Bally 809G, 1968, progressive, another restoration project.

[David Walz]

Picked this up today.
Can't find a 809G In Wolftalk's files. 
Bally
Model: 809g
Serial: MT641
Year: 06-17-68
M-645-118
Hopper:  809g 5¢ (set up for 25¢)
809ZU was painted on the reel housing, however I see it's a 809G
reel tapes :
m-220-[758, 759, 760] -
Disc:
484- 642s
484-643s
484-644s

The only other one is 809B has the same disc, payout, tapes, etc. I am using it for comparison.

[David Walz]

More

[David Walz]

More

[David Walz]

So where is Wolftalk? I need some input here.

 

[shortrackskater]

So where is Wolftalk? I need some input here.

 

Sleeping?  It's still quite early. 

[David Walz]

So where is Wolftalk? I need some input here.

 

Sleeping?  It's still quite early. 

Must be sleeping in late.

[David Walz]

I figured out what the top glass is with 5¢. This is for the even numbers. It is for this 809G.

[David Walz]

A 25¢ glass, this is the even numbers. It is for this 809G.

[David Walz]

Interesting that the reels match up with the 809G just like everything else that matches up with the 809G. I checked out everything on the reels, plugs, wiring, tapes, discs, everything matches up. I am using the 809B for comparison.

Obviously this reel assembly is not A 809ZU.

[David Walz]

The door plug is burnt. I located a wiring harness for a door that is complete.

[David Walz]

I thought it was a old junker for parts, now I realize it's complete. This is really a great find, I honestly told the seller it was a bunch of parts since the reels were a different model number painted on the front of the reels. Fact is all of the reel numbers match up with everything else on the machine.

I feel kinda bad for low, low, balling him. NOT 

[David Walz]

Found this 809B information. Same as the 809G.
model : 809-B
description : triple bar
customer : bally
reel tapes : m-220-758, 759, 760
reel contact plate wiring : w-1041-979, 980, 981
schematic : w-1046-511 or w-1046-1756
payout counter : w-923-63
reel glass : g-349-221-5
bottom glass : g-350a-size-49, g-355-size-17-[5,10,25]
index reels : p-484-642, 643, 644
odds disc : w-1090-2

[David Walz]

A shout out to Brent at KLAR for the 809G glass. 

[wolftalk]

809-ZU and 809-G are both triple bar games made for the mint hotel/casino.

they used the same tapes. index discs, reel wiper wiring and payout counter.

the only diff from my docs is the bottom glass, but without schematics there's no way to know if there were other small changes like when the bell rang, tower lights, electronics door lock, etc.

the 809-zu reel mech is probably interchangeable with an 809-g.

as you've found, the 809-B also uses the same stuff, so the paperwork for that will match most of your machine.

generally speaking, any "triple bar" variant of an 809 will be very close to each other.   When the reel tapes, index disc and payout counter change from the ones used on an 809-B (depending on coin denomination), then the customer changed the payouts.

[David Walz]

809-ZU abd 809-G are both triple bar games made for the mint hotel/casino.

they used the same tapes. index discs, reel wiper wiring and payout counter.

the only diff from my docs is the bottom glass, but without schematics there's no way to know if there were other small changes like when the bell rang, tower lights, electronics door lock, etc.

the 809-zu reel mech is probably interchangeable with an 809-g.

as you've found, the 809-B also uses the same stuff, so the paperwork for that will match most of your machine.

generally speaking, any "triple bar" variant of an 809 will be very close to each other.   When the reel tapes, index disc and payout counter change from the ones used on an 809-B (depending on coin denomination), then the customer changed the payouts.

Thanks, and nice to hear from you again. 

[David Walz]

809-ZU abd 809-G are both triple bar games made for the mint hotel/casino.

they used the same tapes. index discs, reel wiper wiring and payout counter.

the only diff from my docs is the bottom glass, but without schematics there's no way to know if there were other small changes like when the bell rang, tower lights, electronics door lock, etc.

the 809-zu reel mech is probably interchangeable with an 809-g.

as you've found, the 809-B also uses the same stuff, so the paperwork for that will match most of your machine.

generally speaking, any "triple bar" variant of an 809 will be very close to each other.   When the reel tapes, index disc and payout counter change from the ones used on an 809-B (depending on coin denomination), then the customer changed the payouts.

