(URGENT!) Bally 902-1 Reels not kicking

[MazzKmazz]

     Hey everyone, I recently picked up a complete Bally 902-1 bonus line jackpot machine off of Facebook marketplace for fifty bucks. It had multiple problems, including a missing plug, but I managed to get everything working besides two problems with the reels and handle. The handle sticks down when I pull it, I am aware of the stop bar, and I have adjusted it but to no avail. For the time being I've taken off the spring from the bar (not sure about this) to stop myself from having to reach a screwdriver into the mech to unlock the bar again. I'd like to fix this in a more professional matter if possible. The other, more serious, problem is that the handle doesn't have enough downward force to kick the reels. I can push down on the air cylinder when they're outside of the machine and they kick and stop perfectly, and I can also push them about an inch while they're inside the machine while the handle is depressed and they kick, but they will not kick manually. I need this fixed within the coming week because I have a family gathering I'm hosting and I'd like for everyone to be able to play on a real slot. Thanks.

[wolftalk]

I'm not sure what the spring and stop bar in your description is, so ...
 
you can find paperwork like the bally manuals in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ - look in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_manuals/ for the 1100, 2400 and 2600 manuals.  The 2400/2600 kinda supercedes the 1100.  Most of the 1100 info applies but you may have a ratcheting piece and spring difference that is shown in the later manuals.

below refers to page 14 of the 1100 manual unless stated.  Page 14 is a hugely overcomplicated adjustment procedure for the right side of the reel mech which is involved in reel kick.  What really matters is the stop bracket (J) is positioned correctly so the latch pawl (O) pivots off the bottom of the trip lever (N).

in practice:

1] look at the fork on the handle shaft (page 26 #48) and make sure it's not worn and can't twist on shaft it's keyed onto.  The fork opening should be horizontal when the handle is up.  Since the fork is keyed onto the shaft, eventually the hole in the fork will start to oval out and the fork shifts.  The fix is replace the worn fork ... I'm pretty sure I have some.

2] when you install the reels, the peg on the big gear should pretty much be centered in the fork and didn't move the fork up/down as you slide the reels in.  You can adjust the nut (E) on the end of the larger threaded/spring shaft (F) to alter the gear/peg position at rest, and eventually move the leftmost nut (H) to get the 1/16" or so of free play before the moving shaft starts pushing the trip lever.

3] the right edge of the stop bracket (J) is typically lined up or slightly forward of the rear edge of the unit frame.  If J is too far back, the reels kick early before the reel index arms are latched and you don't get a good/any spin on one or more reels.   If J is too far forward the handle will bottom out before the latch pawl slides off the trip arm and you're stuck there.

a sequence of pictures is here:
   https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/windup_and_kick/imagegallery.php

the force for the reel spin is coming from springs under the reels.  When the latch pawl (O) slides off the trip arm, the trip arm should slam back down onto the rubber stop with nothing really slowing it down.  If your handle mechanism is gunked up (i.e. pushing down on the actuating link - 1100 manual, page 84 #7 isn't really easy), that'll slow down the trip arm returning to rest and may slow the reel spin).

there's a bad video showing the handle release relay and you can kinda get an idea of how easy it should be to push down the actuating link here:
   https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Handle_Release.mp4


if you can email as many highest possible resolution pictures of the game as you can to slotpics@cdyn.com, that'd help ... especially the entire front of the machine, all sides of the reel mech and hopper, the inside of the door and pictures inside the cabinet like the entire side where the handle is.

if you can take pics of the both sides of the lamp panel behind the top glass, that'd also be great.    Close ups aren't needed when the pics are high res, but shots taken from a few angles so labels can be read helps - especially the top panel.

if sending from a phone/tablet, sent "actual size" so the thing doesn't downscale them.  Putting pics on a file sharing/cloud drive also works.



 

[MazzKmazz]

     Update:

     Thanks, wolftalk, I had noticed on my E-2214 machine that the positioning of the two half gears on the reel mech was different from the 902. I moved the left gear on the 902 2 pins counter-clockwise and the reels began spinning and stopping almost flawlessly. Though I ran into a few problems, one being that the plunger of the air cylinder gets pushed back after each handle pull, and it has to be pulled back forward after each game to engage the reels again. The hopper also pays out several coins before the reels stop and then pay them out again. I believe this is the result of the bonus line reel being immediately registered upon stopping. I will send photos to the email mentioned in your previous post.

[wolftalk]

sounds like something is way off in the shaft configuration.

if the handle goes all the way up, the half gears should have moved back to home and pulled the u-shaped bracket out of the air cylinder.  More importantly, the latch pawl should have cleared the trip lever and spun clockwise again so pulling the handle will make it ram into the black trip lever and wind up the machine.

below pic is the correct meshing of the half-gears.  This should be the same on the E series machines.

the spring poking up behind the right gear in the pic is the old design.  The updated design had an extension spring going over to the peg left of the black trip lever and ratchet.  A lot of earlier machines were updated, but people got lazy and didn't do the spring ... they just added the black toothed ratchet and small torsion spring like in the pic.

payout should not be possible until the reel mech A and C switches (vertical switch stacks on the left side of the reel mech) have closed.  You care about the A switch with the orange/green and blue/yellow wires, and the C-1 switch ("bottom" switch in the stack) with the blue/yellow and brown wires.

a reel mech A-2 switch with yellow and yellow/brown wires closes to turn on the B/C/T lights, but the span of 5 connected wiper fingers on the reel 1 wiper assembly should not be touching any rivets in the top 4 arcs on the contact plate, so the 6V lamp circuit is separated from the 50V payout circuit.

there's a windup and kick clock side video in https://bingo.cdyn.com/videos/ that shows the timer link moving the reel mech A and C switch stacks.  The reels should all be indexed before the stacks get their push toward the machine front and the payout circuit is connected.

 

[DavidLee]

Not sure if you cleaned the air cylinder, but if it’s gummed up inside.
This will affect the handle mechanism and possibly prevent the machine from tripping the reels properly.
Thoroughly cleaning the mechanisms below the reels will also help in performance.
I’ve described the method I use many times on this site. On how I clean the mechanism below the reels.
 It should be easy to find in the "search this form."