Author Topic: IGT wild cherry 2 coin not cooperating (Read 19203 times)

knagl · « **Reply #40 on:** November 28, 2015, 02:39:59 pm »

Quote from: riothecat on November 28, 2015, 02:13:17 pm

All connections look good.

Remove the plug that goes to the motherboard and inspect it for the burn mark like is shown in the pictures of the thread I linked to in Reply #38. Then, plug it back in and try again. Sometimes just the act of removing the plug and re-seating it is enough to get the juice flowing again.

If that still doesn't make a change, please tell us exactly what is lighting up and what isn't lighting up when you have the machine on. Also, when the machine is on, are the reels "stiff", or are they just as loose in turning as they are with the machine off?

riothecat · « **Reply #41 on:** November 28, 2015, 03:39:30 pm »

Unplugged and reseated everything on motherboard. When powered on the pay glass is lit up. And the 2 flourescent light on the door are lit. Also the wheels are stiff and can feel vibrations in them. No led lights or candle light are lit.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #42 on:** November 28, 2015, 09:13:52 pm »

That white Molex coming from the power supply to the motherboard usually has a badly oxidized 2nd pin when looking at the Molex connector housing from the front of the machine.
If you pull off the connector from the motherboard and turn it around, the housing will be stained, sorta brownish in color.
That means the female pin inside wasn't grabbing the male pin very solid.

What happens is that over time the female pin weakens over time from heat...then it progressively gets weaker and weaker until there's actually micro-arcing going on inside the between the male and female pin contacting points.

Soooo...what you REALLY need to do is get a new female pin and swap it out from the Molex,...or, if micro-electronics isn't your game - a new power harness from somebody like Rudy's Steals & Deals.

Here's a little trick to see if this is true and has worked well for me for years and years.
With the power on and maybe someone watching the door display panel and LED's, pull up on the Molex by the wires and tilt it about 25 degrees to the right.
The LED's on the display should come on.
What you did was get a new connection and contact points inside that Molex on the male motherboard circuit pin and got a new ground shooting power to the display LEDs.. this verifies that the problem lies in that weakened female receiver pin in the Molex.
Of course, DON'T do this if you're not comfortable grabbing live wires.
It's always worked for me in a pinch and need to find out fast.

I haven't had a chance to read other above posts but the top fuse on the power supply oughta be checked for continuity as well.

knagl · « **Reply #43 on:** November 28, 2015, 09:35:14 pm »

Would the reels be stiff if the usual molex connector was the issue? I thought the reels would be loose if that connector was the problem?

riothecat · « **Reply #44 on:** November 29, 2015, 06:19:32 am »

Both fuses are good. No led lights, no candle lights. The reels are stiff and I have a vibration in them. The pay glass lights up and the door lights up.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #45 on:** November 29, 2015, 06:25:33 am »

Rio, I had a machine with no displays and after checking everything I knew, I just said what the hell and did a clear. The display came right on and I cleared it. Turned out the guy before me had put the ss and sp chips into the wrong spots. Chips were no good but figured the problem out. Good Luck

riothecat · « **Reply #46 on:** November 29, 2015, 07:41:20 am »

I guess I need a clear chip. And while I'm at it after I get this problem fixed is there a way to take it from 2 coin to three coin? And is the machine new enough to put a bill validator on it? So many questions and only 23 days until I need it to work. Thanks for all your help. But Lets try and at least get it running.

Shaggy · « **Reply #47 on:** November 29, 2015, 08:47:09 am »

Those are the early S+ machines. Not really adaptable to b/vs. When those had them they were mounted on the outside. If it was me, I'd stay with coins. They can be made a 3 coin machine with different chips glass etc. Probably somebody here has the stuff. Good luck.

Dave

CVslots · « **Reply #48 on:** November 29, 2015, 11:42:08 am »

Just post a Classified ad for a 3-coin Top Glass and SS chip. Strips are the same for 2-coin and 3-coin single line games. You will need to tell what size top glass you need though (9" tall, 16" tall, or Round Top).

riothecat · « **Reply #49 on:** November 30, 2015, 02:53:12 pm »

This issue resolved. There was a hidden fuse looks like aftermarket hiding behind its usual living spot. Thanks for your help. Coming soon another problem under new thread

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #50 on:** November 30, 2015, 04:09:42 pm »

Quote from: riothecat on November 30, 2015, 02:53:12 pm

This issue resolved. There was a hidden fuse looks like aftermarket hiding behind its usual living spot. Thanks for your help. Coming soon another problem under new thread

Ahhh! The ol' hidden

fuse problem!

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #51 on:** November 30, 2015, 04:13:38 pm »

Quote from: knagl on November 28, 2015, 09:35:14 pm

Would the reels be stiff if the usual molex connector was the issue? I thought the reels would be loose if that connector was the problem?

Yeah knags!

I thought

about that after I wrote my long document on the motherboard power Molex...

That's why I added "check the fuses" at the end of my post!

Of course, from the picture he posted, we couldn't see his power supply fuse panel with the hopper in the way!!!

LOL

riothecat · « **Reply #52 on:** November 30, 2015, 05:43:33 pm »

Yes. I saw 2 fuses number 2 and 3 but 1 was just a hole. But stuck my fat head back there and saw another fuse holder and checked the fuse and blow and behold. Thanks for all the help. But suddenly it has a no coin error and I've taken it out sprayed it with wd40 and nothing it spins but no coins come out. I'll work on that tomorrow and see what's happens. Thanks again.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #53 on:** November 30, 2015, 05:47:54 pm »

Do you mean a 3100? Open and close the door and it should clear unless you needed to pay out. In that case you need to feed it until it is done.

riothecat · « **Reply #54 on:** November 30, 2015, 06:45:38 pm »

It's full of quarters. It just won't spit them out.

Shaggy · « **Reply #55 on:** November 30, 2015, 07:05:13 pm »

Is this is a 3100 error? You may need to check if there is a quarter stuck under the knife or the shelf etc. Dump the quarters out and check for something stuck anywhere.

riothecat · « **Reply #56 on:** November 30, 2015, 07:15:26 pm »

I've done that. Took it all out... Took the plastic knife off... Sprayed wd40..: it just doesn't spit coins out. Maybe time for a new hopper.

Shaggy · « **Reply #57 on:** November 30, 2015, 07:40:59 pm »

You mean it spins by hand? If that is so, maybe check for electricity at the plug. If it is spinning by itself, there is something causing the coins not to come out. Don't spend any money until this is figured out.

Dave

riothecat · « **Reply #58 on:** November 30, 2015, 08:06:08 pm »

I hear it spinning. But it does not spit out coins. I Can hear it spinning... It spins for several seconds stops spins for a second and stops and goes to error code. Open the door and same thing.

knagl · « **Reply #59 on:** November 30, 2015, 11:21:06 pm »

Quote from: riothecat on November 30, 2015, 08:06:08 pm

I hear it spinning. But it does not spit out coins. I Can hear it spinning... It spins for several seconds stops spins for a second and stops and goes to error code. Open the door and same thing.

Your hopper knife is either mis-aligned or the tip is broken enough that it's not lifting the coins off of the shelf wheel. Pull the hopper out and give us a few good pictures of the thing and we might be able to see what the issue is.

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Author Topic: IGT wild cherry 2 coin not cooperating (Read 19203 times)