S2000 from Hell with no winner paid, coin in or vfd

[FoRrHouse]

So, I need some help.
I have an S2000 that's been giving me issues.

There is nothing on the winner paid/ credits, credit played display or VFD.

Things I have done to troubleshoot.:

1) Replaced VFD with one from a good working machine
2) Replaced VFD controller board with one from a good working machine
3) Replaced winner paid/ credits, credit played display with one from a good working machine
4) Replaced MPU with one from a good working machine
5) Replaced Motherboard/backplane with one from a good working machine
6) Replaced Door I/O with one from a good working machine
7) Replaced Power Supply with one from a good working machine
Replaced button panel harness
9) Replaced cabinet harness
10) Replaced power harness
11) Replaced cabinet to top box harness

None of this helped and still no VFD or Credits/winner  paid display.
What am I missing?
Everything is plugged into the right place.

At this point I'm pretty much   

Any suggestions?

[lookes]

What LED's light on the MPU when you turn it on? Does it boot up and play?

[FoRrHouse]

2 Amber leds and a green led below it.
No boot though

[lookes]

If you leave it sit for 30 seconds or so do you get nO dISP on the LED display? Try unplugging the bill validator and printer. Your MPU is trying to boot as the MPU LED's indicate, so you probably have good power etc. Until NETPLEX devices finish booting you won't get any SENET action like button lights and LED displays other than the nO dISP message.

[FoRrHouse]

OK. I will try that tomorrow and let you know what happens.
I have been working on it all day.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Try this?
Lot of bad power supplies coming out on the second market....things are going on 20+ years old.
I know you said you tried a known good PSU but they can burn out just by swapping out and turning ON the power switch - they're like light bulbs.

Set your digital multimeter to 200 or 20volts DC.
Stick your red probe into the back of that single black wire going into that bottom power Molex, as in the photo below.
Ground your black probe onto the floor of the cabinet.
You need to get somewhere around 6.6 volts DC coming out of that wire showing on your multimeter.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed.
I have it set to a higher resolution...>>>

[FoRrHouse]

So, I tried 3 different power supplies. and used my multimeter (Fluke 87) as indicated above and the results are as follows.

Power Supply 1: 5.2v then immediately drops to 0.4 and fluctuates

Power Supply 2: Hisses and measures .5, .4, etc and fluctuates in the .4 range

Power Supply 3: Hisses and measures .5, .4, etc and fluctuates in the .4 range

I also did as lookes said and unplugged the validator and printer.

So, I guess bad power supplies.
Power Supply 1 which I previously tested in a working machine and which worked, must have gone bad.

[Jim]

Unplug all three electronic ballasts, the three wire connection with the orange wire, black wire and orange tracer, and green wire.
See if that cures the power problem.

They will shut down the power supply.

Hope this helps
Jim

[Stayouttadabunker]

Here's the best explanantion of why I asked you to check that single black wire on the backplane power Molex.
That one actually runs up to pin-7 on the PSU up behind the reels.
Attached below is a .pdf file I named "S2000 Power Supply - Pin 7".
I found it a while back in an issue first published in 2009.
I believe it was actualy put together by Randy Fromm in Vegas from his class...>>>

[FoRrHouse]

@Stayouttadabunker.  I followed your directions. Does it matter whether or not the reels or mpu are in when doing this test?
I'm using a Fluke 87 multi meter. Other than setting it to check for continuity, setting it to dc or ac voltage,etc, I'm not sure how to set it for 20 v dc.
I just put it on the DC connected to what you said.  According to Google the Fluke 87 is an auto sensing unit and you don't need to set it to a a specific voltage range. Do you know if this is correct?  Did i do the test correctly in regards to how I set my multi meter. I'm not too familiar with these.

[FoRrHouse]

@Stayouttadabunker & @Jim. Went over to my known working machine with good supply on it and did the test. Comes up with the proper voltage 6.2V.
I was wondering for a minute if I was doing the test right because I tested 3 separate power supplies that I had previously tested and all 3 have gone bad so I ordered 3 more.

Jim I unplugged all of the ballasts too, with no result.

[Stayouttadabunker]

6.2 volts on that single black wire should be okay.
I don't know your multimeter.
I think you could set it on the V with the squiggly ~ wavy line over it? lol

What did you get with the orange and red wires?
The 3rd and 4th holes on that power Molex down the left column.
Stick the red probe in the 3rd hole with the red wire and the black probe on the floor of the cabinet.

Also find the voltage between the 4th hole with the orange wire, and the ground floor.

I think I found your Fluke 87 multimeter manual.
Look at page 19...>>>

https://assets.fluke.com/manuals/87______umeng0800.pdf

[FoRrHouse]

@Stayouttadabunker  Thanks for finding the manual. I appreciate that.  DC is the strait line with the dotted line under it.
It does appear that my multimeter is autosensing according to the manual. So, Google's Ai was right. Lol  That also means I was doing the test right then.
As for the other reading on the 3rd & 4th holes, the orange and red wires, I will check when the machine is in front of me tomorrow.

