower down are usually just in the 6V bell/lamp circuits.

[DavidLee]

Cleaning the wipes and boards could have tweaked the blade(s) just enough to loose contact.
Before adjusting the wiper via the index arm. Set them all on a like payout, like three oranges
or like bars. Then sight over the wipers, if on is out of alignment it will in most cases be noticeable.
When loosening the screws, loosening them just enough so they move under tension.
I usually loosen one and keep some tension on the other. This helps in making minute adjustments.
This is a rare occurrence for wiper arms, so I would suspect a blade is at fault.

Cleaning the contacts could have taken a little bit of arc out of the blade. Thus causing it to run past or stop prematurely if too much arc was created.