IGT G23 - CSDA Flashing Error

[chrisduncan]

Hey'all
Im hoping someone can help me. I have an IGT g23 which has been working fine. Yesterday i turned in on and it was fine and then an hour later the buttons starting flashing CSDA. Turned it off and on again same issue. I plugged out the button board hdmi and put it back in and unplugged all the usbs on the cpu on the side and plugged all back in. turned the machine back on and it played fine. This morning turned it on and CSDA flashing lights just a minute after turning it on.

Im not savvy at all as its a new hobby. I have two other IGT23s so tried swapping the little button board and reconnected the connectors and hdmi and same issue. tried another ribbon cable no luck, tried HDMI new and again no luck.

I looked up other peoples similar issues but cant find a USB mini as it states not sure if thats a G20 or sonething. Can anyone give me so ideas, as i mentioned i dont know anything about these machines please be kind and patient with me. Hopefully someone can help

[sccarlso]

Is the green ground wire with a red O connector in the pic that's marked with a red square disconnected normally?  Or did you disconnect it to show the HDMI board?

That always needs to be grounded to the chassis with a nut holding it securely.  If you didn't disconnect it.  It needs to be connected to a ground.  If it's always been disconnected.  Perhaps it's touching the chassis and works for a while, then it moves a little so it's no longer grounded or it's intermittently grounded, which could make your buttons go wonky if the connection isn't solid so it's always making a solid ground connection.

Pic attached of yours, compared to mine and it's red boxed where the green wire on my G23 is grounded to.   There might be a grounding screw on yours in the same location.  But any bolt with a nut to the chassis should be fine.   

[sccarlso]

If that green wire is grounded and the same occurs.  You can also try resetting the blackfin controller.  Can be done with the machine running no problem.
The attached pic shows where the button is that you can press for a second or so to reset the blackfin controller to see if that helps at all.

I had a similar issue on my G23, but it was self inflicted when I flashed the firmware for the button deck and missed an important step when flashing it which caused it to revert to recovery firmware.  I found what I had overlooked (just changing some DIP switches before flashing the button firmware).  Then it was fully restored again.  But it didn't just happen out of the blue.

Side note.  In the second pic you sent, I marked it with a red box is quite interesting!   I don't know what that is, but it kind of looks like a Raspberry Pi!

Do you, or anyone else know what that box is actually for?  It's not a factory part on a G23 as far as I know.   

[chrisduncan]

Thanks for the replies - that controller is my TITO device,
I also had those two parts grounded and screwed properly. I disconnected just to try the button board from my other machine to this one.
I still get the same error
Not sure if it helps but I dont even get the blue IGT screen when starting it comes up with No Sync not sure if thats important or it does that if the buttons cant connect. Its frustrating tried so many things hoping its an easy fix.
I read threads about mini usbs disconnected not sure if thats it too

Happy to try any other suggestions at this stage,

[Stayouttadabunker]

Inside the red box is the older blue TITO board...the newer ones are white.

...I disconnected just to try the button board from my other machine to this one.
I still get the same error...

What bothers me with this statement is that I'm unsure if you did that with the power ON?
Whenever you're checking connections to the buttons. or doing anything with them, the power switch to the machine must be OFF.
You cannot "hot-swap" anything with those buttons...not even press on a loose ribbon connector.

[chrisduncan]

Yes power was off for all changes. I always pull out the black power connector and wait 5 minutes before i change or swap anything.

[sccarlso]

Interesting, I've never seen a tito board with a network cable.   

The only time I experienced that exact behavior was when the Blackfin controller firmware was corrupted.  You have a v2 machine so it's not a seperate board like it is on v1 machines.  It's embedded in the controller board with the yellow handle so it's easy to remove and plug back in.  Since you swapped those other parts and there was no change in behavior, I'd swap them back to how they were.

Hopefully your other machine is also a v2 where the controller board has a yellow handle. 

If it is.  It takes about 5 min.  Unplug power at the power supply in the machine on both of them.  So no power is getting to anything, if the power plug is connected, the controller board is still getting power even if its just switched off.  So the plug to the power supplies have to be physically unplugged.   And take the controller board from the working machine out.  With the cables disconnected it slides right out by pulling the handle, and put it in the machine with the blinking buttons and reattach the cables.  Then plug the power cable back into the problem machine, power it on and see if the buttons still do the same thing.   

If the buttons work normally again with the controller board from the other machine.  Then the Blackfin firmware is likely corrupt in the controller board.  Without a Win7 laptop with the proper software I can't think of another way to test this.
 
If you have two v2 machines and the buttons works fine on your other one (or you have a spare controller board around...), the controller board can be swapped between machines as long as the plug to the power supply is unplugged on them.  No clearing of anything is required if the controller board is replaced or swapped with one from a known good machine.  You could even put the controller board from the machine with the button problem in your other machine and see if the problem follows as a double test.  If you do and then your other machine has the buttons flashing in the same manner.   The Blackfin board that's embedded in the board is what drives the buttons. 

So if the problem follows whatever machine that controller board is put into, or putting a known good controller board into the machine with the problem fixes the button problem.  Confirms the issue is the Blackfin board in that specific controller board.  Most likely the firmware.  Only thing that's a pain that you have to be careful with is the ribbon cable.  The other cables are just the USB cables if I recall, so those are easy to disconnect and reconnect. 

If that's confirmed and the problem is resolved with the controller board from your other machine in it.  At least it's not an expensive repair.   You can usually get a replacement v2 controller board for $70 or so from a slot part shop or even on ebay and are the same board in both G20's and G23's.  I have numerous v2 machines so I keep a spare on hand in case I ever need a replacement someday.

[chrisduncan]

Thanks sccarlso for your detailed reply. I tried all of that and no luck. i was about to give up and decided to swap over the power supply boxes and it worked. The back of it was brown so reailsed it was that. Its strange as if i put the damaged power box to one of my other igt g23s they dont turn on at all but this one it does and then the screen and. buttons flash. Ordered a few more incase it happens again.

Thankyou though for your help

[Stayouttadabunker]

Unfortunately, changing the power supply unit is only a temporary fix.
The female pins in the socket that the PSU slides into, are also burned out.
Those pins all really need to be changed before you blow the replacement PSU as well.