LCD black screen

[haywire101]

I have a fox and hound game but the LCD screen stop working can you help or turn me to someone that can. Or where i can get Another one???

[Stayouttadabunker]

You may have an IGT Vision machine and could very well need a new invertor ballast to light up the screen.
They're nowadays beyond expected lifetime.
The Vision platform is well over 20-25 years old now.

If I were you, I'd open up the LCD unit removing the back cover plate exposing the circuit board, and place a plain jane computer jumper across JP1.
The two pins are located behind the memory sticks at JP1 on the extreme lefthand side of the circuit board.
Then turn ON the machine, turn OFF the lights in your room and shine a flashlight upwards upon the LCD panel.
If you see lettering and graphics, the invertor ballast could be burned out or the fluorescent lighting is dead.
Cheapest possible fix is to get a replacement ballast LS520A inverter board.
Here's a link...>>> 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/297613062127

[Chris-socal]

Am I wrong that there are usually two bulbs in those? If so, is it realistic for both bulbs to completely go out at exactly the same time? I seem to recall a Megatouch machine I had went dark but only on the top half. I flipped the driver (it had two wires that plugged into two connectors) and the outage moved with the connector on the driver…thankfully. I changed capacitors on the board and reflowed solder and they both lit up. Maybe I got lucky. Perhaps a different type of LCD setup.

Chris

[Stayouttadabunker]

No...you're correct Chris, in that there's two fluorescent backlighting lamps inside...the inverter board is designed to light them both up.
You have to plug both bulb harnesses into the board at each end.
The caps on these LS520a inverter boards are not what I've  ever seen.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[Chris-socal]

Right, the caps on mine didn’t look like they were from a space ship! Plus, I did touch up solder joints on the pins,  they didn’t look very good to me….that could have been the problem on mine, who knows. From an electronic standpoint that board is pretty simple. A transformer kicks up the voltage. The caps keep the line filtered. A few diodes probably make sure the line is rectified or prevent backflow of little spikes, Im not really sure. But you can certainly test the coils on the little transformers and if they have continuity you can likely blame one of the other components or a bad solder joint. Try rotating the board and see if one of the bulbs lights up.