Hopper weight Issue

[MadMaxx123]

I have been fine tuning my Crazy Bars, all is working great accept for the hopper weight stitch...
I set it all up on the bench and it works fine... but in the machine it pays up awfully...
When I close the door of the machine it pushes against the hopper handle (to keep it from moving I guess) but this is distorting the hopper slightly.. This in turn causes the microswitch to trigger.. If I adjust the bolt so the microswitch is not triggered then it will never trigger....I think the distortion is also putting pressure on the hinge of the hopper causing it to stick..
It's almost like the handle is slightly too long or the the hopper is not going back far enough (but it is)...
I have included a couple of photos, you can see the line on the handle and a bark on the payout tray light cover where the two are pressing against each other...


Any Suggestions?

Thanks

[shortrackskater]

It almost looks like your hopper isn't fully pushed in. Can you remove it and post a photo of the plug and area behind it. Inspect that section and make sure everything's screwed in all the way! Check for anything that might be keeping the hopper from being fully engaged in the back plug.

[MadMaxx123]

I think you are correct..

Spotted something on the back of the hopper and then managed to get my phone in the right spot to capture the connection of the hopper when home.. see if you can spot the gotcha...
Maybe the mech came from another machine or the sled was swapped.. I duno but bit of time in the machine shop should fix it..

[shortrackskater]

You can loosen all those fasteners yourself and realign or "square up"  the unit. Over time, (and possibly many people messing with it), things can get wonky!

[MadMaxx123]

I have tried that, there is no movement on any of them... All holes are the size of the machine screws, no not even a fraction of an inch in movement...

[wolftalk]

hard to tell what's hitting where ....

the back side of the hopper looks right - the base plate notch is shallower than the notch in the rear hopper frame bracket.

the idea is the base plate should hit the beau socket mounting bracket and stop the hopper before the two beau plugs bodies touch each other.  If the plugs can hit, they will eventually crack.

I guess the question then is ... how much of a gap between the plug bodies should there be when the hopper is installed?  I don't have a machine with a new style hopper handy to check, but on a 929 with an old style hopper, the answer is there's a tiny gap, so the gap between the plug and socket in your pic may be a bit big, but if the base plate is hitting the socket bracket, the only thing ya can do is move the socket bracket back - but that's unlikely to be the problem.  Seems more likely it's the wrong handle.

in the below pic of a 1072, the socket bracket screw in the interesting location is different - possibly for clearance.  If you remove that screw on your machine, is your problem fixed?  Notice the line across the bracket where the base plate is hitting it.

p.s. this is a great example for why high resolution pics of game internals are really useful.  I actually cropped the below image from a picture that is 3x too large to post on nlg.  If you're bored, please email as many highest possible resolution pictures of your game internals and game front to slotpics@cdyn.com and I'll make them available on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/.  Sticking files on a cloud drive and letting me know where to fetch also works.

ideal pictures are the entire sides of units and also angles so the labels can be read.  Both sides of stepper units.  If sending from a phone, make sure to send "actual size" so they don't get downsized.  Typical images there days are over 3MB.

[63mini]

 MaddMax123,

  I don't really think the handle is the issue as it would tend to put backward pressure on the hopper, not downward pressure on the hopper bowl.  I would suggest you do an experiment by removing the handle as its only two screws.  Close the door and see what happens.

 Now, what I have seen happen in the past is that the chute on the hopper bowl (circled in red) has been bent in the wrong angle and hit's the door or diverter.  This causes the downward pressure on the hopper bowl closing the switch.  Once again that chute is only two screws.  So, you could try removing it and see what happens when the door is closed. 

[MadMaxx123]

removed the handle from the hopper and it's all working....
The handle is to the front left of the hopper, while the connector is right rear... It appears pressure on the handle is causing a kind of twisting in the hopper chassis when the door is closed with the handle in place.. I did wonder if the door hinges were damaged but they look fine....
At least i know what it is.. just need to work out how to stop it...

[DavidLee]

In this situation I’ve seen bent plug pins causing this problem.
But it appears that this has been ruled out.

Inspect all beau-plug receiver sockets. No telling what could be stuck inside.
If you have a spare beau-plug, that would be the easiest way to check.

One or both sides of the beau-plugs usually float in the chassis cut out.
If they don’t it could be a binding problem.

Also, check for obstructions within the guides.
Best to remove them to be sure nothing is lodged between the upper guide and the case bottom.

Check for any wires on the left side that could be catching on interior case screws.

[Denmark]

it looks like its the wrong handle on the hopper  - remove it and see if it helps - looks like a handle from an old style hopper - that handle is longer and will not fit