IGT S+ lights up but LED doesn’t (update: Did set15, DBV mostly works!!)

[jay]

You can wipe up the excess goo.
As long as your handle works I wouldn’t fret about it.
I had a sticky handle - post goo. It would go down and kind of lock in place.
When I would play the machine I could move the handle 1/4 of an inch and it would trigger the reels but would not return to the upright position. I could put my hand in there, wiggle the handle and manually move the lock ratchet and it would go up - until the next time I pulled it down. (Rinse and repeat).

My fix was that I used a liquid graphite spray that I use on my extendable trailer legs. Unlike wd40 or other grease it doesn’t collect grime ( in my case road dust and sand) it’s really made for locks but it certainly has its applications. I have not had an issue since.

Just one note about the spray is that it is like using black spray paint and gets over everything so you if it doesn’t come with a stray like Wd40 you might want to spray through an old toilet paper roll just to ensure your not spraying over everything.

The correct fix is to remove the arm and clean up all the gunk out of there and replace the seal - but pulling the arm off and dealing with all the gucky mechanical parts was not something I wanted to do.
You can search the forum here and a few members have done the job and it’s well documented.

[Kfrankie]

Thanks.  For what it’s worth, I don’t think any additional goop has leaked out since probably the first day I got the crank working after I fixed the fuse for the LED display, and was able to work through the programming.  Maybe it just needed to belch once after sitting unused without a battery for a who knows how many years.

[Kfrankie]

I am presently camping at Waterfoul lake in Banff National park and just working off of my phone via vi Starlink. I will fire up the computer tomorrow and do a search for a burner. Many of our other members are more technical than I and have wider experience with burners and might want to jump in here with their recommendations.

Hello Jay- May have been listening to in the shuffle here, but do you have a link to a recommendation for an eeprom writer/programmer for copying of reel chips, SET chips, and game chips? There’s a few on eBay, but want to make sure I don’t order something I can’t use.  Thanks again, as always!!

[rickhunter]

I have been using a GQ-4X for all my S+ and S2000 stuff.

[jay]

The 27c256 or 27c512 chips are 28pin chips. The chips themselves are fairly old. Most programmers you buy today have a 32-40 pin socket and can support these.
My programmer is a TOP2005 and uses USB 1.1 - its also old and supports a 40 pin chip as well.
If I was going to buy a new one today I would probably go with one of the GQ programmers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123541422328

One of the features you will appreciate is that most of the programmers use a ZIF socket. ZIF=Zero Insertion Force. Basically you drop the chip in, pull back a little lever and it holds the pins. When your done you simply release the leaver and the chip is free.

Speaking of ZIF - Since you appear to detest pulling chips. You can buy 28pin zif sockets. They are meant to be soldered to a PCB board but if your cut the pins short you can insert them ontop of your existing game/reel chip sockets and then you will be easily be able to pop the chip in and out with no force needed.

The latest greatest programmers which would probably exceed the cost of your slot use USB 3.0 and unless you have a realatively new computer you likely don't have a USB3.0 port to begin with on your PC so you don't need anything like that.

Most of the software that comes with programmers are highly technical and the feature list is long - if your a firmware designer this matters - but to most of us playing with 40 year old hardware this rarely matters. You will be simply reading a chip and doing a Save-As - this creates a small binary file. Ie SP731.BIN which is only 256k big (or perhaps 512k depending on the chip). When you write a chip - You will do a file-Open, find the file on your PC and choose the Write or Burn button.

A few of the nuances of Eproms:
First is that chips are written from bottom up, but read from top down.
If you have a 256k chip and a 256k file - this is not even something to worry about as you have written 256k of data and the chip is full.
However if you have a 512k chip and a 256k file when you burn the chip and pop it into your machine it won't work as the machine will read from the top of the chip which is blank, so you will need to write the chip using an offset so you start writing in the middle of the chip (and fill up the top part)
OR...... you can modify the file before hand. (dos command) Copy SP731.bin+SP371.bin Big731.bin 
This will simply take a 256k file (twice) and combine them into a single file called BIG731.bin which is now a 512k file.
You then write this to the 512k chip and it will work just fine.
Now you might ask... why not just buy the right chip size to begin with ... which is a valid point. Chips are cheaper in bulk so I will buy 16-32 chips at a time and rather than buying 3 different sizes as I have different machines if I buy the 512k ones then I can use them for all of the machines.

Secondly Eproms have a little window on the top of the chip - and after you write the chip it is best practice to create a label and put this on the chip. First off you know at a glance whats on the chip. This helps when you have a box with 200+ chips in it. But more importantly you cover this little window. To erase an Eprom (the E in the name means eraseable). EPROM = Eraseable Programable - Read only Memory. How you erase a chip is with a UV light - I have a small erase that the chip slides into but you can use an UV light from a fish tank. Not that it ususally happens but leaving a chip uncovered - perhaps by a window could wipe or corrupt the chip. It would probably take a week of exposure but if your anything like me - I work on a hoppy for 3 days, then it might sit on the dining room table for the next three months.
You can also get an EEPROM which is an Electrical - Eraseable form of the chip. My older burner doesn't support EEPROM erasing. So you might want to confirm this feature. I am pretty sure the GQ ones support this.

