Wms bb2 meter fault

[Mndusty]

So my machine is throwing a meter fault and I done some researching for the meter bypass or to disable it. And I seen one for a machine but not clear info for the bb2. So I was wondering if there is an update on this issue. I haven’t really found any replacement parts if needed. I took the bottom screen to look at the meters and I don’t know how it’s attached to the machine to be able to take out. Does anyone know any more info on this machine?

[Stayouttadabunker]

Here's an easy way...contact our local NLG Member named RB.
He could have a special jurisdictional chip for your machine, that will not require any mechanical meters.

[sccarlso]

I have no way to check so I can't be certain.  But the Mississippi Jur chip might just "ignore" the meters.  The machine "might" still tilt if the meters are not seen as physically connected.  Also even if it works fine, the Mississippi Jur chip still forces a handpay at $1200 which most want eliminated as well!

On my BB2 I have a Columbia Jur chip so it doesn't force any handpay on any amount won.   

The meter eliminate job is really easy, I'm sure there's a prior post about it.    But if you unplug the connector on the lower door that goes from all the meters to a molex plug which then goes to the backplane. 

Each individual meter is just connected by 2 wires.  I think there are 5 meters total.  So there's two pins in a 10 pin molex plug for each meter, two rows of 5 pins, or two rows of 4 pins (can't recall right now, lol  But it doesn't matter if there are 4 or 5 meters in there) if you have 4 meters you use 4 resistors, if you have 5 you use 5 resistors.

To eliminate the meters, it's not like anyone would want to "restore" the annoying clicking meters really, so I didn't bother getting a molex plug.  On the cable that connects to the meters from the backplane, at the main lower door there's a molex plug where it then has two wires going to each meter near the meters in the door.  Just unplug it. 

On the molex plug that's going TO the backplane from the meters (NOT the one going TO the meters from the molex plug you just disconnected).  I just put a simple resistor across each of the pins (One resistor from each top row pin on the molex connector to the corresponding pin directly below it on the molex plug that goes to the backplane), and dropped a dab of solder in each hole to hold each pin of the resistor inside the plug securely.  Took about 10 minutes.

It doesn't have to be the exact resistance.  But if you must know the exact value, you can simply put the lead of a multimeter set for Ohms on one wire on one of the meters (on the plug side of the connector that goes TO one of the meters, not to the backplane), the other multimeter lead on the pin directly below it, and read the resistance.   And just get a pack of resistors that's "close" to that ohms value.   Maybe someone knows the exact value in Ohms or "what will work" or I'm sure it's in a prior post if you search the WMS board for it.

With a resistor jumpered across each of the pins on the top of the connector to the pin directly below it.  Now the machine "thinks" that all meters are present as the circuit is complete.

Then you can use a Columbia Jur chip that has no forced handpays.  And the machine thinks the meters are there but aren't....  So no tilt, and no clicking!  Perm disable of the actual meters and the annoying clicking.

I had a big pack of like 1000 resistors, so I just grabbed ones close to the value mentioned in a prior post to solder in place across each wire on the plug that goes to each individual meter on the molex plug that goes to the backplane.  Works perfectly.

At least one member was making molex plugs with the resistors soldered in it already, so you could just unplug the meters, and plug the "meter disable" molex plug into the molex connector that goes to the backplane to make it simple to disable the meters, and so the meters could easily be restored again later.   But the main reason was just for those who didn't want to solder the resistors in themselves and be able to disable the meters by just connecting the premade plug into the cable going to the backplane.   

Not a meter click since, and the machine always "thinks" they are present.  I would disable all the meters like this than fix a clicking meter you really don't want anyway.