Wolftalk,

I am trying to remember the name/part number for the Molex connector pins for the door. 

[wolftalk]

the parts manuals have referred to the door plugs as mate-n-lock or molex.

problem is, those are different companies.

mate-n-lok is a product made by TE Connectivity, and I've never found a specification for a connector with the pin style bally used.

it's probably kinda moot ... even if the original part bally used can be identified, they are obsolete.  Maybe the best chance of finding the part number is get copies of bally folders 28 and 37 from the strong museum:

   https://museumofplay.org/app/uploads/2021/09/Finding-Aid-to-the-Bally-Midway-Williams-records_102218.pdf

but I never bothered.  The gamble is whether they have useful info or just the bally part numbers.  I once got a parts list for a 1940 pinball and it did say the value of a resistor I needed, but for the most part the docs just show bally part numbers and assembly numbers which aren't helpful.

that leaves ya with only one consideration ... are you trying to find something that snaps into the bracket on the door?  I stopped looking years ago and just replaced a burnt connector with a molex one and zip tied it to the bracket.  Removing the bracket would also be an option.

the most likely replacements size-wise would come from the mate-n-lok commercial or universal series.  Those both use the typical round pins, so you have to replace the entire connector and repin all the wires.

the really lazy approach is leave the connector with the good pins and just add another connector with enough pins to deal with the burnt ones.  You probably would need to splice on a little wire.

'course, if you have a good connector from a parts machine, you can just swap pieces.  That's not really an option for most folks.

[David Walz]

the parts manuals have referred to the door plugs as mate-n-lock or molex.

problem is, those are different companies.

mate-n-lok is a product made by TE Connectivity, and I've never found a specification for a connector with the pin style bally used.

it's probably kinda moot ... even if the original part bally used can be identified, they are obsolete.  Maybe the best chance of finding the part number is get copies of bally folders 28 and 37 from the strong museum:

   https://museumofplay.org/app/uploads/2021/09/Finding-Aid-to-the-Bally-Midway-Williams-records_102218.pdf

but I never bothered.  The gamble is whether they have useful info or just the bally part numbers.  I once got a parts list for a 1940 pinball and it did say the value of a resistor I needed, but for the most part the docs just show bally part numbers and assembly numbers which aren't helpful.

that leaves ya with only one consideration ... are you trying to find something that snaps into the bracket on the door?  I stopped looking years ago and just replaced a burnt connector with a molex one and zip tied it to the bracket.  Removing the bracket would also be an option.

the most likely replacements size-wise would come from the mate-n-lok commercial or universal series.  Those both use the typical round pins, so you have to replace the entire connector and repin all the wires.

the really lazy approach is leave the connector with the good pins and just add another connector with enough pins to deal with the burnt ones.  You probably would need to splice on a little wire.

'course, if you have a good connector from a parts machine, you can just swap pieces.  That's not really an option for most folks.

Thanks, I have a donor, complete wiring harness, coming in, so the plugs are not a problem. I need to research the pins, I know that I found them before, and they worked great.

Time to start going over my library of information, see what I written down.

[David Walz]

 Brent from KLAR found me a awesome piece of "special" reel glass. 

[wolftalk]

Thanks, I have a donor, complete wiring harness, coming in, so the plugs are not a problem. I need to research the pins, I know that I found them before, and they worked great.

Time to start going over my library of information, see what I written down.

for the door plugs?

the plugs used elsewhere in the machines are usually molex, and those use the round pins which are still available.

there's pins that look similar to the ones in the door connector that are intended to mate to a header pin.   The pin compresses a bit to maintain tension against the side of the header pin.  If you don't overload the connection, it works fine. 

on the pinballs, they occasionally ran too much current thru the pins - typically for the general illumination lamps that were always on - and you got the same effect as the slots ... as the connection deteriorated heat gets generated and you get burns and melting of the connector shell.

replacing the connector with another one of the same style is perpetuating the problem, but for home use it won't likely reappear until someone else has to deal with it, and they'd probably do the cheapest thing - remove the connector entirely and splice the wires together.  How often does the door need to be removed so the plugs have a use :-)