Eventually, I'd like to have someone recap these supplies for me. I need to source the correct caps, but I want to use high temp 105C caps and and one of the better brands like Nichicon, Rubycon, or Panasonic.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Capacitors and parts like that can be bought at online warehouses like...>>>

Mouser Electronics
Newark Electronics
Digi-Key Electronics
Jameco Electronics
Kiesub Electronics
Skycraftsurplus
Octopart.com
of course  there's always eBay and Amazon

[FoRrHouse]

So, I replaced the power supply in this machine with a new one I got from a reliable seller who thoroughly tested it. I figured that this would solve the machines problem, but no.
The machine turns on and there is still no vfd no coin in display. Honestly, I think I'm going to scrap this machine. It's like there is a ghost in it. Lol. Every part has been swapped with a known good part. There is only one last thing that I can replace, which is the power part of the cabinet harness. I replaced the original one with an old one that i had, but that made no difference, I had another old spare which was untested and that didn't work, but both looked like they were kind of weathered. I don't want to put more than another $25 in this machine as I have put enough $$ in and at some point it's just not worth it. Something tells me it has to be this part of the harness as power must not be getting to the vfd or coin in display.

Anybody have any ideas on what could be going on with this machine? Anybody have a tested power supply portion of the harness they want to sell for about $25.

Thanks,
Eric

[FoRrHouse]

After a break from this machine since November I decided I would try a few more things to see if I could get It going. I purchased another entire machine harness installed it and still the same issue.  No VFD and No winner paid, credits paid/credits display. Both are completely dark. Validator cycles, mpu stays at 2 Amber and one Green Light.  Reel lights stay constantly lit, I'm assuming because it's not fully booting.
All I can do is replace the backplane with a known working one which I'll have to buy, but I found some for $20.  I tried 3 different backplanes, but none were verified working! I figured 3 couldn't be bad, but considering the source I got them from around 15+ years ago it is possible.  Anybody have any idea what the issue could be.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I know you've said you've swapped display driver board but there's a black and red wire going to the driver board on the door panel.
That lights up a couple of LEDs on the driver board.
Are those LEDs flashing?
From there, the ribbon cable does the rest to get your Displays lit up.
You have to get something lit up on the displays.

Are you positive there's no folded chip legs under the body across the top of the socket?
Slowly pull up on those chips and inspect the legs.

[FoRrHouse]

There's a green led on the vfd driver board that blinks. There could be more, but the plastic cover is over the driver board.  I'll take the cover off when I go to my mom's again tomorrow. That's where my machines are. As to bent pins; there are none. I checked. Not only did I check, but I put ta 3rd board working from another machine in and the machines does the exact same thing. Just another fun fact. All wiring from the top is disconnected too. I've disconnected the Bill validator and all netplex plugs form the backplane and there is no printer connected. It does the same thing in this configuration.

[Stayouttadabunker]

When you go back...slide out the the MPU a couple of inches and turn ON the power switch.
The LED display should at least display something....if the bill validator was connected, you'd even hear the motors run the cashbox to home position.
I'm surprised you don't even get "No display" out of the LEDs.
On the PDU box...there's a ribbon cable there too...from the PDU to the backplane.
Maybe it's loose?
IDK...I'd be checking every little thing...lol
Like for instance...if this has a double row of buttons on the deck with two I/O cards, swapping the connectors...could be backwards on the wrong i/o's. You know what I mean.

Your machine has got me going...it made me pass Rick Hunter all-time posting stuff...haha
He must be laughing his A off...lol

[FoRrHouse]

Well, if I didn't shave my head bald, I'd have pulled all my hair out at this point! Lol.
When plugged in, the bill validator does cycle. You do hear the cash box.  It's an MEI 6602.
It seems normal. Blinks 1 green light. I'm ahead of you on both ribbon cables. I checked both
the one from the backplane to the power distribution box and the ribbon cable from the VFD to
the VFD controller board on the door.  Both were fully seated at both ends. I even tried a different
set of cables. Somebody here had suggested unplugging all ballasts in November. I remembered
this and did that too.  All grounds are in place.  (Button deck, inner door panel @the ballast harness,
cabinet to door, above reel shelf @ ballast on left of cabinet, back wall. @hopper plug to bottom of cabinet. ). 
I've checked all wires that plug into each other. They are plugged in and snug. (3x) 1x2s at the left rear of
the of the real shelf). There is one Molex 1x2 .093 series orange wires +stripes, a Molex Black 1x2 SL
connector, Molex 1x2 Mini Fit jr.  I'll try sliding out the the MPU a couple of inches and turning ON the power
switch and seeing what happens and let you know.