While I am very wordy and I write texts like a novelist, I am far from an expert in this field. I bought an eprom burner more of out necessity than from a point of knowledge. Many of our other members have far more background in this area than I do.

[Kfrankie]

So have a new Set15 key arriving on Monday, gearing up to take another shot at getting my DBV200 working. Was digging around and found this cutoff wire harnesss below the black box at the top of the first photo. This harness comes from the power supply inside the machine.  Also, the machine gives off a rhythmic tick tock type noise when I turn on the machine and the plastic gear looking wheel near the header turns a bit. After about 10 minutes the tick rock stops and it sounds like a bunch of stuff is happening.  Finally, the red tip lever in the second photo- what purpose does it serve? The cash box is lock into the back of the lower unit, so does this release the header from the cash box?   

Just trying to keep things interesting for myself around here.  If I’m posting too much, let me know. I’ll knock it off.

[jay]

The red lever holds the head in place.
You can lift that and there should be a large thumb screw at the front to remove the head.

[Kfrankie]

The red lever holds the head in place.
You can lift that and there should be a large thumb screw at the front to remove the head.

And idea about the cut wire harnesss?

[Kfrankie]

Update here--  I got my Set15 chip and went through the instructions to validate the DBV-200.  It was a bit strange because it seemed like the DBV was already enabled, so I didn't need to actually change any settings. Bottom line is that the thing is now accepting a $1.00 bill all the way in, it sits for about 2-3 three seconds, then spits it back out. Same for  a $5.00 bill.  I then took a look at the DBV-200 manual section relating to the DBV DIP switches. The manual indicates that I need to have switches 7-10 from set #1 all OFF for it to accept currency. So I took a look, and it appeared that #9 and #10 were ON, so "tried" to switch those to OFF. Honestly, the DIP switches are so small on this thing I think I need a microscope. Anyways, didn't work. So I disconnected a few of connectors going to the head to try to remove it so I could inspect/clean it, but still couldn't seem to get it out. Plugged the wires back in again, now the unit is just clicking as if I had never run the set 15 chip. Feels a bit like a wild goose chase here, but not ready to give up.  I've attached a photo of the DBV DIP switches from the unit.

Update: LIFE!!! Did another reset, made sure everything was properly set to 9....1, $.25 denomination, pressed in the test button until it beeped per the instructions, Turned off and reinstalled the game chip, clear the 61 to 61...1, then cleared out the 61....1.  Game accepts coins, DBV was just clicking like a grandfather clock. Checked the bottom cash box and made sure it was pressed in all the way.  Also made sure the red lever for the bill acceptor ed was in the up position. Magically it took a one dollar bill and then spit 4/4 out at me. Wouldn’t take another dollar bill at all. Wouldn’t take a five dollar bill. But then took a $10 bill no problem after I push the credit button it gave me 40 credits. Also took a $20 bill. So it’s working some of the time on some of the bills, but not all of the bills all the time. Good enough for me, just wanted to know that it’s working.

[jay]

Good to know, that its working.
Its normal for the machine to click, creak and groan as the validator does its self test after being turned on.
You can change the cash/credit default settings (normal selftest settings - no chip required) so it won't spit coins at you. Aka you set it to credit mode.

You can open and clean the bill head just make sure your doing it with a qtip and water ONLY, no windex, alcohol etc.
Check out your money to see what series it is. $1 have the greatest acceptance.
Older bills will work better. Is there any sticker on the ROM chip that you can see when the head is removed.
If so what version is it ?

Per the set chip. I am in Canada, however I have US bill validators. Not updated by any stretch of the imagination.
I have my validator SET to .01 so I get a 100 credits for a dollar, and 500 for a $5. I have a couple of the older bills around so i can put on a bunch of credits in a pinch.
All my denomination stickers say 0.25 but I run them off of tokens. I roll my tokens.
I found that when I left a bucket of coins next to the machine - someone would take a couple, play a couple and walk away.
Give them a coin cup and a roll - they will crack the roll run through the quarters and then come back with the coin cup looking for more.

I also set my hopper limit to 100 as I don't want to be filling my machines at parties. People can still have big wins but when they hit the cash button it is just easier to turn the jackpot reset key and be done with it. Some people pull the wire off the cash button so the machine never pays out coins.

[Kfrankie]

Jay-  it sounds like you throw some wild parties up there. Thanks again for all the help.

[Chris-socal]

Thats where that old $5 bill went! We were looking for it! LOL
I have the missing Canadian dime!

Chris

[Kfrankie]

So gentlemen, assuming I won’t try to install a progressive display anytime soon, the last issue I have to deal with here is the DBV. For some reason, it will not accept any $5 bills, but it readily accepts $1 bills, $10 bills, and $20 bills. I see in the manual that dip switch number two needs to be off to accept  $5 bills, what it is. Yet for some reason, it won’t take the $5s. I’ve tried multiple conditions of $5 bills, it just sucks it in and spits it right out.  Any thoughts on why this is acting like my 2nd girlfriend from college?  Thanks!

[jay]

Try flipping the $5 dip switch off and on a few times.
Could be like that GF,  it’s just a little bit dirty and a little coaxing will get the job done.

Incidentally do you have her number ? Asking for a friend.

[Kfrankie]

Can’t provide her digits because I ended up marrying her. I will monkey with the pinhead-sized DIP #2 or #3. Knock the dust off a bit.